TROUBLESHOOTING & TIPS
Floormat + Jammed Gas Pedal = HOLY
****!!!!
Here is a picture of the clip you should be able to find in Wal-farts RV section. You get 2 per package.
Clip 2 of these to your floormat on the drivers side where you want them located. Put the floormat in the car where you want it and note where the clips are resting on the carpet. Cut 2 small slits in the carpet and clip the clips in it.
You now have a stable floormat and a predictable gas pedal.
Oil In Intake Fix.
Guys, I came up with this nifty idea and refined it on my brothers GT. These
are pictures of mine but my brothers I made a little different. Ill get pictures
next time I go to look at the car.
This will pretty much stop the oil from sucking up into the throttle body and coating the upper and lower intake. You will see a definate difference. Many times the problem is amplified when you install roller rocker arms. To do so you must remove the oil baffel and this allows slosh and vapor to rise.
You buy:
1: a replacement oil cap
2: 1 foot each of 3/8 and 5/8 hose
3: a plug for the oil fill extension port to the throttle body
4: an elbow from the HELP! section at your
5: a grommet from the HELP! section at your local parts store.
This one hose is 2 hoses combined. The small is a 3/8 crammed into a 5/8 hose and jammed.
The cap has been drilled all the way through in the center of the top and the hole opened up to fit the elbow into. On my brothers I opened it up much more and inserted a grommet into the hole.
The elbow in the picture has the nipple ground off so it would fit tight in the ground out hole. On my brothers I left the nipple on the elbow so it would go into the grommet and form a tight seal. Also, I glued the two piece cap together eliminating the twist adjustment.
Possible Fuel Problem
Fix.
(gas tank sucks air in when gas cap is removed)
When you go to fill up at the gas station and you start untwisting your fuel
cap, do you hear a big suction noise as you unscrew it? Does your Mustang
run fine at first then feel as if it is starving for fuel later down the
road?
If so you may have a problem with the canister purge valve or the rubber hose that runs from the fuel tank to the charcoal canister.
The fuel pump, as it operates, pulls fuel from the tank and sends it to the engine. This pull causes a suction or vaccum in the tank which if not relieved trys to pull the fuel back into the tank. This will cause a lean condition and will make the engine cut out and even die while you are driving since fuel is barely reaching the engine if at all.
Normally, the suction is used to pull fumes from the charcoal canister when the canister purge valve opens while your driving in turn lowering emissions. This valve can go out like with many other components of a vehicle.
Another problem is with the canister purge line. If not routed correctly around a part or checked for a pinch between the underbody and the tank after removing and reinstalling the fuel tank then vaccum will build up and cause this situation.
A possible result of this situation is the antislosh baffel inside of the fuel tank busting loose and making a loud clunking sound when turning or driving over bumps. Vaccum, builds up causing the tank to slightly implode and busts the small spot welds loose that holds the baffel.
Decoding Ford Part Numbers
Originally posted Joshua Teixeira, cleaned up by John Witherspoon :
For Example: F4DZ-2B120A -- a RH brake caliper
F means 90 (E is 80's, D is 70's, C 60's, B is 50's, A is 40's)
4 is the year within the decade that the part first was installed by Ford, so an F4 part was first used on 1994 model year cars
D is the line of car :
A is full size Ford
B is Fairlane/Torino to 76, then 77-79 LTD II, then Festiva, then Aspire
C is Mercury Capri (60's - 70's), Escort
D is Maverick, Granada, Taurus, 96 and later Taurus/Sable common parts
E is Escort
F is common Tempo/Escort parts (same parts, different body panels)
G is Mercury Montego, Monarch
H is Ford heavy truck
J is marine (boat engines, stationary power plants)
K is Tracer
L is Lincoln Mark series and regular 4-door Lincoln
M is full size Mercury for unique parts (otherwise, use A)
N is Ford tractor
O is Mercury Montego, Sable, and Lincoln Continental
P is Bobcat and Pinto
R is Merkur, then Contour/Mystyque
S is T-bird
T is light truck, Bronco, Explorer
U is Econoline can
V is Lincoln Town car
W is Cougar
X is Villager
Y is Lincoln or Mercury/Lincoln non-vehicle-specific part
Z is Mustang or Ford non-vehicle-specific part
2 is Probe
3 is Tempo
4 is 96+ Sable body parts
6 is Topaz
7 is Ranger
8 is Windstar
9 is Aerostar
-2B120 is the basic part # and is the number for the caliper. If part of a pair, then the lower number is the right hand side (i.e. 120 is right, and 121 is left). The only exception is power window motors for only one car. Series means the 1000, 1001, .... 1999, 1A001, to 1Z999 where every basic part number is a unique part on a car, and the same part 'name' for a different car is differentiated by the prefix.
