Ancient/historical sites |
Folklore/customs and superstitions |
Haunted sites |
References/ further reading |
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Updated: 26/5/2006
When thinking of places of myth, legend and ancient sites one could be forgiven for not immediately thinking of Birmingham and the Midlands, but despite heavy development, industrialisation and large population many sites of interest remain and many customs and legends can be attributed to the area.
Modern life and the advancement of science leave little room for the beliefs and customs of our distant, and not so distant, past and we are in great danger of losing them altogether. These customs and beliefs are as important to our understanding of our past as any castle or earthwork, (more important perhaps to the common man wishing to understand his own ancestors).
Many customs continue and we are not even aware of them let alone their origins. For instance, how many of us put a cross in the top crust of a pie ‘to let the steam escape’? Surely a little slit would do as well as a cross? We do it because our mothers did it and their mothers before them and it has its origins in an old custom of using the cross as a means of protecting food from witches etc. These days we have no need to know where the food on our table came from let alone deal with otherworldly spirits and gods to ensure its existence and protection.
Before the advent of piped water, that we all now take for granted wells and springs were the only source of useable water. The miracle of fresh water springing straight out of the earth was something to be grateful for and many early people revered these sites. The Celts saw wells as entrances to the otherworld and both they and the Romans would make offerings at water sources to the spirits of the well. Wells were often used for healing and it was a custom to tie to a nearby tree a piece of cloth that had been in contact with the affected part in the belief that as the cloth rotted so the sickness would pass away. These trees are known as ‘cloutie’ trees. Christianity, unable to stop the worship of these wells, took them over and gave them saint’s names or built churches near to or even over them. Wells could also be used for cursing or wishing.
Certain times of the turning year were seen by the Celts as times when barriers between the physical world and the otherworld vanished and interaction between the two realms could take place (places such as bridges and the seashore were also seen as gateways between the worlds). These were times needing extra protection.
ÓDorn 2006
All map references based on ordnance survey landranger maps
More sites to be added when possible
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Dorstone, Hereford and Worcester
This Neolithic (4200-2200BC) burial chamber has a 25-ton capstone supported by nine uprights. There are also the remains of an approach passage. There are 3 legends attached to the stones, one say’s that Arthur himself is buried underneath another that it is the grave of a king killed by Arthur and the third that it is the grave of a giant killed by the king. It is in the care of English heritage and is free to visit.
Wolverhampton
Next to St. Peters church stands a holed stone through which people would shake hands to seal a bargain. There is also an old Saxon cross standing nearby.
See photo in gallery
This Norman Motte and Bailey is possibly built upon an ancient British fort.
It was built by Thurstan de Montfort in the early 12th century originally just an oval ringwork with two outer baileys with a stone keep added at the end of the century. Peter de Montfort added a curtain wall with round towers. He was killed at the battle of Evesham in 1265. By the end of the 16th century all stonework had been removed.
It was recently the site of an archaeological dig by the television program Time Team.
Map ref: SP244790
Situated just south of the church, this well has a large stone tank and was probably used for immersion baptisms. The well was a water source for the village right up until the 1940’s. On the village green there is an old set of stocks, unusually these stocks have 5 leg holes said to have been made for a drunken one-legged soldier and his two friends.
See photo in gallery
The berry mound is an early (Iron Age) earthwork near Wythall. It was previously known as ‘the Danes camp’, but as no excavation has taken place very little is known about it except that it pre-dates Christianity.
This timber framed Elizabethan farmhouse was built by Richard Smallbroke in 1590. Some of the 12 rooms are furnished to look as they did in 1684 when an inventory of the contents was drawn up. In the garden you can see the latest resting place of the Gilbertstone.
See photo in gallery
Shropshire
Charles II hid in this house and nearby Oak tree, known as the Royal Oak, from Cromwell’s soldiers after his defeat at the battle of Worcester in 1651. The house is in the care of English Heritage and can be visited.
