Welcome To My Model Car And Hobby Site!!!

My 351 Cleveland And Mustang GT Web Sites

NEWS UPDATES

$45.00 each

8/15/2000

The Millenium edition 1988 Ford Mustang GT model by ERTL is out!   These are LIMITED production units so good luck finding them in stores.  I have some for sale at $45.00 each shipped so if interested E-mail me.  Canadian orders accepted with United States International Postal Money Order payment or equivalent drafted on a US bank.

7/12/2000

I have some GREAT news for all of you Fox Mustang fans like me.  I just got word a few days ago that ERTL is going to run the 1988 Mustang GT hatchback model again.  Release date is sometime in August.  Ill will try to keep posted any news I come across.

10/17/99

I found a STALLION today at the local model shop.  Take a look.  It has the 5.4 that is blown complete with the IRS setup.

9/23/98

Revell/Monogram Has FINALLY Issued Another Fox Chassie Mustang Model.  BUT!!!  This Time It Is A Hatchback Car.  One Of The Nice Things About It Is That Its A 93 Cobra Hatchback Car!

Brief Introduction

I Have Been Building Model Cars For A Few Years Now.  To Me, It Is Relaxing And Rewarding When I Work On A Model Because I Get The Satisfaction Knowing That I Built It And Customized It To My Preferences.  It Sometimes Can Be Compared To Working On A Real Automobile Because Some Assemblies Are Very Complicated Or Are Hard To Detail.  

Im Not As Good As The Professional Model Builder But Then Again, Who Is?  I Try My Best And Most Of The Time It Works Out.  Sometimes Though, It Bombs BIG TIME!  

My Favorite Models To Build Consist Mostly Of Ford Mustangs And Also Include Many Other Muscle Cars From The 1960's And 70's And Some Of The Street Terrors Of The 80's.

I Will Attempt To Show You Some Tricks I Have Learned And Let You Know About Special Additions To Kits I Run Across Like Special Aftermarket Spoilers, Wheels, Stereo Equipment, Hoods, And Other Car Parts.  I Will Also Tell You How To Make Cowl Induction Hoods For You Models Similar To The One On My 1988 Mustang GT Shown On My Home Page.  Making Parts On Your Own If Your Kits Don't Come With Them Is Just Another Part Of The Fun Of Modeling.

Here Are A Few Of The Models I Have Built Since I Started.  Many I Still Have And A Few I Have Scrapped.

My 88 GT made from a '79 Mustang Cobra with a sunroof.





Here Are Some Specialty Aftermarket Parts And Accessories The Manufacturers Put In Some Of The Models I Have Built.

This Saleen Spoiler Comes In The 91 Mustang GT Convertible Kit But Is Not In The 92 Mustang GT Convertible Kit.  Its A Very Handy Custom Part For Us 5.0 Owners And Modelers.

Here Are Some Of The Latest Additions To My Collection.

My Pride And Joy!!!  After More Than 10 years Searching For These Two Models, I Found Them.  Thanks To Paul Garnand Of  Garnand Sales For Selling Them To Me In Such Great Shape And A HUGE Thanks To My Fiance Sandi For Buying Them For My Birthday.  

The Pictures Do Not Reflect The Condition Of The Boxes.  You Try To Scan Boxes This Small With A Hand Held Scanner And See How The Pics Come Out. :))

A Semi-Rare 1988 Mustang GT Model.

A Semi-Rare 1987 Mustang GT Model.

This Is The New 93 Cobra Mustang From Revell/Monogram I Just Purchased.

Build Your Own Cowl Induction Hood

This Is A Custom Part I Tried And Tried To Duplicate With Other Plastic Parts From Other Models.  Unless You Can Somehow Magically Bend Plastic And Shape It Without Breaking It Or Melting It, You Should Try This.

Get Some Cardboard, Preferably From The Models Box Your Using, And Cut Out A Square A Bit Bigger Than The Hood Your Trying To Customize.  You Will Then Need To Decide How Wide The Cowl Part Of The Hood Will Be At The Front Of The Hood And The Rear And How High In The Back You Want It To Be Raised.  You Can Take The Hood And Measure Off However Wide You Want It.  These Drawings Illustrate The Actual Measurements For A Hood I Built.  I Chose To Use The Slightly Raised Part Of The Original Hood As The Template To Start With. 

Now, Cut The Cowl Out Of The Cardboard.  Try To Do This Without Tearing Off Any Pieces So The Edges Will Be Smooth.   Don't Worry If The Front Part Of The Cowl Is Thick, You Will Sand It Down Later After It Is Glued To The Hood.

Take The Cut Out And Run Down The Crease Lines With A Razor Blade Or Exacto Knife But Make SURE You Don't Cut All The Way Through The Cardboard.  Take The Sides Of The Cowl And Fold Them Inward To Make The Sides Of The Cowl.  You Can Now Remove Some Of The Excess Layers Of The Cardboard Carefully If You Choose.  Check The Cowl For Fit And Trim As Needed.

After Fitting It To Your Liking, Get Your Super Glue And Attach The Cowl To The Hood At All 4 Corners And In The  Middle Of The Sides.  Your Best Bet May Be To Run Glue All The Way Around If Your Hood Is Curved Like The Mustangs Is.  While The Glue Is Setting Up, Make Sure The Cowl Is Straight On The Hood And Is Evenly Adjusted So It Is Not Shifted To One Side.

After The Glue Has Dried, Gradually Spread Additional Glue All Over The Cowl So It Will Soak Into The Cardboard Real Good.  Do Not Add Too Much Or It Will Run Everywhere.  Soaking The Cardboard Will Stiffen It So It Won't Bend Out Of Shape If You Decide To Remove The Hood And Also Keep Any Paint From Soaking Into The Cardboard And Ruining Your Paint Job.  

After The Glue Has Completely Dried, You Can Sand The Cowl To Your Liking.  If The Edges Where The Cowl Meets The Hood Are Rough Or Have Divots In Them, You Can Use More Glue To Fill Them In To Blend Them Together.  The Front Of The Cowl Can Be Blended By Sanding The Cardboard Down To The Plastic.  Any Edge Left Over There Can Be Filled In With Glue And Then Sanded Smooth.  This Is A Lot Like Filling In Dents In Your Actual Car With Bondo And Sanding Them Smooth.

Sand, Glue, Sand, Glue..... Is The Best Way To Get It Right.  I Have Been Able To Get The Cardboard Just As Smooth As The Plastic Hood Was Before I Began.

Modelers Have Been Here!

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