Sugar Artistry
Before machines were used, all candies
were made by hand. As an additional
pastime, candy makers started experimenting with different ways to work with
sugar and the art of sugar artistry was born.
The different types of sugar artistry are poured sugar, pulled sugar,
and blown sugar. Spun sugar and rock
sugar may also be used in sugar artistry.
All of these types of sugar artistry involve the cooking of sugar syrup
with the same basic ingredients.
Before explaining the cooking
procedure and shaping of the sugar solution into various shapes and forms, it
is of importance to understand the behavior of the sugar and water in the
syrup.
Boiling Point and
Sugar Concentration
When sugar is dissolved in water, it
raises the boiling point of the solution above that of water. The magnitude of the change depends on the
amount of sugar dissolved in the water; the more the sugar, the higher the
boiling point. So the boiling point of
sugar solution is an indirect sing of the amount (concentration) of dissolved
sugar it contains.
A sugar syrup that is cooked to a high
temperature (high boiling point) contains quite a bit of sugar and very little
water. Once that is cooked to a lower
temperature contains more water.
When cooking a solution of water and
sugar, the water begins to evaporate, while the sugar stays behind. This means that the sugar accounts for a
larger and larger proportion of ingredients in the solution. In other words, the syrup gets more and more
concentrated as the water boils off and so its boiling point (cooking
temperature) rises. As the cooking
process continues, the boiling point and concentration of the syrup
increases. The more water a syrup
contains (low boiling point), the softer it will be when cooled. A syrup that contains very little water will
be harder to cool.
Mise En Place
It is best to use copper pots for
cooking the sugar because the copper will conduct the heat faster and more
evenly, which enables fast, even cooking of the sugar. Be sure the pot used is completely
clean. Clean it with an acid such as
lemon juice of vinegar.
F Have
a reliable candy thermometer on hand.
The temperature of the sugar is very important because it will determine
the final texture of the cooked sugar.
F Nearby,
have a tall container that is filled with clean distilled water and place a
clean spoon, for stirring the sugar to dissolve it before it boils, and a clean
brush, for brushing down the sides of the pan.
Make sure the brush has natural bristles because synthetic bristles can
melt.
F Place
a large bowl about twice the size of the sugar pot filled with cold water near
the stove for shocking the sugar when it has reached the proper temperature.
F Fill
a one to two quart container with hot distilled water for storing utensils to
keep them free from impurities during work.
Use a tea strainer for removing impurities which cause the sugar to
crystallize, destroying the sugar.
To make poured
sugar, using a regular size copper pot, use:
Sugar: 4
pounds 100%
Water: 2
pounds 50%
Glucose: 9 ounces 15-20%
If the showpiece
is to have many small details, up to 12 drops of tartaric acid are added to the
above formula. The sugar will become
more sensitive to moisture and more sticky.
The sugar used should be very clean.
Domino and Dixie Crystal brands of sugar are excellent. The water used should also be very
clean. It is therefore best to use
distilled water.
Cooking Procedure
1. Clean
the pot with an acid (lemon or vinegar) and hot water. This removes the oxidation film and other
dirt on the pot that would otherwise discolor the sugar.
2. After
cleaning, rinse the pot to remove all the acid, using cold water. Do not dry the pot with a towel because the
fabric will leave a residue that promotes crystallization in the sugar.
3. Add
the water and the sugar, stirring with a clean spoon.
4. Using
a low flame, bring the solution to a boil, stirring to help dissolve the
sugar. Do not stir the sugar once is
has begun to boil. If the sugar is left
unstirred before boiling, some of it will sink to the bottom of the pot and
caramelize, or even burn, and turn the batch of sugar yellow. It is important to remember that the sugar
dissolves as it boils. This is a
physical change that results in the sugar not being in crystal formation any
longer. Because the change is merely
physical, the sugar can crystallize again, becoming grainy, if not properly
cared for. Just before the sugar comes
to a boil, remove the white scum that is forming on the surface of the sugar,
using the tea strainer.
5. Add
the glucose. It is best to weigh the
glucose on plastic wrap and poke a hole in it when it is ready to be added to
the boiling sugar. The reason the
glucose is not added at the beginning of the procedure is that its density will
prevent the sugar from dissolving completely, which could cause the dissolved sugar
to crystallize at a later point.
