In 1223, Saint Francis of Assisi introduced the tradition of the presepio in order to make the story of Jesus' birth vivid to his followers. Saint Francis used townsfolk to play the parts of Joseph and Mary, Jesus, the Wise Men, and the shepherds. The notion of dramatizing Christ's birth became so popular that churches all over Italy instituted their own presepios, sometimes with people, but more and more often using small, beautifully
carved figures. Some of the presepios we enjoy today include figures that are hundreds of years old, and a popular pastime of many Italians in the days before Christmas is visiting favorite Nativity scenes.

In addition to setting out the family creche, Italians typically decorate their homes with sprigs of holly and mistletoe, with candles, and with something unique to their culture - a ceppo. The 'ceppo' serves much the same function as does a Christmas tree in other lands, displaying ornaments and gifts for the family.

A cannon shot fired from the Castle San Angelo at sunset on Christmas Eve proclaims the start of the night's holy observances. Families gather for special Christmas Eve dinners, then attend Midnight Mass. The highlight of Christmas Day is another magnificent meal, and St. Stephen's Day, following, is the occasion for visiting friends. People return to work on the 28th, but New Year's Eve and January 1st are marked by revelry and fireworks.
Those who are supertitious, and even some who are not, set the pattern for the coming year by doing one of everything pleasurable; popular wisdom has it that by observing this custom, one can be sure to repeat all these delights in the months to come.

Gift giving in Italy is largely a matter of local tradition; the particular date and the form the observance takes vary greatly. In some areas along the Adriatic Coast, St. Nicholas's feast day on December 6th is the occasion to give gifts to children, whereas in Sicily they receive gifts on St. Lucia's Day, December 13th. Santa Claus is recognized in some of the larger cosmopolitan areas where he is awaited on December 24th. But most people
must wait longer still to receive presents. Some look forward to New Year's Day, an ancient Roman tradition when the practice was to bid good luck in the coming year to friends and family by giving them branches of greenery picked in the grove of the goddess Strenia. Adults accordingly exchange 'strenne' and children are visited by Babbo Natale, "Old Man Christmas".

But the day most widely devoted to giving is Epiphany, January 6th, when the season comes to its official end and a uniquely Italian character named 'La Befana' visits many households. Befana is a folk character who, it is said, hesitated to follow the Three Kings on their journey to honor the Christ Child; ever after she has shown her repentance by riding about the countryside on a broomstick, searching for him with her gifts. Though she is forever too late for the 'Bambino', she tries to make up for her mistake by rewarding good children. Just to be sure that she remembers to stop by, children leave her notes and set out shoes or stockings in which she can leave something.

Natale
Christmas in Italy is a coming together of two very strong traditions - the ancient Roman and the Christian. For the Romans, the period of December 17th to December 24th was the annual Saturnalia, the time to pay tribute to Saturn, the pagan god of sowing and grain. The week-long festival was a time devoted to indulgence: all businesses, public and private, shut down;

executions and military maneuvers were postponed; and slaves, temporarily set free, dined with their masters. Romans entertained themselves night and day with fair-going, unbridled drinking, gambling and other excesses. Gift giving was traditional too, the usual tokens being wax candles and little clay dolls, which, it was believed, had been decreed by the gods as practical substitutes for human sacrifices. Saturn himself was expected to
carouse with the the multitudes; during these days alone every year Romans visited his statue in the Roman forum to untie his bound feet, permitting him to come and go freely. To add to the week's extravagance, one day was set aside for celebrating the birthday of the god Mithras, whom many worshipped as the unconquerable foe of the powers of darkness, showing their appreciation with candlelight processions and great feasting.

Early Christians observed their own Christmas rituals in secret, taking advantage of the spirit of abandon that pervaded the Roman community during the Saturnalia to follow their own beliefs with a minimum of risk. Indeed it was not until A.D. 320 that the Church of Rome was emboldened to call upon the faithful to proclaim publicly December 25th as Christ's "Natale", or birthday. Christmas in Italy has been known as Natale ever since, and the celebrations surrounding it are still dominated by the spiritual traditions of the national religion which is, of course, Roman Catholicism.

Christmas Feasting in Italy
Christmas foods vary greatly among Italy's twenty regions, but Italians everywhere prepare the meals with great care and ceremony. Christmas Eve dinner, typically served around 7 or 8 pm, concludes a day of fasting. The customary meatless main course around Venice, Rome and Naples is 'capitone', or eel, sold live at market and roasted, baked, fried or steamed. But the people of some other regions prefer cod, clams or squid. Frittos mistos, vegetables dipped in batter and deep-fried, are also favorites on the 24th,
along with local pasta and antipasto specialties. The family concludes the meal with sweets and Asti spumante, the Italian sparkling wine, after which the entire household goes to Mass.

Dinner on Christmas Day is served shortly after noon. Often the children of the family prepare for the occasion by writing special letters to their parents, asking forgiveness for misdeeds in the preceeding year and promising better behavior in the next. The children hide letters, written in their best penmanship, under their father's plate, and when he
'discovers' them he reads them aloud with great solemnity.

This Christmas Day menu, too, varies according to region. North of Rome 'capelletti' or alternatively, 'tortellini', varieties of ravioli, are the traditonal choices for the pasta course. The main course is turkey stuffed with chestnuts or perhaps a baked ham, with such customary side dishes as lentils, regarded as a guarantee of prosperity in the new year. Dessert in virtually every part of Italy nowadays includes 'panettone', a type of
raised yeast cake filled with raisins and candied fruits. Once a specialty of Milan, it is said to be named for a Milanese baker, Antonio, who set about to improve upon Milan's already delicious pan di Cherubini (Cherub's bread) to win the hand of his beloved. This "Bread of Tony" is the result. Another superb Christmas dessert served chiefly in Sicilian households is 'cassata', a sponge cake with filling of ricotta cheese, candied fruits,
almonds, grated chocolate, and rum. Nuts and spicy, honeyed 'panforte di Siena' are concluding treats that carry symbolic overtones for all Italians: nuts eaten at this time of the year were once believed to ensure fertile farms and families; honey was a gift that was thought to bless the recipient with a sweet future.

from an article "Joy Through the World" ( UNICEF )

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© George Lilli, September, 1998