About Hedgehogs
WHAT IS A HEDGEHOG?
The African pygmy hedgehog, Atelerix albiventris, is a nocturnal
member of a primitive order of mammals called insectivores (an animal whose
main source of nutrition is small animals and insects). These are thought
to be the earliest examples of placental animals. A hedgehog's entire back
is covered with spines or quills. Contrary to popular belief, these mammals
are not related to porcupines. Hedgehogs do not release their spines when
threatened. Instead, they defend themselves by curling up into a tight
ball and erecting the spines in a cris-cross manner. The face, belly and
legs of a hedgehog are covered with a soft fur. Your new hedgehog will
grow to be about 6 1/2 to 9 inches long and weigh an average of 11 - 16
oz. They can come in a variety of colors ranging from all white to almost
black. The most common color is called agouti or salt and pepper. Their
life span may be up to 10 years in captivity, but on the average will be
around 6-8 years. Hedgehogs make fabulous pets because they are virtually
odorless, make few noises, are clean, and are inexpensive to maintain since
they do not require vaccinations. All that is really required is love and
affection from its owner.
GETTING STARTED
There are a few things that are essential when preparing to keep a pet
hedgehog. They will require a large cage or aquarium (minimum 10 gallons),
a hamster water bottle, a food dish (preferably one that can't be tipped
over) and something big enough for your hedgehog to hide in as a den. For
bedding we recommend pine shavings. DO NOT USE CEDAR BEDDING. It
causes serious health problems in your hedgehog. Quality cat or dog food
is a staple diet and should be supplemented with mealworms, cottage cheese,
and fruits.
SETTING UP YOUR HEDGEHOG'S HOME
The most important thing to remember when setting up your hedgies' home
is that they are solitary mammals. They like to be alone. DO NOT put two
hedgehogs together in a cage or they will fight constantly. There are several
different options that you can choose from as far as housing. An adult
can live in a ten-gallon aquarium, though things get kind of cramped. A
long 20-gallon tank is ideal. Keep in mind that in the wild they have home
ranges of a few square miles, so more space than that is wasted. Cages
that are designed for guinea pigs or rabbits are suitable as well but remember
that hedgehogs like to explore and they are great escape artists. They
can climb anything they can get their claws hooked into, and by rolling
into a ball and leaning forward, they can manage to get down quite safely
from virtually any height that didn't need a long ladder to get them up
to. Medium to large size pet carriers are also acceptable, although hedgehogs
tend to push out their bedding and can make quite a mess. A wire cage is
also a good choice as long as the wires are no further than one and 1/2
inches apart and the bottom is covered with a solid surface ( wire tends
to hurt their feet). You should be careful to make sure the grating in
the cage you use, leaves narrow enough holes that your hedgehog can't get
out or even get his head wedged in between the wire. Chicken wire is probably
not a very safe choice. Hedgehogs will often attempt to escape with an
astonishing amount of vigor and can be quite single minded about doing
so.
Now that your new hedgie has a home, you have to make it comfortable
for him. The easiest and cheapest bedding is going to be pine bedding.
It is safe and absorbent. Cedar bedding has been documented to cause respiratory
problems and changes in liver enzymes in animals. DO NOT USE CEDAR BEDDING.
Corn cob bedding is also acceptable, however, it has been known to cause
problems with dry skin and in humid areas it molds quite easily. Regular
clay cat litter is ok, but beware that it can get stuck in male hedgehogs
genitals. If you use clay litter, use a natural litter that is dust-free.
Other options are CareFresh bedding and Yesterday's News. Both are pelleted
litter made from recycled paper pulp.
When setting up your hedgehogs home, remember that these animals are
most comfortable in warmer temperatures. They do hibernate if they get
too cold, however, this is not acceptable for pet hedgehogs. If your hedgehog
gets too cool, you risk a number of problems including pneumonia. Hedgehogs
should be kept away from drafty areas such as windows and air conditioners.
In the summer, try to maintain your hedgies in a 70 to 80 degree range.