All that remains of this once prosperous little market town is the 12th Century church of All Saints and its holy well. In the area of Pleasant Hill there was a Saxon burial ground. The area is now a country park. See also hauntings. See photo in gallery
The colliery at Cannock goes back to the Norman Conquest. Henry 3rd granted the town’s market charter in 1259 and it was an important market town for centuries. The parish church of St. Luke is said to have had a charity and a grammar school linked to it as early as 1143. To the north of the town lies Cannock Chase; covering some 20 thousand acres it was once the hunting ground of Norman kings. Deer can still be seen here. The chase has been used by the military for training and as a prisoner of war camp. Five thousand Germans from the First World War are buried here. There is also a museum here.
Also to be found here is Castle ring, an Iron Age hill fort, see below.
An Iron Age hillfort. Five sided with two banks and ditches. On the south and southeast side there are five banks and ditches. Entrance is on the east, where the innermost bank is inturned.
Hidden away amongst the holly trees this well was covered by an old and ugly concrete housing. On my last visit in 2005 it had been demolished by a fallen tree. It is also known as St. Mary’s well.See photo in gallery
Dudley Castle was built by the Normans in 1071ad. It was destroyed by Henry second in 1175 after the then owner; Gervase paganel supported his son’s rebellion. In 1264 license was granted to repair the site. John Dudley, in the 16th century, rose high in King Henry the eighth’s favour and was created Viscount Lisle, Earl of Warwick and Duke of Northumberland. He acquired the castle in the 1530’s and rebuilt it in the Renaissance style. He was beheaded by Queen Mary for his attempt to put Lady Jane Grey on the throne. In 1643 the castle passed to the Wards. A fire all but destroyed the accommodation at the Castle in 1750 forcing the family to move to nearby Himley Hall. Descendents of the family founded the zoo at the castle in 1937.
Warwickshire
On the 5th November 1605 the conspirators involved in the gunpowder plot met at the Red Lion Inn at Dunchurch to await news of the attempt by Guy Fawkes to blow up the houses of parliament. Today the Inn is a private house. The area is a designated conservation area complete with village green, stocks and maypole.
The old smithy is said to be the inspiration of Longfellow’s “Under a spreading chestnut tree”.
Hereford and Worcester
Elmley Castle village is full of beautiful old cottages; there is also a 15th century stone cross at one end of the street.
Robert D’Abitot built a castle within the ramparts of an Iron Age hill fort on Bredon Hill in 1090. When Roberts nephew was disinherited for slaying a royal servant the castle passed via his sister to Walter de Beauchamp, who’s son William strengthened the castle during the wars of the 1140’s. Elmley remained the foremost castle in Worcester and chief Beauchamp seat until the family inherited the earldom of Warwick along with its castle in 1267. Elmley castle was then left to decay.
The Gilbertstone is a glacial deposit that was used as a boundary stone where the parishes of Sheldon, Bickenhill and Yardley met. It is now kept in the gardens of Blakesley Hall, Yardley. It has a legend attached to it involving a hobgoblin, see folklore section.
See photo in gallery
A cave cut into the rock of Guy’s Cliffe was the home of one time hero, turned hermit, Guy of Warwick. There is also a well here named, aptly enough, Guys well.
The cave and well are on land now owned by the Masons, who allow public access on one day a year only, (though sometimes not even that).
In sight of Guy’s Cliffe is Blacklow Hill, which was once a Saxon burial ground. Standing on top of the hill is a monument marking the spot where Piers Gaveston, favourite of Edward II, was executed. There are many hauntings in the area.
Hobs moat road, Solihull.
This double-ramparted, moated platform stands next to Lode lane, Solihull. Excavations in the 1980’s led to the conclusion that it was a medieval moated homestead. Writing in the 1780’s William Hutton says
“At Oltenend (Olton) originally Odingsell’s moat, now Hobb’s-moat, the ancient manor house of Solihull, after it changed its lords at the conquest. The property, as before observed, of Edwin Earl of Mercia, in the reign of Edward the confessor. William the first granted the manor to a favourite lady, named Cristina, probably a handsome lass, of the same complexion as his mother. This lady having tired the arms of royalty was conveyed into those of an humble favourite; Ralph de Limesie married her, who became lord of the place, but despising Ulverly, erected this castle.”