1000-2000 series are wheels and brakes
3000 series are front suspension and steering
4000 series are rear axle and drive axle
5000 series are frames front stabilizer and rear suspension
6000 series are engine parts
7000 series are MTX transmission and clutch, A7000 series are ATX transmission
8000 series are cooling and grille
9000 series are fuel
9500 series are carburator
10300 series and up are generator, alternator, starter, distributor
13000 series and up are lamps, wiring, and electrical except for 10300 series
16000 series and up are fenders and hood
17000 series and up are speedometer and associated parts
17500 series and up are bumpers, jack, mirrors, washer/wipers, speedo cables
18000 series and up are air conditioning, heaters and radios
00000 series are body front (door posts and ahead and floor pans) including
instrument panel and dash, but not gauges
23000 series and up are body sheet metal and exterior rubber bits
40000 series and up are back half of the car (trunk, roof racks, T-roof etc)
50000 series and up are exterior mouldings, emblems, and nameplates
60000 series and up are seats
70000 series and up are doors, windows, (not windshield), seat trim/covers
Japanese weird parts use 2-piece Mazda part numbers
Note that if your '96 car has a part number such as F4DZ-2B120A, then you know the part was first used on '94 cars, was installed on '95s and is still being used unchanged on '96s. Part #'s are not necessarily the same.
Bushing Removal Tool And
Instructions
This should work if if there are any slight sholders in the mount where the bushing is pressed in.
Lower the rear as far down as it will go.
Go buy a piece of pipe just bigger than the bushing so it will fit over it. Cut it where its a little bit longer than the bushing itself but THE CUT MUST BE STRAIGHT. Exhaust pipe or stronger pipe will do.
Go buy some awl thread or a long bolt the same size as the hole in the bushings. Also get 3 nuts to fit the bolt or thread and 2 washers that are smaller than the diameter of the bushing.
Get a 3X3 piece of iron or metal plate and drill a hole in the center just bigger than the awl thread or bolt your using.
Assembly....
Take the awl thread and put it in the bushing hole. Put a washer and two nuts on the end opposite of the way the bushing is comming out. Turn the two nuts against each other to create a JAM where they won't back off under turning pressure. If you have a long bolt, place a washer on the bolt and put it in the end opposite the way the bushing is coming out. Take your pipe and place it over the thread making sure it is not resting on the bushing but on the bushing mount. Take youe 3X3 plate metal and place it on the thread next. Now add another washer then the other nut and run the nut down till it is all tight.
Now, take a wrench and tighten down on the single nut while holding the innermost nut on the rear still.
The pressed bushing should come out or at least the rubber part. You can chisel the shell out UNLESS you have the ENERGY SUSPENSION shelless bushings. Then all you must do is grease the polyurithane bushing up and force it into the old shell.
Installing the new bushing with shells you should be able to use the same trick but with another 3x3 piece of plate added to the other end without a plate. Just reverse the tool you made and it should pull the bushing in. Just make sure you note the spacing between the old bushing's shell ridge and the mount and duplicate it with the new bushings.
And you also have a new tool to add to your collection.
Modification suggestions welcome....