Note: If possible, let the sugar syrup set overnight,
covered with plastic wrap, allowing more time for the sugar grain to dissolve
properly.
6. Suspend
the thermometer in the center of the pot of boiling sugar. This is best for gas heat, since the flame
causes a strong side heat which would cause inaccurate readings if the
thermometer were place on the side of the pot.
7. If
adding white-white to make the sugar opaque, add it now. Too much white-white can make the sugar look
plastic, so measure accurately.
White-white can also be added to the sugar later, after the sugar has
been cooked.
8. Increase
heat to a high flame, making sure it does not shoot along the side of the pot,
and continue to boil the sugar, brushing the sides of the pot and the
thermometer every 5 minutes. This
removes any accumulated sugar that is on the side of the pot or
thermometer. This step is important
because:
a. If a small amount of sugar collects on
the side of the pot it may burns and discolor the batch, or
b. The small amount of sugar may crystallize
and the crystals will set off a chain reaction in the sugar. The whole batch will crystallize.
Another
method of removing the sugar from the sides of the pot is to cover the pot and
let the steam created clean the sides of the pot. This will, however, slow down the cooking of the sugar due to the
trapped steam.
9. The
sugar should be cooked as quickly as possible.
To accomplish this, use a high heat, do not cook too much sugar at one
time, and do not interrupt the cooking of the sugar. The faster the sugar cooks, the whiter the sugar will be. If the sugar is cooked too slowly, the sugar
will turn yellowish and will have a greater possibility of crystallizing. When the sugar is getting near the desired
temperature (approximately 5 degrees lower), stir the sugar lightly with the
thermometer to distribute the temperature of the sugar more evenly. As this
point, lower the flame.
10. Cook
the sugar until it reaches 305° F exactly. Be sure to read the thermometer
accurately. Remove the thermometer and
place it in a bath of hot water. Sugar
can be cooked to a higher temperature, but it will be more off-white in
color. Sugar will begin to caramelize
at 320° F, so be very careful of the
temperature.
11. Shock
the sugar in the prepared pot of cold water.
Make sure the level of the sugar is equal with the water level on the
outside of the pot. Keep the sugar in
the water until the boiling stops, taking care that no water gets into the
sugar. This prevents the temperature of
the sugar from rising any further.
12. Place
the pot on a sturdy sheet pan.
13. Add
the tartaric acid at this point, if it is to be used. The sugar will start to bubble.
Shake the pot until the sugar stops bubbling. This is a sign that the acid is well incorporated into the sugar.
14. Reheat
the sugar to maximum fluidity. Do not
boil.
15. The
sugar is ready to be colored and poured.
Ingredients
The glucose and
tartaric acid reduce the chances of the sugar crystallizing. Tartaric acid reduce the changes of the
sugar crystallizing. Tartaric acid can
be found in some wine-making shops or drug stores. Tartaric acid will make the sugar softer, more sensitive to
moisture, and sticky, because the acid actually inverts some of the granulated
sugar. Cream of tartar may be used instead of tartaric acid, using a
sufficient amount and adding at the beginning of the cooking process. Whenever possible, do not use tartaric acid
in poured sugar. The sugar will have a
longer shelf life without it.
Glucose is a type
of sugar that will never return to crystal form. It should not be used in excess of 20 percent, however, because
it also softens the sugar and makes it more sensitive to moisture.
Points to Remember
F Dilute
the tartaric acid in a 1:1 ratio of hot water.
F Four
pounds of sugar takes approximately one half hour to cook, from the moment it
begins to boil.
F The
temperature measures how much water is actually left in the sugar
solution. This is why taking accurate
temperature reading is so important.
Having the sugar at 305° F leaves just the right amount of water in the solution
so that it will be firm enough, but not too sticky and white in appearance.
F The
sugar can be cooked to a higher temperature.
It will be stronger, but more yellowish, off-white in color.
F If
poured sugar is to be opaque, rather than clear or transparent, the following
items can be used:
J White-white
(titanium dioxide) or milchweiss can be added at any time.
J Calcium
carbonate, mixed with a little water to make a soft paste, added to sugar at
290° F.
