A decent substitute for claw weights
-- Fork Weights!
If you have a Bond Knitting Machine, this page might have something good for you!!!
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Are you having problems? Suggestions for these subjects:
A decent substitute for claw weights
-- Fork Weights!
Collected suggestions for dropped stitches on the Bond ISM (Suggestions contributed by Bond List Members):
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Joining 2 ISMs together / Making a Super Bond ISM and a Mini Bond ISM
"This is what I did. I now have two 30 needle extensions (which I can use 1 or both added to my first ISM) and a second ISM with 40 needles that I can use as a separate machine for socks and things. You said that you already had 2 extensions, I think you should keep them. Any way here are the directions:
Take half of the machine and remove metal washers from the ends of the metal rod. This takes a little time and muscle.
Now remove the metal rod. It helps to have a second person holding the machine.
Next remove red needle rail (be CAREFUL not break these)
Remove the gray end piece.
Now you have 4 separate parts. You will need to put these together into 2 - 30 needle extensions. (You will need to take 10 needles from the second half of the machine to finish out the second extension). DO NOT REMOVE THE ROD FROM THE SECOND HALF OF THE MACHINE!!
Replace the gray end piece on the second half of the machine and you will have a small machine of 40 needles.
I used screws and washers to add my extensions into the middle of my first ISM. I took the black plastic screw and washer (the one that came with the machine to join the two parts together) to Lowe's and the man help me match them.
I use the smaller 40 needle bed to do swatches on. Also the two extensions you already have, could be added to the smaller 40 needle machine by removing the gray end piece and connecting them together with the plastic screw and washer. You might have to move some of your needles around to get your blank space on the end.
Another quick tip. I use masking tape in front and behind my needles when I have knitting on my machine if I have to move it or my daughter is playing around the machine. It keeps the stitches from falling off and the needles in the right position."
This is how I joined 2 ISM's (great notes from Sandy)
Flip original bond upside down (Bond #1)
Take a very small screwdriver and carefully pry off the metal disks on each end of #1 Bond.
Slip off the end caps. Pull each rod back (towards the center) just enough to clear the outside holes.
Remove plastic end pieces and put away.
Take Bond #2 (which is still in 2 halves), and hook 1/2 #2 to each end of Bond #1.
Now slip the metal rods back through the holes and replace the metal disks or just slip the rubber tips back onto the rods since they will provide enough tension to hold the parts together. (Nothing pulls on them anyway.)
Flip your Great Big Bond over.
Using a pair of pliers, with a piece of cloth or felt held in the jaws to protect the plastic, pull the red rails off the empty needle spaces. Also, pull up the rails over the outside 10 needles on each side.
Take the outside 10 needles, put them in the holes of the gap, and snap the rails back down. You need to take care that the rails are still level with the ones on either side.
Re-number needles.
Now, clamp your machine down, and knit something really, REALLY BIG!!
Linda in Southern California lsirbuly@eee.org
There are several ways to hook two Bonds (or parts there of) together. It kind of depends of what you want to do and how you plan to store it. Please keep in mind that these directions are just a general guide and that certains details may need to be worked out.
NOTE: You can get 1/4" diameter rods in most hardware stores.
Project 1 (least stable)
Remove the outside clips from both rods from one of the ISMs.
Slide the rods in until they are half way past the edge of the outside section.
Put clips back onto the rods and slide all clips up tight against the sections.
Remove the end pieces to make room for the other halves of the ISM.
Move the needles of each section that is not filled completely forward. Lift up on these needles to pop the red bar off.
Fill the "middle" sections with all needles and pop the red bars back on.
Connect all pieces with 1/4"x20 nuts, bolts and washers. Use metal ones instead of the plastic ones that come with the ISM.
Project 2 (stable)
Remove the outside clips from both rods from one of the ISMs.
Remove the rods and tap outside end of each rod.
Remove the end pieces of this ISM.
Re-insert the rods but instead of attaching the end pieces, attach half of the second ISM.
Fill the "middle" sections with all needles as described above. You now have two super bond halves that can be broken in half. Four pieces the same size length as the origional ISM. The center is still connected with a nut and bolt. Replace with a metal nut and bolt and use flat washers as well.
Project 3 (most stable)
Find a 1/4" rod long enought to fit the complete length of your ISM (two could be used if needed though it is less stable). Cut the rod to fit a quarter of the way into both the end sections.
You can connect by using rod clips or by threading the ends and using nuts.
Use nuts and bolts to hold the end caps.
Fill the middle sections with needles as above.
Note: By cutting threads into both ends of the rods you can use several shorter rods and 1/4"x20 couplers to connect them as one rod. You need to be sure of your measurements so that the couplers line up in the approximate center of the sections them are in.
How do you use that doggone Intarsia Keyplate?
Well it is real quick to knit blocks of two colors with the intarsia keyplate.
Cast on with waste yarn and knit several rows as normal.
Change to intarsia keyplate and knit one row with no yarn in the carriage. No, the stitches won't all drop off. The Intarsia keyplate will bring the needles forward into half knit position and needles open.
Now lay the yarn on the floor by your feet and lay the yarn across the needles, cross at the change point and lay the next color across the rest of the row.
Knit one row. Be careful not to bump the needles closed before laying the yarn in. I lightly hold the yarns and run them through my fingers as the intarsia keyplate pulls it. . . .
go for it, it isn't that bad once you play with it a little bit. . . . . TTYL -- Lea-Ann
Lea-Ann@knittingtoday.com http://www.knittingtoday.com
Bond Knitters' Club Online! -- http://www.userhome.com/knittingtoday
How to work a 1 stitch wide vertical stripe!
Think about latching up ribbing on the ISM:
When you rib, you are latching up from the side facing you, the rough side and it makes a purl stich on that side. So to make it like a knit stitch on the other side (smooth side) you must use your seed stitcher from the side away from you to do the latching up. You could do that row every ten or twenty rows as you knitted your afghan, and you would have the vertical stripe look like knitting on the right or smooth side, wouldn't you? It is the same technique as picking up stitches that have dropped and run. You use the seed stitcher to pick them up from the smooth side (knit) so they look just like the other knitted stitches.
shared by Lila in CA lmjones@gte.net
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This page updated November 16, 1998