Cho Oyu Adventure 1997

 

This is a narrative taken from the journal I kept during my expedition to Cho Oyu in April and May 1997. Although it’s no great work of art, it recalls my impressions as to what it’s like to be involved in a Himalayan expedition. Much of this narrative is presented in chronological order, and follows pretty closely with events as written in my daily journal, although I’ve taken the literary license to add some more explanatory sections where appropriate.

 

3/30 -4/2 Colorado Springs to Kathmandu

The adventure begins…

            I flew from Colorado Springs to Los Angeles late on Easter Sunday and spent the night at the Marriott in L.A. so that I could catch the morning flight to Bangkok. In the morning, I met Terry LaFrance, another of the expedition members, at the airport. Eric Simonson, the organizer of the expedition, had dropped off food bags at his hotel in L.A. for us to bring, and Terry was kind enough to bring them to LAX. At the airport we managed to hook up with Kei, one of the guides. A former Marine, he was working on the Ski patrol at Taos New Mexico.

            The first leg of the flight took us to Seoul, Korea, a 13+ hour flight. Fortunately, I managed to get a first class seat on Thai Airways. It was amazingly comfortable, with a seat that reclines into a bed. It really made the flight easy. After a short layover in Seoul where we got a chance to wander the airport and stretch our legs, we were back on the plane to Bangkok, Thailand. While wandering in the Seoul airport, the number of Ginseng products for sale surprised me; they had a big counter filled with a myriad of products. After a 5+ hour flight, we were finally in Bangkok. Since it was now night in Thailand, Terry and I elected to stay in the Louis Tavern dayrooms in the airport. Kei mistakenly checked his baggage to Bangkok so he was forced to go out through customs and retrieve it for the next flight. The Louis Tavern dayrooms are simple rooms in the airport where we could take a welcome break. It was a great chance to get a shower and relax. Since I didn’t get much sleep on the flight over, except between Seoul and Bangkok, I’m still trying to figure out what time it is. I’m anxious to get on to Kathmandu and see what it is like.

 

4/2 Kathmandu

            Arrived in Kathmandu, after a relatively short 4-hour flight from Bangkok. Staying at the Louis Tavern helped me to catch up on my sleep and is really helping to get over any jet lag effects. Kei ended up sleeping in the terminal after having to go outside the airport to retrieve his luggage, since they didn’t check it all the way through to Kathmandu.

            When we arrive at the airport in Kathmandu, we unexpectedly ran into Shaun Norman, one of the guides, and Laughlin, another of the clients. Both of them are from New Zealand, so the expedition is taking on an international flavor. We were met at the airport by Dave Hahn, the leader of the expedition and Ang Rita Sherpa, one of the Sherpas who runs the trekking company, Great Escapes that helps organize expeditions. Shaun and Laughlin’s gear didn’t make it so they are anxious about their stuff coming in time. Later, we met Fred and Richard Alpert, two more of the guides, at the Hotel Manaslu in the Lazimpath area of Kathmandu, where we are staying. We sat around eating in the hotel garden getting to know each other. Richard went to Colorado College and seems to be quite a vagabond, traveling all the time and not really having a home - that would be hard for me, I’m getting used to finally having somewhere I feel at home and settled (and I can unpack my stuff). Fred and Richard both work as mountain guides on Rainier during the summer. Their agreement with Eric is that they will work as guides and pay their own way in order to gain mountain experience. Later that afternoon Kei, Laughlin, and I wandered up the road to look around and stopped I a restaurant for a beer.  It was a good chance to talk. Laughlin is remarkably right wing in his ideas and well informed about American politics. We all seem to be getting along quite well.

            We had a group dinner at Alice’s restaurant in Thamel, a section of Kathmandu that is where the tourists hang out and which has the most restaurants and shops. The food’s not spectacular, but no one cared with all the beer. This is quite a partying group, but very serious when necessary. Dave Hahn, who Kei calls “Super Dave”, appears to be learning the ropes from Eric Simonson, who I finally got to meet. He’s really tall (of course, compared to me, who isn’t?). He is heading off to the South Col of Everest tomorrow with a client, so we all wished him well. Shaun, Dave, and Eric toasted one of their friends, Reinhart (?) who died on Everest. He was an older person (55) who just kept trying, 5 times, and finally is enjoying the view from the North Face of Everest. Eric suggested that I be involved with the SatCom unit since I’m the most computer literate and “the weather-man”. It’s really hard to explain what I do when asked, because it is so nebulous. I try not to be too evasive, but I do so many different things, it’s hard to pin it down. When asked what I do, Kei piped up and used the “I can tell you, but then I’d have to kill you” line. They got a kick out of that, and it seems to be sticking. But it can be trying. Eric was wondering what it would take to get weather maps via the SatCom. It may be possible, but prohibitively expensive - I think Dave said it costs about 2 cents per character via FAX. I’ll have to look into it. Kei and Laughlin were racing in the peddled rickshaws from the restaurant back to the hotel after dinner. Kei seems to be quite a fun-loving person. The rest of us went via taxi, in which you bargain the rates and fit as many people in a possible.

