Pilgrim Clothing

WOMEN:

A woman's undergarment was a long off-white short-sleeved, linen shirt, resembling a modern-day woman's nightshirt except that it was ribbon-tied at the collar and cuffs and fastened in the front.  One or more ankle-length, waist-fastened petticoats were worn.  The dress, or gown, consisted of two parts, a bodice and a skirt--sometimes the sleeves were a separate part as well, being tied to the bodice.  The bodice or the skirt could be the same or different colors, and were made of wool.  The bodice buttoned all the way down the front.  The skirt was ankle-length and gathered at the waist.  A long-sleeve fitted waistcoat was often worn over the top, and an apron was worn if the woman was doing any kind of work.  Women occasionally wore lace collar and cuffs, and a cloak.  Women's hair was always worn up and pulled tightly back, and worn under a coif (bonnet) or hat.

Common colors include  red, earthy greens, browns, blues, violets, and grays.  Contrary to popular myth, black and white clothing was clearly not the most common colors worn.  An examination of the probate inventories of many early Plymouth women reveal a large variety of colors.  Mary Ring, a long-time member of the Pilgrim's church in Leyden, and married to one of the more prominent members of the church, had her estate inventory taken in 1631.  She had in her possession at that time: one waistcoat "of mingled color", two violet waistcoats, three blue aprons, two white aprons, one black apron, a red petticoat, a violet petticoat, white stockings, blue stockings, and also had some red cloth, grey cloth, and blue cloth ready for sewing.  Desire (Gorham) Howland, daughter of Mayflower passenger John Howland, had a green apron, red stockings, white apron, and black cloak in her estate inventory.

MEN:

For the upper body, men usually wore a long, short-sleeved, off-white linen shirt, with collar.  On top of that he wore a doublet, which was relatively close-fitting, with long sleeves, broad padded shoulders, and buttoned down the front with tabs at waist.  A cloak was often draped over the shoulders.  A lace collar and cuffs were worn, as was a felt hat or cap.  Older or more revered men often wore over the top of everything a full-length wool gown similar to a modern-day bathrobe.

For the lower body, breeches were usually worn.  Breeches are front-buttoning pants which extend to the knee level, and were relatively baggy.  Stockings were knee-length, and resemble modern-day women's opaque tights.  Shoes were generally low-heel, low cut leather shoes.

Whites, beiges, blacks, earthy greens, and browns were the predominant colors in men's clothing.  Contrary to popular stereotype, buckles were not worn on hats, shoes, belts, or anywhere else, nor was black the predominant color except for on Sunday or formal occasions.  From the probate inventories of Plymouth Colony, we learn that Governor William Bradford had a green gown, violet cloak, lead colored suit with silver buttons, and a red waistcoat. Elder William Brewster had green drawers, a red cap, a violet coat, and a blue suit.  And Mayflower passenger John Howland had a red waistcoat listed in his inventory.

PHOTOGRAPH patched from: ArchNet Plimoth Plantation Photos: University of Connecticut Library

CHILDREN:

Young boys (to about age 8) and girls both wore dresses ("gowns"), generally made of either wool or linen.  The skirt was full length, and the bodice was long sleeved and laced in the back, with a high neckline.  The color blue was common for children--girls as well as boys--and other colors were common as well, such as grey, red, earthy greens, yellows, and browns.  

About the age of seven to nine, boys began to wear clothing similar to their fathers, and girls began to wear dresses cut more like those of their mothers.

SOURCES:

The Thanksgiving Primer, by the Plimoth Plantation Museum, 1991.

A Little Commonwealth, by John Demos, 1970. (Available in the Mayflower Web Page bookstore).

Estate Inventories of the Pilgrims, reprinted in various issues of the Mayflower Descendant as well as in Charles Simmons, Plymouth Colony Records: Wills and Inventories, 1633-1669, Picton Press, 1996.

SOURCES FOR SEWING PATTERNS FOR AUTHENTIC PILGRIM CLOTHING:

Patterns of Fashion: the Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women, c1560-1620, by Janet Arnold, 1985.  (Available in the Mayflower Web Page bookstore).

Handbook of English Costume in the Seventeenth Century, by C. Willet and Phillis Cunnington, 1955.

Two Centuries of Costume in America, 1620-1820, by Alice Morse Earle, repr. 1903.

Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for Women, 1500-1900, by Jean Hunnisett, 1983.