Telescope Basics


First, some of the most common questions:

What is the best telescope?
You will hear hundreds of answers to this question depending on the various observers' preferences. Quite simply, the best telescope for you is the one that will get used and enjoyed often.

OK, so which telescope should I get?
There are 2 basic types of telescopes; the reflector and the refractor. Some folks talk about a third type - the catadioptric. A cat is actually a combination of a reflector and a refractor.

Reflectors
use a pair of mirrors to collect and focus the light. The primary is the large mirror at the bottom of the tube (typically in sizes from 3" to 40"). The light is bounced off of the primary and reflected back to the top of the tube off of the secondary to the eyepiece. Reflectors are generally preferred for deep-sky objects such as nebula and galaxies. They also offer excellent high powered viewing of the planets and moon. One often sighted disadvantage of reflectors is their maintenance needs. They require collimation of the mirrors for the best images possible which can be accomplished relatively easily with reading and the right tools. In its simplest sense, collimation is the process by which you align the primary and secondary mirrors.

Reflectors are typically offered on 2 types of mountings, the Dobsonian and the German Equatorial Mount (GEM).

There are several options out there for Dobsonians. Celestron, Discovery Telescopes, Meade, Orion and Starsplitter all offer reasonably priced options. My personal preference would be the Starsplitters. These scopes are a step up in quality from the others and are a joy to use. The advantages of this type of scope are the largest aperture per dollar, portability, and simplicity of use. The disadvantages are the lack of slow motion control , which can be very beneficial in high power viewing and the inability to do astro-imaging.

Another type of reflector mounting is the German Equatorial Mount (Gem). This is typically more expensive than the Dobsonian. It is somewhat more complex to set-up and use, but offers the advantage of slow motion control and the ability to add motor drives. While there are many choices in this category, as I am gearing this towards beginners, I will offer only a few suggestions. Currently the scopes availably with quality mounts are the Celestron 114HD (4.5"), the Orion Skyview Deluxe series, and Discovery . The prices on these scopes range from $379 for the 4.5" models to $599 for the 8" Discovery. My personal recommendation would be one of the Orions.

Refractors focus the light through a lens in the front of the telescope to the eyepiece in the rear of the tube. A decent refractor is significantly more $ per aperture than a reflector. Refractors have the reputation of providing the sharpest views of planets and the moon.

Advantages of refractors are that they are virtually maintenance free, and offer excellent images. Their biggest disadvantages is the cost and the limit of aperture sizes available.

Many amateurs have started out using a 60mm Refractor. Fortunately, there are some very good refractors now available that won't force you to get a second mortgage. The Celestron Firstscope 60 deluxe, the Celestron C102-HD and Orions 90mm Deluxe. Starting at less than $150 (for the Celestron FS60 Deluxe), we finally have a useable telescope available for those wishing an inexpensive entry into the hobby. While the limitations of 60mm of aperture will quickly show themselves on deepsky objects, this little gem performs very well on the moon, planets and large bright deep sky objects. Also, there are currently some relatively inexpensive (<$300) rich field refractors which perform marvelously on large objects such as star clusters. The 2 in this category I would recommend are the Orion Short Tube and the Celestron 80WA.  All of these scopes are manufactured by Synta in China and can be found under various brand names, Omcon, Skywatcher among them.   There has also been a recent addition to the low priced refractor market.   Marketed under several names, it's a 150mm (6") scope.  I would not recommend this scope to anyone looking for a scope to be used out of the box.  The mount is grossly inadequate and will cause more frustration than joy under the stars.

Catadioptrics are the workhorses of today's amateurs. The most common types of Cats are Schmidt-Cassegrains and Maksutov-Cassegrains. They are highly versatile instruments are are often preferred for astrophotography. There are thousands of available accessories for these scopes, such as digital setting circles, computer controls, etc. These allow you to simply align on a couple of known stars, and program the scope to point to whatever you want to find. While this may sound like the perfect option, the disadvantage is that you may never learn the sky with this method.

Catadioptrics are available in 3" to about 24" (the largest I've seen). They offer excellent portability, and lower maintenance than a reflector. Over about 10" though, the portability is questionable at best (typically about 100 lbs.). The price range for Catadioptrics starts at about $595 for a 3.5" Meade ETX (a Maksutov Cassegrain), all the way up to as much as you wish to spend. A good 8" basic model (such as the Celestar 8 from Celestron) is about $1000.

Another key consideration in selecting a scope is where it will be used. Will you be able to set it up and leave it in your back yard (protected of course), or do you have to carry it down several flights of stairs just to use it? Will you be driving out to a site to observe with it? For portability, anything larger than an 8" Equatorial mounted Reflector, a 10" Dobsonian, a 10" Scmidt-Cassgrian, or a 5" refractor is about the limit for most people. (Although Arnold Scharzenegger may disagree). Add to this equation the size of your car, and you can very easily see what scope will be portable enough for you.

If portability is your number one concern, the Celestron G-3 or G-5, Meade ETX, or the Orion and Celestron Short tube refractors are excellent choices. They are highly portable and offer very good imagery.