J Plaster
of Paris is used like calcium carbonate, but is used only for showpieces that
are not edible.
F If
the moisture content in the air is too high, the sugar should be cooked to a
higher temperature and less glucose and acid should be used.
Pouring the Sugar
Bases:
There must be a
base on which to pour the sugar.
Appropriate bases include silicon paper, parchment paper, aluminum foil,
marble slabs, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), and silicon rubber.
Silicon paper is
parchment paper that has been treated with silicon. The sugar will not stick to this surface and it does not need to
be oiled. Ordinary parchment paper
should be oiled so the sugar does not stick.
If aluminum foil is used, it should be slightly oiled.
Marble slab
should be well polished and free of cracks or holes, and slightly oiled. If the sugar is poured directly onto the
marble it should be released from the marble using a spatula while it is still
slightly warm. If the sugar is allowed
to cool completely, the vacuum created between the sugar and marble will create
such a strong suction that the sugar will stick and not come off.
PVC comes in two
forms, either soft, which is plastic-like, or hard, which is used to make some
types of piping. These are versatile
bases, allowing both sides of the sugar to be utilized. It also allows bending of the sugar. The sugar is bent while still warm and
peeled from the PVC when it is cold. No
oil is necessary, and soft PVC is preferable.
There are many
different kinds of silicon rubber that can be used as a base, and most will
need oil. Silicon rubber also allows
utilization of both sides of the sugar.
Molds:
Molds help the
poured sugar retain its shape and keep it from flowing. Frequently used molds include plastiline,
steel bars, metal bands and aluminum foil, cake rings, cookie cutters, PVC, and
rubber mats.
Plastiline is
man-made clay that does not dry out or spoil.
It is rolled out one-third to one-quarter inch thick, using cornstarch,
and then cut. Plastiline needs to be
oiled and used when it is as cold as possible.
The softer the pastiline, the
more it will stick to the sugar.
Steel bars are
used for molding straight sections of the showpiece. Metal bands and aluminum foil are used for shaped sections, since
both bend easily to a desired shape.
Both should be oiled. Cake
rings, cookie cutters, and any closed molds are good for forming desired shapes. These should be oiled, and the sugar must be
released from the base while it is slightly warm. Since heat expands and cold contracts, if the sugar is allowed to
cool completely in the mold, the mold adheres tightly to the sugar, and the
mold cannot be removed without breaking the sugar.
Soft PVC can be
used for making molds. No oil it
needed.
When choosing
rubber mats, use the desired shape using a razor knife or scalpel. Rubber mats need to be oiled slightly.
Coloring the
Sugar:
Use paste or
powdered food colors. Be sure to dilute
the powdered food colors in water or alcohol.
Do not used liquid food colors which are used for airbrushing. Keep the colors clean and as new as
possible. This will help prevent any
impurities from getting into the sugar.
Make black only with clear, not opaque sugar.
From the three
primary colors, red, blue and yellow, most of the other colors can be
made. Paste or powdered food color are
preferred rather than liquid because the paste color will not change the
consistency of the sugar. Use the
following chart when mixing colors:
Once
the secondary colors of orange, green, purple, and brown are made, coupled with
the three primary colors of red, blue and yellow, seven colors are now
available, suitable for any decorating.
When mixing the shades, add a little at a time until the desired shade
or color is obtained. Add a little
coloring at a time to the sugar to color it.
Always use pale or pastel shades and blend the colors tastefully.
|
Red Yellow |
Blue Yellow |
Red Blue |
Yellow Red Blue |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Orange |
Green |
Purple |
Brown/Black (Depending on
the amount used) |
Pouring
Procedure:
When pouring
sugar, pour one color at a time into the molds, beginning with light
colors. Keep the side of the pot clean
so the sugar will pour properly. Do not
let sugar accumulate on the outside of the pot because it will burn when it is
reheated and flow onto the stove. The
heat will also push up some of the burnt sugar and it will fly into the
pot. Rather than pouring, small areas
can be piped by using a large, strong, paper piping bag, placing it in a cone
shape to hold it while filling, and cutting the end off for piping. Close the bag well so the sugar will not
come out of the top.
To help the sugar
pieces stick together better, wipe the excess oil from the edge of the sugar
and, before pouring the next section, scrape the edge with a sharp knife.
