Displayed Steam Locomotives - Their Care and Maintenance

J. David Conrad

March 1974

No rights reserved, reproduce at will.

Reprinted May 1984 in cooperation with the Association of Railway Museums, Inc.

Online reprint November 2000, Friends of Locomotive #35, Inc.

Forward

In the period following the Second World War, as the railroad industry in the United States was making the transition from steam locomotives to diesel electrics, many towns and cities throughout the land felt a sense of loss at the passing of the age of steam. To commemorate the steam age and to pass on some notion of it to succeeding generations, steam locomotives were obtained and placed on display in parks. They brought back memories of a happier, less complex time. Parents and Grandparents took children to look at these relics and to relate what it was like to see one actually operating: the whistle down the tracks, the smoke and steam, the flash of the side rods and wheels, the sights, the sounds, and smells of what the steam locomotive was all about.

Today, in the United States, there are fewer than 3000 steam locomotives left in existence of probably better than 75,000 in 1945. Of these, only a handful still operate at museums and as tourist attractions. The majority of the locomotives today are in parks and fairgrounds, on courthouse lawns and next to the depot. They are, with precious few exceptions, outside, exposed to the elements, and to vandals. This is, of course, quite understandable. Due to the size of a locomotive, inside shelter is not practical. But even a huge piece of steel needs attentions and maintenance if it is to survive and look presentable. It is to that end that this pamphlet strives: the maintenance and preservation of steam locomotives on display.

This booklet’s creation was prompted by several factors. First, a majority of the steam locomotives on display in our country are in very poor physical shape. Second, when something like this becomes an eyesore, oftentimes no one really knows what to do about it. Third, when nothing is done, the locomotive is sometimes cut up for scrap. Our goal is to: offer tried and proved methods of display locomotive maintenance; offer suggestions for getting work done cheaply; be available for consultation on jobs of this nature; and, as a last resort, to provide help in the disposition of display locomotives.

Many, if not most, steam locomotives were not really prepared for display other than a fresh coat of paint. The following steps should be taken to insure a locomotives survival and to put it into a state where it will not deteriorate further.  (Refer to Figure 1, the location of some parts varies between different locomotives, also the quantities of some parts may vary.  For instance, some locomotives may have two sand domes or two air pumps) Basically, the only enemy which a locomotive has is rust and corrosive action, so the engines’ preservation is dependent upon: 1) Closing and sealing areas which admit water; 2) Removing anything that absorbs or holds water; 3) Cleaning and painting or greasing any part which comes in contact with the elements.

Fig 1.

Fig. 2

The preliminary work of visually restoring a locomotive involves cleaning out certain parts and sealing them from the elements. The entire smoke box (see Figures 1 and 2) should be swept, shoveled out and hosed down. All soot and ash must be removed as it holds moisture and speeds up the rusting process. Care should be taken to clean all the way back to the boiler tubes. The smokebox drain should be left open. The door should be bolted shut and the smokestack should have a round plate bolted over it to prevent rain from entering.

The sand dome should be emptied of sand, and the lid tack-welded on. The turbo-generator (dynamo) exhaust pipe should be capped. The cab roof hatches and tender tool boxes should be tack-welded shut. The firebox should be cleaned, firedoor could be tacked shut. The ashpan should be cleaned, ashpan hopper doors should be left open.

If the engine is a coal burner, the tender should be shoveled out and cleaned. If the tender floor has an opening with an Archimedes screw in it, this can be covered.

If the engine is an oil burner, the filler hatch should be bolted down. No cutting/welding should be done near oil tank. Vents should be covered and the dip stick bolted down.

Inside the water compartment, the rust and scale on the floor should be shoveled out. If moisture is present inside the tender, it would be advisable to cut a few 2-inch diameter holes in the floor at the low spots. Tender drain valves should be opened. If the tender top has standing water, several small holes can be drilled or cut in the side at the deck line. Tender water hatches should be tack-welded closed after cleaning tank.

Items such as headlights, bell, whistle, builder’s and number plates should be welded/brazed in place. Headlights should have a 1/2-inch diameter hole drilled in their bottoms to allow rain water to drain out. Glass in headlight (and elsewhere) can be replaced with plywood (painted silver), sheet metal or heavy clear sheet plastic.

Probably the most troublesome part of a display locomotive is its boiler jacket and the insulating material underneath (magnesia) (See Figure 3). The major problem is moisture saturating the insulation. Since the insulation never completely dries out, the thin sheet metal jacket rusts away allowing the insulation to fall out or leaving large holes through which the insulation oozes out.

Obviously, if the locomotive is under cover this problem may never arise, but few engines are so lucky. There are two ways of solving the problem. First, the jacketing could be carefully removed and a new jacket made using old pieces as patterns. Wooden blocks could be used a spacers instead of insulation. Second (and more practical) the jacket could be removed and discarded. The boiler and fire box could be scraper and chipped free of rust, primed and painted. Of course the boiler is not as neat appearing (exposed rivets and pipes) but there will be no more worries about the sheet metal. Several groups have used this method with success including Chicago’s Museum of Science and Industry. The main problems with jacket removal are a) appearance and b) historical accuracy.