Keep the cage out of direct sun. Your hedgie prefers a range of 65-80 degrees
in the winter. Again, if their temperature falls below this, they will
go into hibernation and may never wake up! Also, sudden temperature fluctuations
are not healthy for your pet, so try to keep your home temperature consistent.
The last item for your new pet's home is something to hide in. Hedgehogs
are nocturnal animals, so they don't particularly like being in the light
during the day. They are burrowers by nature, so they like to have something
to hide in that makes them feel secure. Hedgies like PVC pipe, shoe boxes,
Rubbermaid containers, and sleep sacks (often designed for ferrets). Do
not use socks or other clothing items with loose weave material. Strings
and material can get wrapped around your hedgies' legs and possibly amputate
their limbs.
WHAT TO FEED YOUR HEDGEHOG
Natively, hedgehogs are insectivores, which means they eat both small
animals and insects. They enjoy bugs, slugs, snails, ground birds, small
animals, frogs, reptiles, fruits, roots, and some fungi. They are opportunistic
feeders, meaning if their favorite food isn't available, they go for whatever
is available. A good diet for hedgehog's consists of 30% plus protein and
preferably no more than 10% of fat when using commercially prepared food.
Dry cat food is generally the food of choice. They need the dry food to
keep their teeth and gums in good condition. Generally, about two tablespoons
a day are acceptable. This will vary with the weight of your hedgehog.
A quality cat food is best, such as Science Diet or Bil-Jac. Other feeding
options are using a high quality dog food with a small amount of cottage
cheese as a supplement. Some breeders recommend feeding commercial ferret
food to your hedgehog since it is closer to an insectivore/carnivore diet.
One thing that is important to remember is that hedgehogs can get bored
with their diet. Try a variety. Mix some cat food and dog food together.
Your hedgie will appreciate it!
Just as you and I enjoy treats, so does your pet. Cottage cheese is
an excellent treat, however, too much of it can cause diarrhea. It is also
a good semi-regular source of calcium. Mealworms are also favorites of
hedgehogs. I prefer to give them to my hedgie live, however, not all people
enjoy touching squirmy mealworms. You can put them in the refrigerator
and this will cause the worms to hibernate and they don't wiggle around
(they also last longer). Some breeders just kill the worms by freezing
or boiling them. Fresh diced fruit is also a nice treat, although many
hedgies prefer fruit-based baby foods to the real thing. Hedgies also like
hard-boiled eggs (finely chopped), crickets, and raisins. Do beware of
dairy products (milk, cheese) because they can cause diarrhea in adult
hedgehogs. Keep in mind that treats are occasional and too many can cause
obesity. A fat hedgehog is an unhealthy hedgehog!
BEHAVIOR: WHAT IS MY HEDGEHOG DOING?
One quality that is unique to hedgehogs is called self-anointing. Certain
substances elicit the hedgehog to lick them until they form frothy saliva.
They then contort themselves and, with the aid of a very long tongue, deposit
the frothy saliva onto their spines. It looks like they are vomiting onto
their backs! It is still unknown as to why they exhibit this behavior.
Some people believe it acts as a perfume to attract members of the opposite
sex. Others believe that it is part of a hedgehog's defensive strategy.
Hedgehogs are remarkably resilient to many poisons, so when they encounter
something that might be toxic, they get it in their mouths, foam up, and
cover themselves with the toxic mixture. Oddly enough, it doesn't have
to be anything toxic or poisonous to us that makes hedgies foam. If you
hold your hedgehog after washing your hands with soap or if your hands
are sweaty, your hedgie will often foam. Some hedgehogs foam when they
taste new food or are exposed to a new environment and still some hedgehogs
almost never foam up at all.
Since hedgehogs are not yet domesticated animals, they do need time
to get adjusted and acquainted with their new owners. When you first pick
up your new pet, you will probably be met with a snuffling pin cushion.
