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Moving on from the Rio Napo I returned by bus from Tena up the east slope of the Andes stopping at Baeza. A huge amount of oil pipeline construction work and traffic made the place a no go zone for birders so I walked a few miles up slope before catching another bus to Papallacta high in the Andes.
I stayed 2 nights there birding the valley above and below the hot springs and also several kilometres away at the pass summit. Andean specialities are found in the area including Andean Gull. Be warned it gets cold at this altitude at night and the weather can be terrible so come prepared with warm clothes and rain gear. I do recommend the area highly, not just for the birds but the scenery can be spectacular, a huge volcano, Volcan Antisana,(5753m) looms over the valley, but it is often hidden from view by clouds. Early morning is probably best to see the snow clad peak.
Papallacta is quickly and easily reached by bus from Quito and regular buses from Tena. There are several hotels in the village, the best and most expensive ($55) is at the busy hot springs at the head of the valley. There is a lovely nature trail behind the hotel. Cheaper quieter places are available near to the village for $10-15/night. Do try the trout dinners. Further up the main road the Papallacta Pass at nearly 4100m is a must do area for birding and walking. This is possibly the most easily accessible area of paramo in the country, the bird list is impressive, with lots of high altitude specialities. I spent an afternoon around the pass, there are several dirt roads leading from the main road. Away from the dirt roads the ground can be extremely boggy, so ending up thigh deep in mud and water can be expected. If you are not physically fit then give this site a miss as the high altitude could bother you. I walked a few kilometres from the pass summit late afternoon/evening towards the village listening to Tawny Antpittas and Owls before catching a bus back to the village. After sundown temperatures drop rapidly, so do come prepared with warm clothes, hat and gloves.
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Views at the Pass, lovely when I was there but bleak, windswept and inhospitable for much of the time. Idyllic!! The Pass is on the Continental Divide, water to the west goes to the Pacific, to the east the Atlantic, via the Amazon and its tributaries.
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