THE
RODBUILDING
PROCESS
.....101
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If you
would like to learn how to make your own
split bamboo flyrod, you have come
to the right place. . . . . . .
To some , this is a
hobby. To others, it is a
profession. To all that make them, it
is a passion.
Enter
if you dare, into the realm of the
mystical split bamboo
rodmaker. . . . . . . . .
.>>>
COME ON PEOPLE
!!!
GET A GRIP! !
!
They is just
fishin' poles !
And
now. . . . .
DOWN TO
BUSINESS.....
Making a bamboo flyrod
is in some ways easy, and in other ways difficult (but not too difficult).
The bottom line is that it is time consuming. It takes a combination of patience,
precision and artistry. If you possess these qualities , then you have what
it takes to create your own flyrods.
I believe the key word
here is patience. Getting "tooled
up" to make your own rods is part of the challenge, but a big part of the
fun as well. It is possible to purchase all of the tools that you will need,
but instructions to build many of your own tools are readily available. If
you are like me, budget constraints don't allow too many "extra"
purchases, therefore you not only are forced to make your own equipment
but also invent gadgets along the way. For me, this "tooling up" process
was where I learned the most about the process of bamboo rod construction.
It was fun, but the whole time that you are "tooling up", you are still anxious
to get started "working the bamboo". This is where patience prevails.
|
Getting
to this point takes some work !
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HERE'S HOW TO GET
STARTED
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| Once you have
all of the necessary tools and hardware, it's time to start
"Working
the
Bamboo"
|
To check out the
special tools that I talk about in the following procedures, please check
out my
"TOOLS"
page.
Step 1)
| Select a nice culm
of bamboo. You want a culm that is free of any blemishes that might show
up in the finished rod. These blemishes might include, water marks, insect
holes, farming marks, nicks and dings. |
 |
Step 2)
| Next determine if the bamboo
has enough power fibers to support the rod that you will be making. These
are the fibers that run the length of the bamboo. Power
fibers are what gives bamboo it's strength. They are more concentrated
near the outside of the culm. The thickness of these fibers can be viewed
by looking at the end of a finely sanded culm. (See Photo ) Thicker
concentrations of power fibers can support larger rods. |
 |
Step 3)
| The next step
is to file each node section flat. Using a good size flat mill file,
lay it level on the node section and work the file around
the bamboo culm until the raised part of the node is level with the rest
of the culm. When doing this, you must be careful not to file too deep
into the culm so as to not cut into the outer power fibers. This would
tend to weaken the rod section. |
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Step 4)
| Now we must decide
if we want to build a darkly flamed rod , or a blond natural bamboo colored
rod. If we want a dark rod, we must next flame the bamboo. To accomplish
this, we will use a propane torch and "sweep" the flame across the entire
surface of the culm of bamboo. (See Photo) This process will actually burn
the outside enamel of the bamboo culm. This process seems to serve two purposes.
The first is to provide the dark, rich color, that many people prefer.
The second purpose has the effect of drying and slightly tempering the bamboo.
This second process actually seems to aid in the next step....splitting the
bamboo. |
 |
Step 5)
| The bamboo culm will
be split lengthwise into approximately 24 individual strips, which will be
used to make the rods. The splitting will be accomplished with a mallet
and a bamboo splitting tool known as a "fro".
The Culm should be split as follows:
-
First split the culm in half.
-
Then split the halves into thirds.
-
Then split the thirds into halves again.
-
Split these halves into half again.
-
This should give you 24 individual strips that are approximately 1/4" wide
each.
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Split Strips |
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Step 6)
The next step involves
preparing the strips for preliminary planing. This step would include straitening
the strips and flattening the nodes.
-
I start this procedure by laying a strip upside down, and using my roughing
planes, I will plane off half of the node bumps on the pith side of the strip.
-
I will then lay the strips on their sides and "square up" the sides of the
strips.This is necessary since the splitting procedure does not always produce
nice square strips.
-
After I have square strips, I will use my heat gun to heat a node section
just enough to make it soft. I will place the heated node section in my small
vice and flatten the top and bottom of the node. I will then reheat the node
and place the node back into the vice to squeeze the sides of the strip.
This helps to straiten the strip. I will repeat this procedure with all the
nodes on all of the strips.
-
Next, I will go back to each strip and hand straiten each one using
the heat gun. This whole process is time consuming, but when you
move a strip to the planing forms, a strait strip will cooperate that
much better while planing.
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Still under construction...Please stay tuned!
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