The snuffling or snorting sound that the hedgehog makes (while having their
head tucked down) is part of the defense mechanism that has kept hedgehogs
around for a long time. It basically leaves them with their quills protecting
every visible surface, but still allows the hedgehog to move. The snuffling
or snorting sound is usually accompanied by sudden lurches in the direction
the hedgehog believes its potential enemy is in. But don't worry, the more
your hedgehog comes to know you, the less you will get the sharp shoulder
treatment. Getting your hedgehog to become familiar with you takes a lot
of patience. If your hedgehog tends to be somewhat shy or unfriendly toward
you, try spending more time holding him. Don't wear gloves while holding
your hedgehog or they won't get used to your scent and don't feel bad if
your hedgie isn't very friendly when first woken up; they are quite cranky
when their sleep is disturbed!
There is a secret to getting your hedgehog to show his face when they
aren't feeling very friendly. Take the hedgehog and place it belly-down
in one hand. With your other hand, take two or three fingers and
rub their back (spines) in a circular motion. Make sure that you apply
enough pressure so they can feel it. Depending where you rub, you'll get
different effects from them. Close to the head seems to get a head turning.
Rubbing further down the body, close to the middle of the back will cause
your hedgehog to flatten out in your hand. Hedgehogs may get itchy spots
and they can't reach the middle of their backs, so you may be doing them
a favor!
One last thing that most new hedgehog owners are concerned about is
biting. It is not common for hedgehogs to bite, but it does happen. There
seems to be three reasons for biting. One is for tasting and this is the
one usually preceded by licking. Another is due to stress. If the animal
is new to a situation, and is not left alone to get used to or familiar
with it, they will bite. This is the animals way of telling you they want
to be left alone. The last type of biting seems to be certain animals'
way of identifying people. Some hedgehogs just have a habit of biting people.
This is the exception rather than the rule. If your hedgehog does bite,
don't pull back, but instead push whatever it is biting toward him. This
causes them discomfort and they will let go.
MEDICAL CONCERNS
The first concerns you will probably have with your new hedgehog are whether
it needs vaccinations and whether it needs to be spayed/neutered. The answer
to both questions is no. There are currently no vaccinations for hedgehogs.
This may at sometime change as the popularity of this animal increases.
Spaying and neutering doesn't really become a concern since hedgehogs are
solitary animals. They prefer to be kept apart, so unplanned pregnancies
aren't much of a concern. Female hedgehogs DO NOT have a heat cycle.
They are induced into estrus by the presence of a male hedgehog. If the
two are allowed to be together, even for a small amount of time, the likelihood
of a pregnancy is very great. Because they don't require vaccines or spaying/neutering
doesn't mean they shouldn't be seen by a veterinarian. It is recommended
that your hedgehog's fecal material be checked for internal parasites such
as roundworms, tapeworms, or giardia at least annually.
Another concern for hedgehog owners is mites. Mites are very common
in hedgehogs both on the skin and in the ears, but is treatable with Ivomec
and with regular cleaning and disinfecting of the cage. Your veterinarian
will do a skin scraping and check the ears to see if mites are present.
Scratching at the ears and the skin and quill loss are often signs of mites.
Fleas are also common, however, be cautious when using any flea products.
It is safe to use Synerkyl flea mousse and Ovitrol Plus water-based
flea spray. It is unknown whether new topical flea products such as
Advantage or Frontline are safe for hedgehogs, but most professionals feel
that any product that is safe for kittens is also safe for hedgehogs. It
is always in the best interest of you and your hedgehog to contact a veterinarian
before using any product on your hedgehog. The easiest way to prevent flea
or mite infestation is by regular cleansing of the cage. Fecal material
should be picked up out of the bedding daily and the cage should be cleaned
with soap and water weekly. Bedding should also be changed weekly. This
cuts down on the possibility of contracting various parasites dramatically
and also leaves you with a happy hedgehog.
While your hedgehog is relatively clean and odorless, it does require
some grooming. Self-anointing often leaves your hedgie covered in its own
foamy saliva and rooting around in bedding or dirt can leave you with a
dirty pet, so it is recommended that at least twice a year your hedgehog
gets a bath. Sounds like fun! Start by running a couple of inches of water
in a plastic bowl and mix in a mild cat shampoo. Place the hedgehog in
the bath and hold it with one hand. You will need to wear a strong rubber
glove to do this because hedgehogs don't like baths and they will struggle.
