Veiled Chameleon Care Sheet

Veiled Chameleons

Description:
(Chameleo calyptratus) Veiled chameleons are arguably the most exquisite of the chameleons. Their potential size can range anywhere from 14 - 20 inches in adult males and 12 - 16 inches in adult females. Veiled chameleons in the wild can grow slightly larger. Some males have been recorded to reach lengths of 24 inches in their native lands. These chameleons sport an outstandingly high casque ("helmet" or "crown" as many say). The males casque can grow up to 2 inches high, while the females' do not get quite as high. The coloration on these chameleons can range from extraordinary splashes and patterns of turquoise, neon green and blues, tints of reds, oranges, yellows and browns, to dull overall colors of pale green, brown and sometimes black.

Introduction:
There are arguments whether Veiled chameleons come from the rare lush green forests of southwestern Saudi Arabia and Yemen or the more abundant barren dry desert of this same region. As you will see suggested later, a combination of dry and wet, humid conditions allow Veiled chameleons to benefit from the environment when they feel it is needed and when provided. The scientific name "Calyptratus" translates to "with a casque; with a
helmet" (calyptra). (thanks to Ingo Kober for this information) Hence the tall casque sported on both males and shorter ones on females.

Above: The red shows the general area
where Veiled chameleons inhabit.

Temperature:
Veiled chameleons, coming from Saudi Arabia and Yemen, need hot temperatures. Temperatures from 80º to 85º with a 90º to 95º basking spot is a perfect range for them. Veiled chameleons are very hardy chameleons that can withstand a large range of temperatures. They have been known to survive short periods of freezing temperatures, but these cold of temperatures are not recommended as chameleon's well-being can drop very rapidly if tipped by a single factor. At night, it is necessary for them to get a 10º to 15º drop at night. This allows better resting, digestion of food, and simulates their natural temperature as in there habitat, along with everywhere else, temperatures drop significantly at night.

Lighting:
Lighting is very important for Veileds as is for all chameleons. Veileds should be provided with a UVA/UVB producing light source and a basking light. UVA and UVB exposure allow chameleons to synthesize vitamin D3 into their skin. The synthesis of vitamin D3 allows the absorption of calcium which is absolutely necessary for all chameleons. This will be explained further later on. The recommended light to provide UVBA/UVB exposure would be ZooMed's ReptiSun 5.0. There are many companies that state their lights give off UVB and UVA, but ZooMed's have been proven to give the most exposure. Avoid incandescent lights for UV light, as they do not produce any. Incandescent lights, though, are great for basking lights. I have found what works for me the best, is a 100 Watt bulb in a reflector shield bulb fixture. These reflector shields can be found at most small and large pet shops and range from $10 for a smaller sized reflector shield, to $40 for a larger sized one. The light fixture should not be placed inside the cage or anywhere close where the chameleon can easily access to it, leading to potentially fatal burns. Placing the fixture 6 - 12 inches away from the cage should allow the heat and light to protrude through the top or side of the cage providing as an excellent way to allow your chameleon regulate his own body temperature.

Food and Nutrition:
Veiled chameleons, when young, should be fed as much as they will eat. As they get older they should be given a stationary diet (large crickets, large mealworms or superworms, waxworms, cockroaches, slugs, snails, earthworms ect.). It is important that you limit the amount of food you feed an adult chameleon. Allowing a chameleon to gorge itself, will result in a very obese and unhealthy chameleon. When they are young they will devour anywhere from 6 to 20 pinhead cricket sized insects daily. When they grow up to adults, they will eat about 5-15 full grown medium to large sized insects. Note: Insects should be gut loaded, which is providing many choices of fruits and/or vegetables so that the insects get the nutrients from the veggies and fruits. (Try to avoid: lettuce as this is very low in nutrients. Also avoid: broccoli as this contains an acid that is unhealthy for chameleons) The plant matter you give your insects should be changed and replaced by fresh ones daily. Giving the insects about 24 hours to eat the fruits and veggies you provide should ensure well fed and nutrition loaded insects. Also many adult Veileds will even take pinkies. Pinkies are hairless, pink colored, newborn mice. If a Veiled enjoys the pinkies, they should only be given on occasion as they are very high in fat. On top of feeding your chameleon insects, it should also be given a supplement of vitamins. Make sure that the vitamin supplement contains Calcium and Vitamin D3! Vitamin D3 allows the absorption of Calcium into the chameleon's body which ensures strong bones, reducing the risk of MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) and a stronger, healthier chameleon. Calcium is a necessity for all chameleons. Also the supplement should have very little vitamin A. If it has, I'd say, more than 5% vitamin A, get a different supplement. Chameleons get enough vitamin A through the food they eat. A vitamin supplement with no vitamin A and no Phosphorus is the best. A recommended vitamin supplement that has the correct concentration of all the necessary vitamins including vitamin D3 and Calcium is Miner-All.

