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Schuhplattlers use the word "Tracht" when referring to the costume they wear. Today's Tracht has descended from the clothing worn daily in parts of Germany, Austria, or Switzerland during the nineteenth century. Today, in the US, most Schuhplattler Vereine have chosen a style of Tracht that best represents the region of Germany from which their dances also come from. The Schuhplattler as a dance originated in Bavaria (southern Germany) and neighboring regions, so this is the type of Tracht most commonly seen.
* "Tracht" most properly refers to the type of costume that closely matches the actual clothing worn by men and women during that time period, the clothing we save for special occasions, this may also be known as "Voltracht" or "Festtracht." The less formal clothing worn more often may be referred to as "informal Tracht", "picnic Tracht", or simply as "Dirndl" (ladies only) and is subject to a little influence from modern fashion.
Auerhahn Festtracht:
The Auerhahn Schuhplattler Verein has chosen its Tracht from the Miesbach region of Bavaria at the foot of the Alps. For ladies, Festtracht consists of a black Trachtenmieder worn over a white blouse; full, green pleated skirt; and matching white satin brocade shawl and apron. Flowers, usually carnations, are tucked into the Mieder, which is laced in the front with a silver coloured chain, this chain is looped and pinned to the top of the Mieder. A white slip, pettipants, and stockings are worn under the skirt and the ensemble is completed by a green velour hat with white feather and the lady's necklace. Black dancing shoes, of course, are worn, we have chosen a style similar to mary-janes. For Men, Festtracht consists of Black Lederhosen held up by plain black Hosentrager (suspenders) with an Auerhahn embroidered onto the piece crossing the man's chest. A white long-sleeve shirt and green tie to match the ladies' skirts is worn under the Lederhosen and a green vest is worn on top. The men wear grey socks with green accents and black laced shoes designed for noisy dancing. The outfit is completed by a green velour hat with feather in a special holder, a vest-chain, and silver ring around the tie.
Auerhahn "Casual Tracht":
For informal occasions, ladies currently wear the green trachten skirt with a black bodice (soft mieder or "spencer"). A white blouse and matching cotton apron is worn, both feature eyelet lace. Again, white underthings, shoes, and jewelry (Schmuck) finish the look. Men wear their Lederhosen over a green and white checked shirt, again with tie that matches the ladies' Dirndln. The socks, shoes, hat, feather, and tie-ring are the same, however, no vest is worn.
Some easy-to-follow guidelines when wearing Tracht:
General:
Chewing gum and Tracht do not go together, on
or off the dance floor.
The Trachtenhut should sit straight, be
careful that it doesn't slip to the side. The hat should be worn at all
times, not left on tables, bars, or chairs. Ladies never wear the velour
Trachtenhut with the Dirndl. No pins other than the Gau pin, club pin, or
other approved pins may be worn on the hat, absolutely no plastic. The hat
is not a bulletin board.
Ladies:
An individual's apron and shawl should be of matching fabric,
although some variation may be seen between dancers. Apron hems should
cover the bottom velvet band of the skirt, apron ties should not overlap the
bottom band.
Plain, white cotton tights are
worn, no sheer, nylon hose. Pettipants
are trimmed with lace but not coloured ribbons.
Hats may
be held in place with an elastic band behind the head (matching hair colour,
please!), combs, or hairpins.
Schmuck,
all silver: Necklaces are the type with 3-4 chains looped onto a
pendant in the centre, or Kropfkette, check with Trachtenmutter or Vortanzerin.
Shawl pins should be approved by Vortanzerin or Trachtenmutter.
Approved bracelets and earrings (small) may be worn (bracelets only with
dirndl). Miederg’schnur should be
laced in a “Z” like pattern starting at the bottom, not the shoelace
style "X" pattern used in other Bavarian regions, please
consider this technique, I'd be happy to show you! A Miederstift- large
decorative pin like item may be used to anchor the end of the chain; this is an
optional item.
Make-up:
Keep to a minimum, neutral colours only, no eye make-up, only clear nail
polis
Hair: Should be worn off the face in a conservative style
such as a bun-Schopf (a must with full Tracht!) or braids (with dirndl
only), no bangs, please. Some
ladies like to add a hair extension if their natural hairstyle is too short to
form a Schopf; ask your Trachtenmutter for help.
Decorative Trachten hairpins are allowed,
check first if unsure; there should be no other types of decorative barrettes
with Festtracht.
Ladies may only smoke in Tracht when sitting
Gentlemen:
The Hosentrager design, The Auerhahn,
should be seen in the front notch of the vest.
Shirt sleeves should be worn long at
formal occasions, but may be rolled up at informal events.
The Trachtenvest must always be
buttoned.
If hair is long, it should be
groomed neatly and tucked under the hat
Jewlery other than wedding band
and "Trachten-style" ie: Chari-vari, etc should not be visible, no
earrings.
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