Recently, there have been several introductions of computer controlled telescopes at prices that most beginners can afford.  The Meade ETX-EC and DS series and Celestron's Nextar series offer the ability to automatically go-to any target in the sky.   While computer controlled scopes can be a wonderful thing, bear in mind that for the price of a 70mm DS Series telescope you can purchase a nice 6" dobsonian.   Another thing to remember is that virtually any telescope can be outfitted with digital setting circles which will perfrom essentially the same as a go to telescope (except that you have to manually push the scope to the target).  It is for this reason that I don't recommend any of these scopes as a first scope.

Lastly, many people have started out with a good pair of binoculaurs. 7 X 50 or 10 X 50's are a good size as they allow for hand holding. Things to look for in a astronomical binoculaur are multi-coated optics and a tripod mount adapter. Mounting binos on a tripod will greatly enhance your viewing experience. Virtually every amateur astronomer I've met has a pair of binos. They offer superb views of large open clusters (such as the Pleiades and Hyades), as well as allowing views of significant detail on the moon. They also help to teach you your way around the sky. Their are many quality binos on the market today, with a wide price range. I've heard a lot of good things about the Celestron Ultimas, Nikons, and Fujinons.

Mountings and Set-up
There are 3 basic types of mounts, Dobsonian, Equatorial, and Alt-Az.

The author's Dobsonian mounted 8" Newtonian reflector.

Dobsonian mounts are highly portable, light, and easy to use. They offer movements on 2 axis, altitude (up and down, and azimuth (left and right). They are simple point and shoot mountings. No alignments are necessary which makes them very appealing for beginners. The advantages of this type of mounting are it's portability, stability, and ease of use. The disadvantages of this type of mount is that it makes higher power viewing slightly more difficult as it always requires movement on both axis. While it takes some getting used to, high power viewing on a quality Dobsonian mount is not as difficult as many folks think. After a while with the mount, folks get quite used to the movements and find it quite easy to do. I regularly observe planets with my dobsonian mount at powers of 300X without difficulty.  There are several companies now offering drives for dobsonians, which will make them just as easy to use at high powers as any other telescope out there.  

The author's alt-azimuth mounted 60mm refractor.

Alt-az mounts are mounts typically on tripods which move in 2 axis (altitude and azimuth). Again, simplicity of use is a key advantage of these types of mounts. Another advantage of these mounts is that many offer slow motion controls. This is usually accomplished by the use of knobs or cables on the head and allow you to make very fine adjustments of the scope somewhat easily. They are also significantly lighter than Equatorial mounts and so also offer an advantage in portability. They are typically more stable on beginner's type instruments than equally priced equatorials. The one disadvantage again is that it requires movements on both axis to keep an object centered in view which can be an inconvenience when viewing at high powers.

The author's Equatorial mounted 4.5" Newtonian reflector.


Equatorial Mountings are the most sophisticated of the group. They offer movement on 2 axis also except this time it's Right Ascension (east-west) and Declination (north-south). The Right Ascension (RA) follows the earth's rotation making it possible to track object by only moving the telescope on one axis. They also require what is called Polar Alignment which for many beginners can be extremely confusing to grasp (myself included in this group). I will describe Polar Alignment shortly. The advantages of this type of mounting are the ability to track an object using only one axis (RA), the ability to accept motor drives for automatic tracking of objects, and photographic capabilities. The disadvantages of these are the cost and weight. Also, on many entry level instruments the mounts are very unstable (telescope shakes to much when trying to view or focus or move).

Polar Alignement is not as tough as it sounds when you're just using the scope visually. The alignment for astrophotography is much more critical; but as I am gearing this toward beginners I will talk about the alignment needed for visual use.

The first thing you need to do is set your local latitude on the scope, which is usually indicated by a scale on the equatorial head. This only needs to be done once unless you transport the scope to somewhere else for viewing. You can usually find your latitude on road atlases. The shaft protruding out (RA circle will be on the bottom) which your telescope rests on needs to point at the Celestial North Pole (well this is what the instructions always say). Simply pointing towards Polaris (the North Star) is sufficient. Simply use your eye to sight along this shaft and get it pointing at Polaris. I'd recommend having one of the tripod legs under this point also as it seems to make the scope more stable when moving it around. While not exactly Polar aligned, this is more than sufficient for visual use (Polaris is located about 0.8º from the Celestial North Pole). That's it, you're ready to use the advantages that an equatorial mount offers.

Before you make any decision, I would strongly recommend that you visit a public star party and get views through as many different types of scopes as possible, then decide for yourself. Many astronomy clubs offer public viewing nights, with anywhere from 5 to 50 scopes being there. This is an excellent opportunity to get a firsthand look at many of the scopes described above.

Another site with excellent help for choosing the right telescope is The Astro Lair Guide.

If there's something specific that you'd like help with, and you can't find it here (or on one of my other pages), feel free to to add it to send me an e-mail. I'll respond as soon as I can (usually within a day or 2).

I also welcome comments, critiques, suggestions, other stuff you'd like to see.
Thanks!


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