To the untrained eye, there is no major difference to be noted rather than the fact that the boiler itself is viewed along with the rivets and pipes which are ordinarily hidden. But you must be close to the locomotive before the change is evident. It might also be noted that a bare painted boiler has a better look than a rusted out jacketed boiler.

From the historical aspect, it is true the engine has been altered from its original appearance. But once again, is a rusted out boiler jacket original? So the choice must be made between the two evils. The longer the jacket remains on, the greater the deterioration to the boiler. Although the boiler is constructed of 5/6 or 3/4-inch thick steel, it still rusts.

If it is desired that the old jacket be used as a pattern, care must be taken to number all pieces so as to not lose track of the placement of pieces. A good method is to number and initial all pieces by a) side (right or left), b) top or bottom, c) section number. Therefore, TR1 would be the top right side, first section, and so forth. Next, all handrails, steps, and pipes which are in the way must be removed or loosened enough to get the sheet metal through the space.

The sheet metal itself is held together by threaded rod at the top and/or bottom which can be taken apart easiest by cutting torch. After the sheet metal is free it can be maneuvered and stacked. The insulation can then be pulled off and disposed of.*  Any insulation which remains can be scraped off along with any rust. Usually a small chipping hammer will be sufficient for removing built up rust. For more persistent cases, an air powered chipper (jitterbug or needlegun) may be used. Special care must be taken around staybolts, rivets and boiler seams. Engines should not be sandblasted as sand will not get the heavy rust and the sand gets into the bearings to make it impossible to ever move the engine without damage.

After the heavy rust is removed a wire brush should be used to get the light rust after which the boiler and firebox can be primed and painted. Pipes which are covered with insulation should likewise be done.

If the boiler is left bare, the sheet metal can be torch-cut around handrails, etc., and discarded. The subsequent procedures are as noted above. This method is most practical for park engines. Once carried out, virtually all that need be done from then on is to paint the engine every so often.

Once properly prepared, an engine can be spray-painted easily in a day. Engine numbers can be covered with masking tape and then uncovered and touched up after the rest of the engine is painted. The best primer for both steel and wood is known as “Damp Proof Red” made by Rustoleum and other manufacturers. A good gloss black such as Rustoleum “H5” can be thinned (3 parts paint to 1 part thinner) for spraying through a blow pipe. For a graphite colored smoke box, mix 1 part number 2 flake graphite with 5 parts boiled linseed oil. This must be painted on by hand. All wood should be treated with “Penta” or “Bloxrot” liberally before painting. Paint wood by hand as it soaks up far more paint.

The machinery (moving parts) of a locomotive doesn’t need much maintenance. Going through the following procedure should be sufficient. By doing so, the engine’s mobility (should the need ever arise) will be assured.

Remove cotton waste or pads from all journal boxes (See Figure 4) on engine and tender. Smear grease on as much of the bearing surface of each axle as possible. On locomotives with hard grease lubrication on driving wheel axles (See Figure 5) the grease block must be pulled down by pulling on the hooks or chains from the spring plate. Grease can then be smeared along axle with a swab or a stick. Care must be taken to get grease to the back of the axle.

All piston rods should be greased as well. This includes not only the main pistons but the valve stem (directly above the main piston), air pump and power reverse pistons. Crossheads should also be greased.

Cylinders should have several gallons of oil poured into them. All other machinery (rod cranks, valve gear, etc.) should be oiled freely. Oil cups should be filled and covered.

Drains on all pipes and appurtenances should be left open (air pumps, power reverse, hydrostatic lubricator, etc.).

Should the locomotive ever have to be moved, all axles should be emory-clothed free of rust before any movement is attempted. cylinders should be kept well oiled as well as other machinery. A knowledgeable railroad man should supervise this work.

There are many organizations which may be interested in the restoration of a locomotive as a volunteer activity. In addition to model railroad clubs, railfan groups and local railroad unions, groups such as the Scouts, junior Chambers of Commerce, Fraternities, Sororities, VFW, Lions, etc. may help in organizing a project like this. Another possibility might be operators of steam locomotives. Tourist railways and museums which operate steam locomotives have problems locating replacement parts as parts wear out. Operators might be interested in visually restoring a locomotive for the privilege of exchanging worn parts for usable parts.

It is hoped that this booklet has provided sufficient information for anyone to visually restore a display steam locomotive. Possibly a trend towards getting these engines looking decent again will begin due to this publication.

In the event that any locomotive must be disposed of, the Illinois Railway Museum will try to act as a clearing house in finding a new location for it. We will also try to recommend qualified help for restoration jobs and generally be available for consultation on any aspect of locomotive restoration.

* The insulation used on most steam locomotives contained asbestos.  At the time of the original writing of this asbestos removal and disposal was a simple matter.  In the intervening years there has been a major shift in how asbestos is handled.  In many, if not all, parts of the U.S. asbestos can only be removed and disposed of by certified personnel.  If you are planning to remove the insulation from a locomotive have a sample of it analyzed.  If it does contain asbestos check your local laws regarding asbestos removal.

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