There was a site of similar size and style in Cheswick Green called the mount, which has since been developed. The mount has been described as dating from prehistoric times/ Roman times/ Saxon times AND medieval times!Photo ingallery
Map ref: SJ 672034
Britain’s best-known industrial monument, the Worlds first iron bridge built in 1779, over the river Severn, and now a world heritage site.
Map ref: SP 107966
This well feeds keepers pool and was named after one John Holt who was keeper in the time of Edward IV. On my last visit in 2005 the masonry had deteriorated and weeds were growing within it. See photo in gallery
The castle started life as a royal castle built 50 years after the Norman Conquest. Richard the first put the castle into a defensible state before going off to the crusades. King John, who made the great lake into one of its best features, extended it. Kenilworth was one of 4 royal castles, which the barons of the Magna Carta demanded be surrendered as surety. Edward II was briefly imprisoned here before going on to Berkley Castle and his death. The Castle passed into the hands of the Dudley family in the 16th Century, Robert Dudley being most famous as a favourite of Queen Elizabeth I, who visited the castle. It reverted to the crown early in the reign of Charles first. After the Civil war it was partially demolished by Roundhead troops, and fell into greater disrepair thereafter until English Heritage acquired it. Historical re-enactments are often done here.See photo in gallery
Birmingham
Map ref: SK 081957
Very little remains of this prehistoric mound, which stands now in a busy housing estate. It is said that Charles the first addressed his troops from the mound before the battle of Edgehill, hence the name.
This Barn is the largest of its kind in Britain. Built for the monks of Pershore Abbey in the 14th Century. It is in the care of English Heritage.
Free entry.
Warwickshire
Map ref: SP 177454
The earthwork on the summit of Meon hill is Iron Age, though Neolithic artefacts have also been found here. The fort has been damaged by the plough. In 1824 a hoard of 394 currency bars were found here. There is a story of a labourer who, while ploughing the field on the top of the hill, unearthed a stash of gold coins. Instead of handing it in to his employer he kept it and grew so prosperous that he could marry his daughter to one of the noble families of Warwickshire.
The Midlands has been a popular venue for battles throughout history. These are some of the better-known battles:
Shropshire
Map ref: SO 306984
This Bronze-Age stone circle was once the home of a magical cow, which would supply the local people freely as long as they filled only a pail. A witch named Mitchell or Medgel, tried to cheat the cow by milking her into a sieve. The trick failed and the witch was turned to stone. A similar story is told of the Dun Cow before she turned nasty. At the Church of the Holy Trinity at Middleton-in-Chirbury there is a carved capital showing a witch in a tall hat milking a cow. There are 15 visible stones.See photo in gallery
Standing in the village of Eyam, this well is also known as the plague well.
When plague came to the village in 1665 the villagers in a selfless act of self-sacrifice agreed, after persuasion from the rector William Mompesson, that no one should leave the village for fear of spreading the plague. In a 14-month period 260 villagers out of a population of less than 400 died. Supplies for the village were exchanged for money left at the well. The well is dressed in late august and an open-air service is held in memory of Mompesson and his parishioners.See photo in gallery
Immediately North of Oldbury village is the Iron Age Oldbury camp. A bank and ditch enclose a rectangular area. The original entrance has not been identified.
Warwickshire
This house was originally 16th Century. It was restored and extended in the 20th Century. The garden is famous for its collection of yew trees. It is said that Charles II was given refreshment at Packwood after his defeat at the battle of Worcester in 1651. It is now in the care of the National trust.
Map reference: SP170728
Boudicca’s last battle against the Romans took place in the Midlands.
