IS IT REAL OR IS IT REPLICA-FLEX?
New and improved directions for creating a Replica Graflex are on the way.
They will include some patterns that can be downloaded and printed out for aiding construction.
Look for them soon!
This project will require virtually all the same parts as the original plans, but the emitter and the emitter fins will be a little different although much more accurate. The most noticable addition to the parts is a small piece of metal ductwork that is available in most large stores such as Home Depot and Lowes. I think it is used as a cover to vent openings in H.V.A.C. units. (Heating Ventilating Air Conditioning) Just look in the ductwork section and you should find some. This will be used for the emitter fins and a new more accurate activation box.
 
STEP 1
Take the 12"x 1.5" flanged tailpiece sink tubing. Take the below pattern & after cutting out tape together to form a loop. Then slide the loop up the length of the tube. The approxiamate length of the saber is about 10-5/8" to 10 3/4" (or closer to 10.70"). Tape pattern in place. Cut along the s-shape pattern. Mark where the recharging holes are and drill with 1/4" bit. (I used a smaller bit and Dremeled the holes bigger.) Also mark and cut out the fin square (NOTE: Only cut an "H" shape out of this area b/c you will bend the flaps upward later on. See further in the instructions.) and the tip hole as well as the venting slits on the bottom. Use a small file to square these off.

S-Shape Emitter Pattern
The photo depicts the cut tube and some misc. parts including the emitter and fin patterns.

STEP 2
Next, take the square of metal duct work and trace the below pattern onto it twice. Cut the pieces out. These fin pieces are approximately 1.5" high.

Emitter Fin Pattern
The photo shows the two cut fins after the edges have been bent appropriately and the connectors have been drilled.

STEP 3
Next take the cut tube and isolate the "H" shape cut you made in the top for the emitter fins. From below, carefully push these tabs up and outward. You can round off the sharp edges if you wish at this point. Then carefully drill corresponding holes for the emitter fins. this is where you will insert the small screws to secure the fins.
 

This is the "H" shaped pattern as referred to at left and in Step 1.

STEP 4
Next, slide the two emitter fins into their respective positions in the top "H" hole. Insert small machine screw to secure them fimsly in place. i would also suggest using a little epoxy just to be sure.
 

The photos shows the two cut fins inserted through the tube. Notice on the reverse phot the bent tabs off to the side of the top. Place gle behind these for extra support.

STEP 5
Next, take the 1.25" solder type 6" tube and cut one inch off of the larger flanged end. Repeat (2x). Thake these (2) metal rings you cut and slide them up the shaft about 5.75"-6" up the shaft. Also take the outer sleeve of the "solderless plug" as illustrated in the "red button" tutorial (don't cut it down though) and glue it in the appripriate spot on the top of the tube behind the emitter fins.
(See Version 1.0 and "red button how-to"for more details.)
This is a close up of the red button assembly glued in place.
I then took some small pieces of left over duct work metal and glued them in place for accent pieces. I also placed ground down rivet heads in the appropriate locations onto of these metal pieces.
STEP 6
Activation Box.
Take the 84" long piece of aluminum door weatherstrip edging (Macklanburg-Duncan "Universal Door Jamb Weatherstrip" -UPC 4337401040) and cut two (2) 2" inch sections. Take the bubble strip or connector card edge from the Yoda's House kit and glue it as illustrated on the left. Then fill the bottom with "Model Metal" or other similiar type of two-part plumber's epoxy.

Drill a 6/32 hole in one piece for the lever. Take a toggle bolt (as detailed in Ver. 1.0) this is then threaded into the hole an your clamp is complete.

STEP 7

Then glue this clamp onto the main shaft in the apropriate area depending on your preference as to which side the activation lever faces.

I like the activation lever facing down. therefore I glue the activation box on the right-hand side of the main shaft.

Once the clamp is gled in place you can paint the exposed ends with some chrome paint to cover any mold.
Another option woulde be to use some small pieces of metal foil tape used for duct work. I did exactly that on the topside of the clamp.
STEP 8
Emitter / Emitter Shaft (Paint all parts black)
Take a PVC plumbing adapter (part number forthcoming) that converts about 1" to 1/2" pipe. Cut according to the diagram on the right.

Take a toilet tank water shaft (Part number forthcoming) cut it down to about 9-1/4" inches. Slide the cut down adapter onto the top of the shaft and glue it in place. Mark slightly below the glued on adapter and drill two holes on each side and glue rivet heads in them. (Paint them gold.) Then take the entire assembly and glue it inside the chromed plumbing tube (main shaft).
 
MORE TO COME SOON, STAY TUNED...

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