Rio Grande near Boquillas Canyon (photo courtesy Mike & Kathy W., Austin, TX)
Rio Grande "At a Glance" |
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| Scenery | Southwest deserts and deep canyons |
| Best time | Early spring, Late fall |
| Wilderness | Some very remote sections |
| Water Flow | Seasonal, often low |
| Water Quality | Silty |
| Campsites | Generally good and plentiful (limited in canyons) |
| Hazards | Several rapids (see below); border issues |
| Logistics | Local shuttle services usually available |
| Trip Length | Up to 99 miles |
| Recommendation | Less challenging but more interesting than the popular 'Lower Canyons' - worth a special trip! |
Rio Grande near Boquillas Canyon (photo courtesy Mike & Kathy W., Austin, TX)
General Description & Characteristics -- The Rio Grande offers the most spectacular desert river experience east of the Rockies. There are hundreds of miles of floatable river along the Texas/Mexico border. Some sections are known for their fine whitewater rapids, but here's a section that runs along Big Bend National Park that is suitable for open canoes in experienced hands.
The Chihuahua Desert is rugged country, and the Rio Grande is the only respite from the arid climate of the area. The trip described here includes two major canyons (Mariscal and Boquillas) as well as the smaller but elegant San Vicente Canyon. Most of this trip is through open desert country, but it is far from boring scenery. You are constantly in sight of the surrounding mountains on both the Mexico and U.S. side of the river. The canyons offer a dramatic contrast and some exciting canoeing in a couple of spots.
This area is extremely hot in the summer. Best times are March-April and November. In recent years the water level of the Rio Grande has been below average, with entire seasons passing without adequate water for canoeing. The water is usually higher in the fall season. Be sure to check with NPS headquarters about water level before planning this trip.
Location & Canoeable Mileage -- The section described here is from Castolon to La Linda, a distance of 99 miles. Put in at Castolon (Cottonwood Campground) in Big Bend National Park. You need a permit from Big Bend National Park. Calm waters prevail for about 35 miles, then you enter Mariscal Canyon, where there is a class II rapid you must run blind and a Class III- that can be portaged. San Vicente Canyon is only a few miles downstream. At the 65 mile point you will pass Rio Grande Village, the major campground of Big Bend National Park. Continuing down river, you enter Boquillas Canyon, the longest canyon of this run. At the 99 mile point you arrive at the La Linda or Gerstaker bridge (now closed to traffic). The take out is on the U.S. (left) side, just down from the bridge.
The end of this trip is the beginning of another popular trip, the 'lower canyons' of the Rio Grande. This 83-mile trip has a lot more rapids, including at least one that is a long mandatory portage for open canoes. Most of this trip is through very remote canyons with no intermediate access.
Interesting Features -- The Rio Grande has spectacular scenery ranging from open desert to ominous and deep canyons. On the U.S. side, the land is protected in Big Bend National Park. On the Mexico side, cattle ranching is prevalent, and you are likely to see Mexican cowboys along the way. It is helpful to speak a little Spanish if you encounter them, but many are engaged in trafficking of drugs or illegal immigrants, and involvement in this is to be absolutely avoided.
From the river, you can visit the Mexican villages of Santa Elena & Boquillas. Tiny Boquillas is especially popular as it is easily accessible by ferry rowboat to the visitors of Big Bend National Park [we have heard recently the ferry may not run due to security issues]. Santa Elena is a bit larger. Food and drink are available in both towns.
The canyon walls of Mariscal are dark and nearly vertical, coming right down to the water's edge. In Mariscal Canyon you must run Rockpile Rapid (II) which is hidden behind a huge boulder. You can choose to run or portage the Tight Squeeze (III-). There are a couple of class I-II rapids in Boquillas Canyon.
Hot Springs is an interesting feature of Big Bend National Park. It is right on the river, and accessible to the park visitors by road. Ruins of a historical spa are a short walk from the river.
Camping -- Outside the canyons, there are good campsites along the river on sandbars and above the banks in many places. In the canyons, there are fewer camp spots, and they are generally found where side canyons enter. You can camp on either the Mexico or U.S. side. If you are concerned about camping in Mexico, just bear in mind that this border is generally ignored by the locals on both sides -- being on the U.S. side does not give you any particular advantage. There are some restrictions about where you can camp within the National Park.
Additional Information:
Canoeing Information Canoe Rental/Shuttle Service Check with BBNP for current information on shuttle providers River Flow Data Parks on/near the River BBNP Towns/Other Locales on/near the River Santa Elena and Boquillas, Mexico Books
- Big Bend Natural History Association book store has maps and many descriptive books of the area.
- Rivers and Rapids : A Very Complete Canoeing, Rafting, and Fishing Guide to the Streams and Rivers of Texas, Arkansas, and Oklahoma
- Texas Whitewater
More Pictures . Environmental Issues/Organizations . Acknowledgments/Contributors Cliff Long Miscellaneous .
