The Overview Page

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My RIMS System Overview
There are many RIMS systems, descriptions, discussions and dedicated sites here on the Internet. I will not duplicate that information here. The intent of the Big Fun Brewing site is to explain my system in the spirit of all who have helped me in my journey. I stand on the shoulders of those before me. Thank you.
A good place to view a number of RIMS (Recirculation Infusion Mash System) online is the Home Breweries Site at:
http://www.axess.com/users/jsm-mv/homebrewery/homebreweries.html
After seeing a traditional RIMS brewery in action, I had to have one. There are pros and cons to building a RIMS system that should be considered before starting a project like this. Make a list and check it twice before you make the commitment of time and money. A RIMS system is not needed to brew quality beer and in fact, it can get in the way! The pros outweighed the cons for me.
I decided on the following RIMS design parameters:

Affordable.
Made from readily available materials. One high temperature pump. One propane tank and regulator.
Transportable and Storable.
Basement storage. Quick set up and take down. Outdoor or garage use.
Low Electrical Power Demands.
Use on 15-amp circuit with extension cord. No element type heating chambers or other high power requirements.
Simple to Use.
No complicated computer controls, programmable PID controllers, old PC's, etc. (I am a botanist, not an Electrical Engineer.)

After reviewing all the printed and online RIMS information that I could get my hands on, I decided on the Heat Exchange Manifold (HEMan) design. Check out Precision Brewing Systems WEB site for details on their commercial HERMS ™ system. This type of system best fit my design criteria. The traditional and original (1992 Zymurgy issue) Rodney Morris RIMS design was too complicated and relied too heavily on homebrewed electronic controls or newer and very expensive commercial process control electronics.

My RIMS is based on a 2 tier, 1/2 bbl keg design with three separate metal stands that are transportable to my basement for storage. The brewery has three vessels, a hot liquor tank (HLT), a mash tun/lauter tun and a brew kettle.

The brewery uses one high temperature pump, one propane tank and one high-pressure regulator and it operates on a 15-amp GFI circuit with extension cord and no fancy/expensive electronics. The Heat Exchange Manifold heating loop consists of 25 feet of 1/2 inch OD copper tubing coiled inside the HLT. In order to maintain precise mash temperatures, the mash liquid is recirculated through this heating manifold coil and returned to the mash tun. The HEMan RIMS does require regular hands on attention during the brew session. There is an auto sparge system that regulates the sparge water flow to the mash tun/lauter tun.

After brewing with the system the first year, I redesigned the original mechanical float valve for the auto sparge. It was the most troublesome part of my system right from the beginning. After conversations with Bill Stewart from Moving Brews (Thanks Bill!), I eliminated the mechanical valve and installed an electrical control valve (see Joe Stone's Brewery site). Thanks Joe!

I added a 110 volt, ½ inch NPT solenoid valve, controlled by a Madison float switch, to complete the new auto sparge system. The combination of recirculation, auto sparge system, high quality imported malt and a JSP MaltMill (Thanks Jack!) are the keys to getting a consistent 90% + brew house efficiency. The solenoid valve also solves other design problems. The Madison float switch allows the pump to run only when sparge water is needed instead of the entire 90-minute runoff. The solenoid valve also prevents any back siphoning through the pump.

I brew both 5 gallon and 10 gallon batches. With this system, a 5 gallon batch has become a 'pilot brew' for first time recipes. It is just as easy to brew 10 gallons. If I am going to set aside the 8 hours that an all grain batch usually takes, I might as well do the 10 gallon batch. The 10 gal batches are a just little trickier to monitor because of the thermal mass of the 20 + lbs. of grain.

The mash tun can also be directly bottom heated for fast step mash boosts in 10 gallon batches with extra large grain bills. The mash/lauter tun manifold screen is open in the center and the mash can be stirred to the bottom while heat is applied. The return manifold must be moved to stir the mash.

With the HEMan RIMS system, I keep the HLT water at 180F degrees. The heated mash/wort exits the return manifold in the mash tun less than 160F degrees. This minimizes enzyme degradation and keeps my wort attenuation in line with yeast specifications. Complete mash conversion with most RIMS is usually 30 minutes or less. I never have a problem boosting temps and can easily over shoot temps if left unattended. I installed a digital thermometer probe with an audio alarm to avoid this problem. This is the only argument for further automation of the system. I have had little luck finding a suitable controlling thermometer with a narrow differential for this application. If you find a suitable controlling thermostat for this application let me know.

I keg and refrigerate all my brews and usually consume them within 3 months, so I leave the debate of HSA (Hot Side Aeration) and RIMS systems to the confines of the HBD.org (Home Brew Digest).

Stopped keeping track of the costs of my system after $500. Spent about $200 on pump, hoses and the quick connectors. They make setup and take down a 'snap'... Took me a year to build from concept design to first all grain RIMS batch.

My system is a lot of fun to brew on. In fact, I named it
'Big Fun Brewing' after the first batch.

Lessons Learned

Take advantage of everyone else's lessons learned!