With the ungloved hand, splash water onto its back (try not to get water
into its eyes or nose) and rinse thoroughly. Then brush its spines from
head to tail with a soft hairbrush. After the bath, wrap up your hedgehog
in a dry towel and place them in fresh bedding. Remember to keep them away
from drafty areas!
You may also want to trim their nails while you have them in a towel
or are wearing a glove. I've found that human nail clippers work best.
For back feet, slide your hands under the hedgie, grasp the leg and pull
it to the side or turn the foot upside down as you bring the leg backward.
For front feet, hold the hedgie in your lap and try to bring the front
leg forward or a little sideways. If you are trimming nails alone, you
may only get to do one foot a day. It is easiest with a partner because
they can hold the hedgie while you grab a leg and trim. Be careful and
don't cut the quick (blood vessel in the nail). The quick looks like a
red string inside the nail. Just cut to the beginning of the quick or else
your hedgehog will begin to bleed. If this happens, don't panic. Just apply
some Quik-stop powder or flour to the nail and it will stop the bleeding.
Now you have a clean, fresh hedgehog.
The last health problem that needs to be discussed is also one of the
deadliest. It is obesity. It is so severe primarily because obesity causes
damage to the heart and liver. The heart has difficulty pumping because
the arteries get clogged with fatty deposits. The fat also starts to
accumulate in the liver. The liver can't function normally and it shuts
down. This often results in the kidneys shutting down and eventual death.
The quickest and easiest way to determine if you have an obese hedgehog
is to hold it on its back and look. A normal, healthy hedgehog should not
be robust and should have good substance to it (meaning no jelly belly).
You may also see yellowish fatty deposits under the armpits. A good weight
is usually around 1/2 to 1 pound. Too much over this and you may have a
weight problem with your pet. If this occurs, don't change the diet, just
decrease the amount that you give. Switching to a "lite" premium
cat food is also acceptable.
Hedgies that are overweight usually have several problems. First, there
is too much fat in their diet. Many times it is from overfeeding or too
many snacks such as mealworms and cottage cheese. Second is lack of proper
exercise. Hedgehogs are very active animals. They require several hours
of exercise daily or else they become fat, lazy, and indifferent. Hedgehog
toys are easy to find. Leather or rawhide chew toys that are made for puppies
are suitable for hedgehogs. They also like to play in and chew on large
paper grocery bags. They will also rip newspaper into shreds. Hedgehogs
love to play with toilet paper rolls; they push them around with their
noses for hours! And to really get your hedgie excited, try making them
a sandbox. Get some flower pot saucers and fill them with play sand (make
sure it has the silica washed out of it) and watch your hedgie twist and
roll in it. In the summer months you can even take your hedgehog outside
and run in the grass or garden (just keep an eye on them - they are escape
artists!).
Probably the best hedgehog toy to insure proper exercise and all over
happiness is the hedgehog wheel. You can purchase a regular ferret or guinea
pig wheel and line the inside with contact paper, screen wire, or cardboard
and they will run for hours on it. A hamster wheel is ok, just make sure
you put some screen down inside the wheel or else your hedgies feet will
fall between the cracks and can cause serious leg injuries. There are also
many hedgehog breeders and suppliers that sell professionally made hedgehog
wheels. If you don't provide your hedgehog with a wheel consider letting
him run in a room for a few hours each evening, just "hog-proof"
the room before you do. Hog-proofing is like child-proofing; anything that
you would not leave out for a child to play with applies toward a hedgehog.
The best guide is to get down to the hedgehog's level and try to imagine
any place that your spiny friend would like to get into. Also beware that
hedgehogs aren't afraid of heights and will jump off of almost anything.
DO NOT allow them near stairs or your hedgie can be seriously injured.
I let my hedgehog run around the bedroom with the door closed. Nothing
is left on the floor and my pet can run
to his little hearts' content.
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Last Updated May 10th, 1997 by Ron
Keane
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