by Beth-katherine Kaiman
e-mail: GarFairies@aol.com
One question that I am always asked is how to start smocking so I thought I would take a few paragraphs explaining (as if I could begin to explain the addiction . . .) how to go about getting started. To begin with smocking is basically embroidery on pleats, or rather an embroidered method of holding tiny pleats in material in place in a decorative manner.
In the various issues of this newsletter I have begun to explore the origins of smocking (if you are missing any please let me know and I'll get them off to you ASAP). I have discussed the evolution of smocking from a way to hold pleats in place decoratively to the functional way of adding material to the basic shaped rectangular garments that most people wore (we are referring to the historical time periods from the 16th to mid 19th centuries). How smocking evolved is an intriguing journey thru mostly undocumented history (except through paintings and thoughtful, logical thinking) but not really essential to understand if you want to smock.
Smocking can be done in two different ways. 1) Embroidering on existing pleats; 2) creating pleats while embroidering. The first way is called English Smocking and is the style that most of us do, in fact 95% of the patterns and books and plates are designed for this technique. The second way evolved from the first, primarily by Butterick & Co. in the later part of the 19th century and early 20th century through his pattern company. Mr. Butterick was looking for a way to make smocking more appealing to the common American woman so he invented smocking transfer dots and translated the technique of the different stitches on top of pleats into a way of creating the pleats while embroidering. Most commonly this technique has been done on gingham or on striped material known as counterchange smocking.
We are going to focus on English Smocking right now. The standard ratio of how many pleats per inch is 3:1, or 3" of material = 1" of pleated material. This ratio of course changes much like knitting gauge depending on the fabrics you use, thinner fabric means more pleats to the inch and thicker fabrics less pleats per inch.
There are two ways to create the pleats IRON ON SMOCKING DOTS or having the fabric pleated by a nifty little invention called a SMOCKING PLEATER. The first was is to get a hold of smocking transfer dots (Knott's dots two styles available regular spacing or pleater compatible [designed for all of the patterns available]), do a test sample on your fabric of about 3" and pick up the dots to make the pleats to find your gauge. Once you have established your gauge (this is also true for having your fabric pleated by a pleater though mostly the pattern designers have thought this step out for you), then you can go ahead and prepare your fabric for smocking but ironing on the dots and picking them up and making the pleats. (Phew!!!! Makes me tired just thinking about it.)
The alternative is to have your fabric pleated by your local smocking shop (usually the charge is anywhere from $3.50 to $5.00), a friend who owns a pleater, or purchasing a pleater of your own.
The next step is to find a project. If you have a little girl or doll to smock for I would recommend a yoke dress as your first project. If you have no child to smock for and just want to learn then a sampler pillow or a baby bonnet is a good choice. Basically your first project should be what we refer a flat piece, as opposed to a bishop style which is smocked in the round. The difference between the two is that with a bishop you have to worry about your tension as well as placement of your stitches. (A bishop dress evolved from the basic chemise or peasant blouse of times gone past.) There are plenty of patterns designed specifically for these, I have chosen a few below to help but give me a call if you like and I will work with you individually.
The next question I have heard often is "Can I adapt a commercial pattern that I already have for smocking?" The answer is yes, hesitantly as it is tricky at first (see section of smocking gauge) and I wouldn't recommend it for your beginning project. Later on after you've become adapt at smocking then it's not hard at all to figure out. I have great confidence in the feminine brain in understanding and working through a problem and coming up with a solution. After all we invented smocking!
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