            Terry, Kei and I are sharing a room in the hotel. Kei is quite content to sleep on the floor and could easily have his own bed if he wants. It must be the Marine in him.

 

4/3 Kathmandu

            Terry, Kei, and I went into Thamel this morning. I was looking for gifts and souvenirs. Along the way, we got an education about Thankas, which are ornately drawn religious pictures. The proprietor of the “Thanka Shop” took great pride in explaining the different levels of detail (and the resulting difference in price). He was really informative and I will probably buy one (as will Kei) on the way home. [I never did, mostly because I ran out of time on the way home]. I was looking for prayer wheel earrings or a necklace, but tried to bargain for them and ended up not getting them. I found some postcards of Cho Oyu and sent them out. It’s funny because they are labeled “Everest North Face” instead of Cho Oyu. We went out for dinner at the Rum Doodle, a climber’s bar, which has yeti feet with the names of expedition members on them. We will probably fill out ours on the return. Dave Hahn was glad to find his name still on the Everest “Hall of Fame” upstairs which has the names of Everest summiters. Dave climbed the North Face of Everest in what became an epic after he stayed out all night. Dave was talking with Naomi, a lady who we met in L.A. who comes to Kathmandu for business, about the deaths on Everest and his impression that all who died were worthy of trying to climb the mountain, which Naomi disagreed with. Charlotte Fox, one of the people on Everest, summited Cho Oyu the year before. Dave went on to talk about a recent client on Mt. Vinson in Antarctica who came out of shape and had to be sent down. It is inconceivable to me that someone would spend $25K+ and not be prepared. I can only hope that my training is sufficient. It rained most of the afternoon so we ended up sleeping most of the time.

            I’m definitely getting into vacation mode; it is remarkably easy to forget about the rest of the world.

            We met Ruth Ann and Elizabeth, so finally the team is complete. Elizabeth is here as a trekker and won’t try to make it any higher than camp 1. They are both real estate agents from Reno, Nevada, out for adventure.

 

4/4 Kathmandu

 

            It was a busy day. Terry and I met Naomi and her business colleague, Barbara, at their hotel in Thamel at 6:30AM for a brisk tour of Kathmandu. We walked to Durbar Square, the old part of town, and then back to Swayambhunath, more commonly called the monkey temple due to the monkeys that run free around the temple. Everywhere was misty, which gave the area an eerie feeling. It won’t be very good for pictures, but it gave the place a lot of atmosphere. Although it would have been nice to see the sites better, especially Swayambhunath. The streets were mostly deserted, which made for a great walk. Barbara spoke some Nepalese so she would say hello to a number of the people we met. We got back to Thamel by 8:30 where we met Kei and Richard who were hunting for the place that is making an expedition patch. There are quite a few tailors in Thamel who sell embroidered goods, such a T-shirts and patches, so we decided to have a patch made commemorating our expedition. The design they came up with is nothing special, so I may try to make up something when I return to Kathmandu. After Thamel, we went to a Buddhist temple at Bodnath with Dawa (Denuru) our main climbing Sherpa for the ritual blessing. Bodnath is famous for its large Hindu temple. The Buddhist temple is nearby. The local Lama, who also blessed some prayer flags we bought at a store around the Hindu temple, blessed us. As part of the ceremony, the Lama places a silk prayer scarf around your neck as a blessing. I put the prayer scarf in my black jacket pocket for luck on the mountain. I honestly felt much better after the blessing. It feels like we’re coming together as a team as well.

            Tomorrow we are scheduled to fly to Tibet, so after going to Bodnath, we returned to the hotel to sort out our gear. Shaun and Laughlin finally got their gear, so they’re happy. They were looking at trying to buy enough for the expedition at the shops around Thamel if necessary. Thamel has a lot of shops with used expedition gear that you can buy.