Upon the death of Prasutagus, chief of the Celtic Iceni tribe, half of his holdings went to his daughters and half to the Roman Emperor. The Roman governor, unhappy with just half, seized the girls share, flogged Boudicca publicly and had her daughters raped. Boudicca raised an army of over 100,000 and set out to avenge herself and her daughters and rid Britain of the Romans. Colchester was her first port of call followed by Londinium where she slaughtered its 20,000 inhabitants and burned the City to the ground. Roman chroniclers of the day stated that Boudicca was responsible for the deaths of 70,000 Romans. When her army reached the Midlands it was to find that they were outnumbered 4 to 1. In the battle that followed most of the Celts were slaughtered. Boudicca herself took poison rather than face being a Roman prisoner.
Nobody knows with any certainty where in the Midlands this battle took place although Atherstone has been suggested.
Map ref: SP 296308
Warwickshire/Oxfordshire border
The king’s men is the main circle of stones at this Bronze age group numbering approximately 70 stones.
A few yards east is the kings stone, a single standing stone. A quarter of a mile east stand the whispering knights, probably the remains of a burial chamber.
See also folklore.See photo in gallery
This is a healing well, with a low circular wall. Worked timbers were found near this well, thought to be the remains of a track way, similar to others built across wet areas elsewhere in Britain, in prehistoric times. On my last visit in 2005 the masonry had deteriorated. See photo in gallery
Warwickshire
Map ref: SP 410618
Steps lead down to a trough, which runs along the straight edge of the semi circular pool. Water would once have poured through the three 14th century carved heads, said to represent man, woman and child. The well was mentioned in a charter of King Ethelred in 998 BC and in common with many other wells is said to be effective in curing eye problems. The water level has dropped dramatically in recent times, apparently caused by the water treatment works re-routing the source. The holy well is marked on ordnance survey maps. Park in the little car park in the corner of the playing fields which is next to the sewage works, there is a public footpath through the sewage works and across two fields.
On the eve of the battle of Evesham, Charles 1st stayed the night at the “old mint inn” in Southam. The old mint inn is a 14th century stone building so called as following the battle of Edgehill, Charles 1st commanded local noblemen to bring him their silver treasure which was melted down and minted into coins to pay his army. See photo in gallery
The present ruins and earthworks at Stafford are the remains of the castle built by the son of Roger de Toeni who was granted the manor by William the Conqueror. The family adopted the name of de Stafford. Edmund, Earl of Stafford was killed at the battle of Shrewsbury in 1403 leaving an infant son, Humphrey, who married into the Buckingham family and so obtained more property with the duchy of Buckingham. Elizabeth the first was entertained at the castle in 1575 but it was afterwards neglected. In 1639 the barony was granted to Sir William Howard, husband to Mary Stafford and when the civil war broke out in 1642 the elderly Isabel, lady Stafford was still living in the tower house. She fortified the castle for the king. After a minor skirmish nearby in 1643 the castle was besieged by parliamentary troops. At the end of that year the castle was ordered to be demolished. The castle gradually became uninhabitable and was declared unsafe in 1950. A boy was killed playing in the castle in 1961 when he was crushed by falling masonry and Stafford council then demolished most of the upper parts. The remains are open to the public.
Lichfield
In the churchyard of the medieval church of St. Chad in Lichfield is the holy well of St. Chad. This is the place where St. Chad used to baptise people in the 7th century. Well dressing was revived here in 1995 and is an annual event.
Halesowen
The well stands in the grounds of the church in the village of Romsley. Where the water actually rises there is a rag (cloutie) tree. There is also a more modern brick built basin with a long channel running from it. The legend attached to the well says that Kenelm son of Kenulph king of Mercia was a boy king whose sister and foster father wished him dead. One day taking him hunting in the Clent hills, and while the boy was kneeling in prayer, the foster father beheaded him and hid his body under a thorn tree. From here the well flows
See photo in gallery
Sutton Coldfield
Sutton Park is a remnant of the ancient forest of Arden. The area has been in use since prehistoric times. Prehistoric burnt mounds have been found, including six near Streetly lane, which were exposed by a fire in 1926. Pits were found under the larger two mounds. They are thought to be Bronze Age. (There are 40-50 burnt mounds in Birmingham and the Black Country). There is also the ruin of a Roman road through Sutton Park. There are 3 ancient wells in the park, druids well, keepers well and Rowtons well all sadly neglected.