Gluing:
The sugar has to
be completely set before it is glued together.
Sugar that is too warm will not have its full structure and will bend
when glued. For large pieces, the
pieces are dipped into cooked, clean sugar, or sugar that is the same color as
the piece, then quickly glued together.
For small pieces,
the back of the piece is heated over a clean flame until the surface starts to
bubble, then it is immediately attached to the other piece. A clean flame is one with not soot; use
alcohol, sterno burners, gas flames, or a gas torch. The more condensed the flame, the more control when using it.
The pieces must
be completely dry for gluing. If the
pieces are sticky from moisture they will not stick together. The stickiness can be removed by scraping it
off carefully using a small knife.
Pieces must not to too cold or they will crack when they are glued
together.
Pulled Sugar
In pulled sugar,
the sugar solution has been cooled a bit then stretched and folded to produce a
pliable paste that can be shaped into various forms.
It is necessary
to understand that sugar can only be pulled if it has the correct pliable
consistency which is determined by its temperature. If the sugar is cold it will be too hard, but if it is hot, it
will be too soft. While pulling, the sugar
is kept under a heating unit such as a heat lamp to keep it at the right working
consistency. The sugar is placed on a
piece of soft PVC, canvas, silk, or copper screen that has been stretched over
a wooden frame. This will keep the
sugar from touching the table. These
bases are used because the soft sugar will not stick to them.
Expertise in the
pulling of sugar into various shapes is developed through observation and
practice. It is best to begin with
simple shapes like flowers and leaves.
Once the pulled
sugar pieces are set and hard, they are glued together by melting a small
amount of they piece over a clean flame and then quickly assembling the parts.
Preparation of Pulled Sugar
Once the sugar
has been cooked, it is poured onto a very clean, lightly oiled marble
tabletop. If different colors are to be
made from one batch, the sugar can be poured into different sections and each
section tinted with food color as desired.
If only one color is desired, the sugar is tinted during the cooking.
Using a lightly
oiled bench scraper, quickly flip the edge of the sugar toward the center. As the sugar flows again, repeat this
procedure until the sugar is firm enough to be handled by hand. Fold the sugar with the cold side (side that
was against the marble) inside. Fold it
several times, until the sugar stops spreading.
Taking the sugar
in both hands, stretch it, then fold it back together. Repeat the stretching/folding technique
until the sugar is opaque and silky in appearance. Fold the sugar together to a bowl shape and place it under a
heating unit (heat lamp). The sugar
should rest on a piece of PVC, canvas, silk, 100% polyester, or a copper screen
that has been stretched over a wooden frame or a dipping screen.
Under those
conditions, the sugar is kept soft and pliable, and will not stick to any
surface; it is ready to be shaped into various shapes and forms.
Points to Remember about Pulled Sugar
F Do
not stretched pulled sugar too many times.
Pulling sugar more than what is needed will result in very white, dull,
and grainy (crystallizing) sugar. This
is referred to as the sugar “dying”.
F Do
not let the sugar get too hot (bubbling) under the heat lamp or in the
microwave oven, as this sugar will crystallize more readily.
F Use
latex gloves to work with the sugar if your hands sweat. Moisture on hands will cause the sugar to
become sticky, difficult to shape, and eventually crystallize.
F Do
not put small hard pieces of sugar back into the soft sugar. This may cause the sugar to crystallize.
F Unshaped
or leftover sugar pieces can be cooled, wrapped in plastic, and stored in a dry
area for future use. When used, slowly
reheat under a heat lamp or in the microwave.
F The
sugar can be poured into pie tins instead of onto a marble table. Allow to cool, remove from thins, wrap in
plastic, and store in a dry area. When
used, slowly reheat under a heat lamp or in a microwave, then stretch to make
it opaque and silky in appearance.
Blown Sugar
Blown sugar is
made from the same sugar used for pulled sugar. If the showpiece is to be large, the sugar is cooked to a higher
temperature. The soft sugar is blown
into different shapes, using a special pump, in a similar manner as to that of
glassblowing. Once the pieces are
removed from the pump and glued together using a clean flame. Smaller details are made from pulled sugar
and added to the blown piece.