Recommended list for adult and juvenile Veileds: large crickets, mealworms (feed sparingly), superworms, waxworms (feed sparingly), cockroaches, walking sticks, mantids, beetles, earthworms, and anything else you can find that is about the size of an adult cricket. Anything too small, your chameleon may just ignore it. Make sure if you collect anything from outside, you are sure the area is insecticide free!

Recommended list for baby Veileds: 2 week - 1 month old crickets (pinhead crickets), small mealworms (feed sparingly), young waxworms (feed sparingly), fruit flies, flightless or wingless fruit flies and anything else you can find that is about the size of a pinhead cricket. Anything too large, your baby chameleon may not be able to swallow the whole insect and a risk of suffocation. Make sure if you collect anything from outside, you are sure the area is insecticide free!

Watering
There are many watering techniques that you could use for your Veiled chameleon, but they will never and should never drink from standing water. To provide water to your chameleons, you could spray their cage or rig up a misting system. You may purchase an automatic misting system from Creative Aquatics & Pets. If you use a handheld spray bottle, spray the chameleon heavily and continuously for about 2-3 minutes 1-3 times a day. If you decide on a misting system, allow it to run for about 5-10 minutes for about 1-3 times daily. Misting the chameleon will simulate rain. Most chameleons do not notice standing water as a source of hydration. Make sure to actually spray your chameleon. The water will collect around the mouth. From here he/she will either start drinking or capillary action will allow the water to seep into it's mouth. Spraying also gives the chameleon a chance to clean his eyes. If you notice your chameleon puffing it's eyes while you spray it, this is absolutely normal. He is just cleaning the inside of the eyelid of any dirt or dust particles that my be present. The technique that many use by putting an ice cube on top of the cage and let it melt creating a drip is not safe. This is a bad way to provide water because the water is still very cold. A chameleon will not drink from this after he/she finds out how cold it is! A different way to make a dripper is to take a butter cup and poke a hole in the bottom with a thumb tack. The hole must be just big enough so it drips constantly but not too big to make a stream of water. The water put in the butter container should be luke warm so it is comfortable for your chameleon. Let the water drip onto a branch or potted plant you may have in the enclosure to ensure that the water doesn't accumulate too much in one place. Many pet stores sell drippers that have a valve to control the amount of water being dripped.

Housing
Choosing the correct enclosure for your Veiled chameleon is very important. From recommendations and strong opinions I have heard and been told, I would too myself recommend you house your chameleon in a cage that contains wire mesh or some other kind of wiring used for the sides and top. If you house your chameleon in an aquarium, your chameleon will get stressed over time and may even die. Aquariums, from the inside, act like mirrors and if your chameleon sees his reflection, he/she may mistake it for a different chameleon. Chameleons do not like to come in contact with each other except mating time. This will simulate what will happen if you have a cage with glass siding. Male Veiled chameleons can get very territorial if they come in contact with other chameleons. The display he puts on is impressive, but very stressful to the chameleon. Another disadvantage is, that the air in aquariums become very stagnate and gets no circulation. This will also cause the vaporizing water from whatever water source you are using remain in the cage and rise the humidity very sharply. This may result in fungus or molds growing in dark crevices in the tank. What I'm trying to say basically is just to try to avoid any cage with more than two sides made of glass. Also the enclosure must be big enough for your Veiled. This is also a very important aspect, because when your chameleon grows to full size he or she may not have enough room to feel comfortable. For Veiled, a cage sizes ranging from 2ft. x 2ft. x 4ft. (4ft. being the height) to even small green house type enclosures will be adequate. Reptile Depot sells all different sizes of wire mesh cages. The sizes range from 22 gallon (15.5in x 15.5in x 25in) to 260 gallon (30in x 30in x 72in). I would personally recommend the 100 gallon Reptarium (16.5in x 30in x 48in) for single male or female Veiled. The enclosure should be nicely arranged with green plants and sticks or branches of many sizes to allow your chameleon to roam to all parts of the cage. Different diameter branches allow your chameleon to exercise his/her feet which is important since they solely rely on them. But do not put very thin sticks in the cage as the chameleon's weight may break it and fall to the ground hurting themselves. Flourishing the cage with live plants reduces the stress, allows better circulation, and provides as an extra food source for your chameleon. Sheffelera, hibiscus, and pathos are three plants that should be considered to be placed in the enclosure. Few chameleons such as Veiled will actually eat some vegetable and fruit matter. They may eat the plants in the enclosure also. Because of this, always make sure the plant you place in their cage is nontoxic.
Note: Pathos have been noted to be mildly toxic. But, myself and many others have had very good success with these plants.

Male/Female?
When your chameleon matures, male Veiled chameleons will have a spur (which looks just like a small pimple) on their rear heals. This spur in males can also be noticed slightly when he is a youngster. Studies are being done on why males have this spur. There are many theories about this like: the spur being used to arouse the female during mating, a claw previously used for holding onto the female during mating many thousands and millions of years ago, and that it has no function or evolutionary history at all.