Sutton Park was a deer park by 1126 and in the 16th Century was one of the favourite hunting grounds of Henry VIII. The park was used by the military in the both world wars and there was even a prisoner of war camp there.See photo in gallery
Tamworth was the Capital of Saxon Mercia. The castle mound is thought to have been built by Robert Marmion, who held the office of Royal Champion whereby he was expected to attend coronations in full battle dress and fight anybody who opposed the coronation of the monarch. The castle was rebuilt in stone in the 12th century. After the Marmion family line died out in 1294 Edward the first granted the castle to Sir Alexander de Freville who acted as Royal Champion at Edward the 3rds coronation. In 1423 the castle passed to Sir Thomas Ferrers. The castle was visited 3 times by James the first and was garrisoned for Charles first in 1642 but captured by parliamentary troops in 1643. In the 1790’s the hall in the keep was rented out to Robert Peel for use as a forge connected to his nearby factory. From 1899 the keep was used as the town museum.
Warwickshire
Temple Balsall is named after the Knights Templar, a band of crusading knights allegedly set up to protect pilgrims on route to the holy land. In 1162 Roger de Mowbray gave the Manor of Balsall to the Knights Templar, and they built the Hall and Chapel on a small hill. The Knights Templar were also gifted land at Cubbington, Harbury, Tysoe, Wolvey, Studley, Warwick, Chilverston, Sherbourne, Fletchhampstead, Temple Herdwicke and others. Temple Balsall was the headquarters for all of these. In 1307 the Knights Templar were disbanded by the Pope, and their properties were transferred to the Knights Hospitaller, who built St Mary’s Church. Henry VIII disbanded the Knights Hospitaller during his dissolution of the Monasteries and the Manor came into the hands of the Crown. Elizabeth I gave the Manor to Robert Dudley, owner of Kenilworth Castle, who was a favourite of hers.
J R R Tolkien lived in various areas of Birmingham including Sarehole, Moseley, Kings Heath and Ladywood. He attended King Edward School, Birmingham. The site where it once stood in New Street is now marked with a blue plaque. He moved to Oxford when he gained a place at Exeter College, Oxford. He is most famous for his fantasy novels, The Hobbit and the Lord of the Rings trilogy.
Places associated with Tolkien include:
· Moseley Bog; once a mill pool and also the site of two Bronze Age ‘burnt mounds’. Now a local nature reserve
· Perrot’s folly; A 96 foot tower standing near a later Victorian tower, part of Edgbaston Waterworks, inspired the ‘two towers of Gondor’ In the second book of the Lord of the rings trilogy.
Tysoe means “Tiw’s hill spur” after the Saxon God, and was once known as the vale of the red horse after a horse that was carved into the red soil of the hillside. The figure of the horse has now gone but was once on a farm at Temple Tysoe known as red horse farm. The historian William Dugdale tells us “within the precinct of that manor ofTysoe, there is cut upon the side of Edgehill (see also hauntings) the proportion of a horse in a very large form which by reason of the ruddy colour of the earth is called the red horse and giveth denomination to that fruitful and pleasant country thereabouts, commonly called the Vale of the Red Horse; the trenches of the ground, where the said horse is cut out, being yearly scoured by a freeholder in this lordship, who holds certain lands there by that service.”The figure was scoured yearly on Palm Sunday until 1800 when it was ploughed out. The attempt by S. G. Wildman, in the 1960’s to rediscover the figure is described in his book ‘the black horseman’. He found not just the figure of a horse but also that of a man, a bird a horse and further down the slope another possible horse.
