INTRODUCTION

The joy of surfing- the beach environment, moving with the waves:

Growing up in southern California, a day at the beach meant sunshine and warm sand, the crisp ocean scent, and water full of wonders. I learned early to respect the waves for their power (who can forget the fear of being swept away when a wave unexpectedly bowls you over), but also to love them for their beauty. I can still sit for hours, mesmerized by the play of light across the surface of a growing swell, and the rhythmic roar and hiss of foam as it rolls shoreward.

But the first time I felt myself falling, flying briefly as my body caught the wave and planed across its face for one exquisite moment- that was enchantment. Every subsequent surfing experience contains a taste of that visceral joy a feeling that's shared with every other surfer, of any type, in any land or time, and with no one else.

Alternative wave riding vehicles- boards, boats, sails and paddles

Whether you bodysurf, board surf, windsurf, or paddlesurf the operative word is SURF. Surfing is planing down the face of a wave and can be done in many different environments of which the ocean shore is the most preferred. River waves, standing waves, wakes, and artificial waves are poor substitutes for a powerful ocean wave breaking onto a reef, rocky point, or sandy beach.

What we will be talking about in these pages is the sport of paddlesurfing. Paddlesurfing is surfing a craft which the surfer sits on or inside, and which is propelled by a paddle, specifically a double-ended kayak paddle. It can be called a kayak, waveski, surfboot, or even a canoe. If you sit down while you surf, and you use a paddle for assistance, you're paddlesurfing. Each species of paddlecraft has its own unique characteristics, and we will mention some when appropriate, but mostly we will be discussing the common aspects of the craft which define the sport.

We make no assumptions of prior knowledge or experience in these instructions. Of course, whatever skills you already have developed in either paddling or surfing will make it easier and quicker for you to become an accomplished paddlesurfer. These instructions will be helpful to all experience levels, and are designed to reduce the amount of time it takes to acquire skills, with the goal of increasing your surfing pleasure. An old Chinese proverb says, "A wise man learns from experience; a wiser man learns from the experience of others."

Here then is our experience.

First things first

WARNING: We ask you to consider your choice to go paddlesurfing. Paddling and surfing are inherently dagerous activities, with sometimes severe consequences (including disablement or even death). We invite you to adopt the attitude that surfers have always held... that they would be accountable for their choice to go surfing and responsible for any of the consequences along the way. We are providing the best information we have as to the equipment and techniques necessary to minimize any potential risks. But you should know that paddlesurfing is an inherently dangerous activity- it is safe. An accident can happen any time. Whether it is due to the violent environment of the surf zone, or a mistake made by another surfer, or a flaw in your equipment, the risks are there! You ALWAYS SURF AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Safety considerations

Water safety -

Learn to swim! Wear a personal flotation vest until you are confident in your ability to swim with a boat in surf.

Learn to bodysurf. Find out how powerful waves can be without a boat to complicate the situation. Learn to catch waves with a Boogie board. Surfing is surfing, and what you learn will carryover

Observe the Rules of the Wave listed below. Paddlesurfing is less dangerous for the surfer than board surfing, but paddlecraft can be more dangerous to other surfers.

Equipment - Get proficient with your paddlecraft on flat, calm water.

Wear a helmet

Get good at paddling.

Learn the strokes.

Learn to brace.

Learn to wet exit.

Learn to roll.

Surfing etiquette and right of way on the waves

Who owns the waves? Everybody...nobody. Earn the right to take the wave. Don't try to play with the big boys until you are in control. Don't argue with surfers, if you can possibly avoid it. Cultivate good vibes in the break. Give bad attitudes a lot of space.

Who was here first? First on usually has the right of way. But the surfer closest to the curl should get the wave.

When to give way - Sometimes you give one away, just to be careful, just to be kind. Don't hog the break. Look out for less experienced surfers. Give everyone the benefit of the doubt.

STARTING OUT

Attitude - The attitude of a learner is crucial to gaining skill in any sport.

Be mindful of what is happening. Strive to understand the forces involved in the process. A high awareness of your actions and the actions of the waves is the result of paying attention.

Persistence: Surfing lends itself to persistence. Keep doing it. The more you do it, if you are paying attention, the better you will surf.

Perserverance: Don't let failure discourage you from persisting. In surfing, a willingness to get wiped-out is essential to improvement. The best surfers usually suffer the most horrendous wipe-outs. That's what it takes to push to the next level of skill. Higher skills are harder to learn, and the penalty for failure is swift and sure. Accept it as part of the game.

Good physical conditioning is essential to paddlesurfing enjoyment. It can be a rough and tumble sport, and requires both strength and endurance to attain a high skill level.

Equipment- Like there are all levels of proficiency in paddlesurfing, there are also numerous craft to correspond to these levels.

If you are just beginning you can choose from many plastic sit-on-top boats currently on the market. A length of 11 feet or shorter is preferrable for manuverability. Their performance is low, but you will be catching and riding waves. If you wipe-out, you can get back on them in deep water. Remember to pick a spot where you don't interfere with surfboarders.

If you are a river kayaker, and can't afford a surfboat, you can surf your whitewater craft, although it's design will limit your performance to a relatively low level. But you can have fun riding waves and learning the ways of the ocean.

If you want the maximum performance capability for paddlesurfing, there are craft designed with planing bottoms specifically for this purpose.

Waveski - Essentially a sit-on-top surfboard, this craft will do virtually everthing a surfboard will, and give you the advantage of a paddle to catch more waves. Straps for hips, feet, and thighs keep you attached to the ski and give you precise control over the craft. They are light and take up less space, so they travel well. They don't require sprayskirts, but leave you exposed to the elements. They are tippy, since you sit above the waterline, and can be a challenge to paddle, especially through big soup. They can be boarded in deep water, so they don't require a good launch site, or a bombproof roll.

Surfkayak (surfboot, surfshoe) - These are basically enclosed waveskis. They weigh more, but have the advantage of tighter control, due to knee, hip, and foot braces. They are also warmer, since the surfer is not exposed fully to the wind and water, and more comfortable for most people. They are less tippy, since you are sitting below the waterline.

Sometimes fins (also called skegs) are attached to aid directional stability to these craft, but they limit the manuverability also. It takes greater skill to control the finless surfcraft, but you can do more tricks. The newer designs are made of fiberglass composites to make them lighter and higher performance.

Paddles - You can use your whitewater paddle with your river kayak. For waveski and surfkayak paddling, a shorter paddle, six-and-a-half feet or so, is recommended. A flat blade is better, since highly curved blades deflect at high speeds.

Good equipment is worth taking the time to find.

Paddler magazine is a good source for finding dealers with the best surfing equipment. Since the market for surfcraft is relatively small, prices tend to be high on new models. Used craft are sometimes available at considerable savings.

We strongly recommend that you get well acquainted with your equipment on calm water before you attempt the surf. You are entering a violent environment, and proper preparation can save you needless swimming, and possible injury. Learn to eskimo roll as soon as possible, no matter what type of surfcraft you are paddling. Professional instruction and a nice warm pool will get you rolling in no time. A local shop or kayak club will probably have both available.

Find a good spot to learn to surf.

More to come...

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