Build Your Own Incubator

Constructing a Plywood Incubator¹

The following materials are needed (see Figures 1and 2):

•Three 16" × 1" × 2" boards.
•Two 14 1/2" × 1" × 2" boards.
•Four 9 1/2" × 1" × 2" boards.
•Two 1 1/2" hinges.
•Two screen door hooks and eyes.
•One sheet of 1/2" plywood.
•Plate glass for top.
•Cake pan for water.
•1/4" mesh welded hardware cloth.
•Heating unit (either a commercial unit or porcelain socket and light bulbs).
•Masking tape or duct tape for protecting the glass edges.
•Scrap tin or other metal for vent covers.
•Wood screws and nails.

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Figure 1. Exploded view of a plywood incubator. Note the tin vent covers for humidity and temperature control. Glass viewing top is sealed on all sides with masking tape.

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Figure 2. Side view of the plywood box incubator shown in Figure 1.

¹Courtesy of John Bezpa, Rutgers University.

Build a Stryofoam Incubator

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The following paragraphs and illustrations are designed to guide the reader through the construction of a small, inexpensive incubator made from a styrofoam ice chest. A minimum number of hand tools are required and include a sharp knife, screwdriver, metal shears, and a pair of pliers. Gather all equipment and supplies listed below together before starting construction. The construction should take no longer than about two hours.

List of Materials

Styrofoam ice chest (12-16" x 20-24" x 12"-15")

Heating cable

Micro-switch assembly (thermostat)

Glass (approx. 10"x14")

¼" welded wire - hardware cloth (24"x36")

Cake tin (9"x14"x1½")

Thermometer

Masking tape

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Begin construction on the platform for the eggs. Cut the welded wire or hardware cloth so it is six inches wider than the inside bottom of the ice chest. Cut a three-inch square from each corner and bend the projecting pieces at right angles to form legs for the platform. Remove any rough edges and cover the cut edges with tape. Install the cake pan and the platform in the bottom of the chest. (Step 1)

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Then install the heating element and micro-switch assembly. Protect the styrofoam sides from the heating element by placing masking tape or similar material around the interior of the chest. Place one strip of tape 2½-inches from the top. One strip is located one inch above the platform, and another strip is placed midway between the top and bottom strips.

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Position the micro-switch assembly on one of the end walls so the center hole is about five inches below the top of the chest. With a pencil or other sharp pointed tool, make three holes in the chest for the temperature control bolt and two mounting bolts. Mount the switch by inserting the mounting bolt, add the washers, and tighten the nuts until the unit is firmly attached (Step 2). Insert the heating cable plug and the pilot light into the switch assembly before plugging in the lead cord. Check the unit to see if the pilot light glows and the heating cable warms up when the switch is activated. Both should be off when the switch is turned off. After checking the unit, remove the lead cord from the electrical outlet.

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Position the micro-switch assembly on one of the end walls so the center hole is about five inches below the top of the chest. With a pencil or other sharp pointed tool, make three holes in the chest for the temperature control bolt and two mounting bolts. Mount the switch by inserting the mounting bolt, add the washers, and tighten the nuts until the unit is firmly attached (Step 2). Insert the heating cable plug and the pilot light into the switch assembly before plugging in the lead cord. Check the unit to see if the pilot light glows and the heating cable warms up when the switch is activated. Both should be off when the switch is turned off. After checking the unit, remove the lead cord from the electrical outlet.

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A window may be installed in the lid of the chest so you can see the eggs and chicks as they hatch. Center the piece of glass on the top of the lid and trace its outline with a marker. Remove the glass and draw a smaller rectangle inside the first with all sides parallel and 3/4 inch inside the traced glass rectangle. With a sharp knife, cleanly cut out the smaller rectangle and discard it. Then carefully cut around the outline of the glass on top of the lid to a depth of only one-fourth inch. Do not cut through the top.

On the cut edge made when the rectangle was removed, mark a line ¼-inch from the top of the lid. With a sharp knife or razor, cut along the line until it meets with the cut made earlier. The strip should lift out easily to form a recessed ridge around the rectangular hole (Step 4). Place the glass in the recessed area and secure it with tape.

Proper ventilation is provided by sixteen ¼-inch holes in the sides of the chest. Make the holes with a pencil or other sharp instrument. On each of the large sides of the chest, make a row of four holes two-inches from the bottom, and another row of four holes located three-inches from the top. The holes in each row should be four-inches apart.


Test the incubator by placing a shallow layer of warm water (100oF.) in the pan. Place the thermometer on the wire platform, put the lid on the chest, and plug in the lead cord. Turn the temperature control bolt until the pilot light goes on. Frequently readjust the control bolt until the desired temperature is reached. The pilot light and heating cable should shut off. Allow the unit to operate several hours before placing the eggs in it. This allows time to see how well the unit maintains a constant temperature.

This construction plan can be found in MCES Publication 1150, Avian Embryo by Dr. Tom W. Smith, Jr.

A Bigger Plywood Incubator with Egg Turner

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The following illustrations are designed to guide the reader through the construction of a small plywood and glass incubator that will accomodate about 100 chicken eggs. Basic woodworking tools are required required for construction. Gather all equipment and supplies listed below together before starting construction. The diagrams shown will guide the construction of the unit. Printed diagrams are shown in MCES Publication 1150, Avian Embryo that is available through your local County Agent Office.



Bill of Materials

1 pc 1/2"x4'x6' A-C Exterior Plywood
5 pcs 3/8"x3/4"x8' Pine
1 pc 3/4"x1½"x13' Pine
1 pc 3/4"x3¼"x4' Pine
1 pc 1/2"x3/4"x8' Pine
1 pc 1/2"x18"x27" rigid insulation board
1 pc 18"x27" heavy duty aluminum foil
1 pc 1/2"x30" semi-rigid plastic pipe
4 pcs 10"x20" single strength window glass
4 pcs 10"x14" single strength window glass
2 1½" roundwooden drawer pulls
2 metal drawer pulls (cup type)
2 2" hooks with eyes
1 pc 8' felt weatherstripping 1/4"x1/2"
1 pc 20"x27" - ¼" hardware cloth
2 vent covers - sheet metal
1 incubator electrification kit *
1 attachment plug
2' No. 18-2 flexible service cord
1 duplex outlet for surface mounting
10 small porcelain knobs for heating element
1 pr 4"x1" flat hinges
1 water pan - minimum 360 sq. in.
1 pc 1/8"x16½' steel rod
1 pc 3/16"x8' steel rod

Assorted nails and screws
Waterproof wood glue



*electrification kit composed of wafer thermostat with duplex outlet, pilot light, service cord, and 160-watt flexible glass-covered heating element.

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EGG and HATCHING INFORMATION
[Sanitizing Eggs] [Turn the Large End Up!] [Testing Eggs] [Care and Incubation]
[Troubleshooting Incubation Problems]

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