William the first built the first motte and bailey castle beside the River Avon at Warwick. Henry de Beaumont was installed as constable and was made Earl of Warwick by William the second. Guy Beauchamp held Piers Gaveston, favourite of Edward the 2nd, prisoner here in 1312 before he was executed on Blacklowe Hill. In 1449 the castle passed to Anne wife of Richard Neville (aka The Kingmaker) heir to the Earl of Salisbury, who was confirmed Earl of Warwick.
He was killed in the battle of Barnet in 1471 and Edward 4th granted castle and Earldom to his brother George, Duke of Clarence who was executed for treason in 1478. Warwick castle then passed into the hands of John Dudley when he was created Earl of Warwick in 1547. Elizabeth the first visited Ambrose Dudley at the castle twice, in 1566 and 1572, after whose death the castle passed into royal hands. In 1604 James 1st granted the castle to Sir Fulke Greville. In 1978 the castle was sold to Madame Tussauds who continue to hold it to this day.See photo in gallery
Wooton Wawen is a Saxon village dominated by the church of St. Peter, which still has the Saxon tower. Wooton hall dates from 1637, Maria Fitzherbert, wife of George 4th spent her childhood here.
A prominent Iron Age hillfort. At the South West end is a low round mound, possibly a bronze age round barrow. See also folklore.
An Iron Age hill fort, triangular in shape covering 9.2 hectares. It has strongly inturned entrances at the east and west corners. On the south side there is a smaller hill. There are many ancient Yew trees on it. Ironwork including horse fittings were found here during excavation.
Birmingham
Now in Birmingham, Yardley was once a separate manor belonging to Worcester. Old Yardley village is a conservation area. It includes:
St. Edburgha was a granddaughter of King Alfred. The church is made of red sandstone and was begun in the in the thirteenth century. The nave and transepts are early 14th century; the north aisle was added in the late 14th century, the porch 15th century and the tower and vestry late 15th century. The church stands in a pedestrian only conservation area. Behind the church there is medieval ridge and furrow to be seen in the parkland. Next to the church is a Tudor timbered building originally used as a schoolhouse in 1575 and was in use until 1908. There has been a school on the site since the 13th century when it was owned by Maxstoke priory. It is now used as parish rooms and youth club. See photo in gallery
ÓDorn 2006
The Midlands shares many customs and superstitions with other areas, but some have a Midland slant.
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One of the oldest surviving customs is the annual horn dance. Allegedly held to commemorate the attainment of hunting rights for the villagers at Needwood forest. The reindeer antlers used in the dance are very old and were dated to about 1065AD. The dance takes place on the first Monday after the first Sunday after the 4th September and covers about 20 miles with stops for performances around the village and at farms and pubs around it. It consists of 6 men carrying the horns followed by a hobbyhorse, a fool, a Robin-Hood figure and a Maid Marion.
See photo in gallery and Calendar
The smiths of Alcester were renowned for their industriousness. They worked ceaselessly seven days a week not even stopping for Sunday. As they worked they sang. St. Ecgwyn (sometimes St. Chad) visited the town to preach and the smiths carried right on working. The saint, unable to make himself heard above the hammering and singing, cursed them that they should have tails. The smiths, turned to beasts, could no longer work and the industry went into decline never to be revived. See also hauntings.
At Rogationtide the priests and civic leaders would tour the boundaries of the parish and stop periodically to listen to readings from the gospels. The readings often took place under Oak trees, which became known as Gospel Oaks. One such Oak in Birmingham gave its name to the district that still bears the name.
A tradition recorded as late as the 1950’s in the Midlands, was for a mother to lick the birthmark on her baby as soon as possible after the birth and every morning before she had eaten for up to thirty days or until it disappeared.
1.Old Sir Robert Bolton had 3 sonsWind well thy horn, good hunter; and one of them was Sir Ryalas, for he was a jovial hunter |
9.Then they fought four hours in a long summer day; wind well thy horn, good hunter; till the wild boar fain would have got him away from Sir Ryalas, the jovial hunter. |
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