Staying with friends for our first three days in southern England was like a dream. It gave us time to overcome jet lag and warm up to the journey ahead of us. They led us on local roads, taking in all the interesting sights, so we didn't have to plan our meals, check route markings, or worry about getting stranded due to mishaps. Once on our own though, we learned a lot about how to prepare for the day's travels.

Even though we had a map for each day's travel plan, there was no way to know in advance what services were available in each small town along the way. Selecting the best cycling routes meant eliminating food and service conveniences of larger towns along the busier roadways. Food is served in pubs, which are open for a short lunch period if open at all. Many of the pubs only open (for food service) after 6:30 PM. This is a holdover from the WWII days we were told. Laws banning the pubs from operating early have been relaxed, but the tradition is still kept. When we found a pub open for lunch, we ate, whether we were hungry or not. They were also one of the few restroom stops available. We learned to stock up on snack foods.

For a country that promotes bicycling, we were surprised to see so few bicycle shops. Halfway through our journey, we had our first puncture (flat) about a mile outside a planned overnight stop. It could be patched, but the tire was ruined. Since we were self-supported, I did carry more tools than usual, which were specific to our CoMotion Cappuccino tandem. Not among the 3 stone (42 pounds) of stuff was a spare tire. I began muttering an English phrase I'd overheard—"Oh, you stupid boy."

The lack of bike shops became more than a casual observation when we really needed one. Auto parts stores are the only other resource for bike parts. And, just as in the USA, the selection favors ATB bicycles. So we purchased the ONLY 700C tire in the store which lasted the remainder of the trip. It was a 25C versus the 28C tire of choice. There were NO tubes with a presta valve to purchase to replace our patched one.

Some towns have Tourist Information offices which are marked on maps as TI's. We did not find them helpful for bicycling information. They operate mostly from 9 am to 4 or 5 pm and are staffed by volunteers. The TI's have pamphlets for nearby attractions and small souvenirs for sale. When we tried asking specific route questions, the dear ladies couldn't help us much.

The routes we selected between towns were mostly rural which included grazing areas for cattle and sheep. The roadways often had "cattle grates" across the full width to keep the stock within bounds. There were varying types of open grate materials: round pipes; flat stock (or I-beam); and bars that looked like miniature railroad rails. At first, I confidently rode over them as long as I could take them at a 90º angle. On closer inspection though, they looked more hazardous due to sharp breaks on some edges and other wear signs. The pounding they give on a fully loaded tandem rear tire may have explained the ruined tire we experienced. We walked them on the second half of our trip. Oh well, you can't have too many bum (butt) breaks can you?

Out of fear of being delayed while passing through Customs Inspections, we took no over-the-counter drugs in or out of the UK. Anything we needed, such as Ibuprofen or antihistamines, was readily available. Brand names though are different. We had to consult with a chemist (pharmacist) to verify what we needed.

Our English friends warned us that accommodations are "more primitive" in the UK. They were right. B&B's and even hotels have small cramped spaces. For a country with a Monarch, we never found a Queen or Kingsize bed available. Showers were a luxury and most of those we used were electrically operated (some contained an adjunct heater and/or a step-up water pressure pump). Imagine stepping under a spray of water after you press an electric switch to operate it. Just a little intimidating. Bath tubs were more typical and sinks with twin taps (faucets) and stoppers were the norm. One feature we began to rely on was the flat-against-the-wall room heaters. Some were tricky to control or turn on, but they were all great for drying out our daily washed clothing. When we didn't stay with tandem friendly couples, our criteria for a hotel or B&B became: "Do you have a vacancy? Can you store a tandem? Do you have a shower? Most times we settled for two out of three.

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