            After sorting through our stuff, Kei and I went on a tour of Kathmandu. We started in Thamel and walked down to Durbar Square. We were given a tour of the temples by a local student who wanted to practice his English (and earn some money in the process). It was quite informative, and he ended up being a great tour guide. One of the highlights was the “erotic temple”, a temple whose columns have figures in various erotic poses. Apparently this is to keep evil spirits at bay and is actually quite common, although this temple is the most famous example.

            The drivers are quite incredible; there are a lot of the three-wheeled vehicles, or tuk-tuks (named after the noise they make), zipping around. The air pollution gets pretty bad since the vehicles don’t have much in the way of emission controls. I can really feel the pollution and dust. A number of people go around town wearing masks for protection. Mark Dixon and Sue Smith, our two doctors on the climb, routinely wear masks. This is probably not a bad idea, as it is important to protect your lungs so you don’t get any of the various infections prior to the climb.

            Elizabeth and Ruth Ann are quite the shoppers, when we went around the Bodnath, they were checking out all the shops. They had some interesting thoughts on what to look for, especially for gifts.

            I called home from the hotel around 12pm Colorado time, probably the last time I’ll get to call since we’ll be in Tibet tomorrow. I could hear Melva fine, but the conversation was broken up. It may have been the lateness of the hour, but Melva did not sound happy. [I later learned that because of the time delays induced by going over the satellite link it makes conversations difficult to follow at times and can be quite frustrating]

 

4/5 Kathmandu to Lhasa

 

            Wow, I really like Tibet. It is worlds different than Kathmandu. The people seem much friendlier. There is always a ready smile. I find it very uplifting after the hustle of Kathmandu.

            We flew on a China Southwest Airlines 757 from Kathmandu to Lhasa. We originally expected some puddle jumper airplane and we were surprised to find something so modern. Unfortunately we couldn’t see the high mountains on the flight due to the clouds. Apparently on a good day you get great views of Everest. On our way off the plane we all grabbed one of the “complimentary” pillows. Shaun said they would come in handy later (and they did).

The team has now divided up into the “guide group”, consisting of Dave, Kei, Fred, and Richard as well as our three Sherpas, who are traveling overland with the gear and the “guided” group who are going to Cho Oyu via Lhasa. For us it’s quite a novel experience and a great chance to see some unique sights. Only Ruth Anne has been here before, when she traveled with a National Geographic photographer.

It’s about a two-hour drive from the Lhasa airport to the city. The road goes through a desert area that looks a lot like the Nevada/California desert. There are a number of small villages along the route, and on many of the few bushes and trees there are prayer flags. They add some color to an otherwise drab landscape. On the way we passed a large rock carved rock relief of Buddha. This is supposed to be a “natural Buddha” and not man-made. The area was littered with prayer flags and small pieces of white paper that contain prayers.

After a meal of Chinese food at the “Climbers Bar”, which looked curiously like a converted disco, we walked to the Jokhang temple in the center of Lhasa. People, some who were just curious, some trying to sell things, constantly mobbed us. Ruth Anne and Elizabeth were frustrated when no one would take Nepalese money or dollars. The local currency is the Yuan, which we’ll have to get in the morning when the hotel cashier opens. The kids are really cute and all say “hello” and smile. Hopefully got some good pictures of the Jokhang temple - the light was great for seeing into the western prayer area. There is a huge circular prayer wheel that people walk beside and turn. The people who are praying go through a ritual of standing, kneeling, and then laying flat, which is repeated over and over while chanting.

Terry LaFrance had a small kid hanging onto him, wrapped around his leg, as he walked around the Barkor, the area around the Jokhang temple. He only let go when Terry gave him some money.

I can feel the altitude (11,000+) and have a slight headache, but nothing serious. Our hotel room in the “Himalaya Hotel” has no heat and a sign at the front desk of when they have hot water. It’s actually a fairly nice hotel, a bit run down, and there are very few people staying here. Terry and I are sharing a room.

 

4/6 Lhasa

 

            We went to the Drepung Monastery today. It is located on a hill overlooking the western part of Lhasa. At one point in its history, it housed over 7700 monks, today, only a couple hundred live here. It’s a spectacular location with tremendous artwork. Unfortunately you can’t take pictures, and in many cases it is too dark. It seems they are worried about electrical shortages causing fires, so they don’t use electric lights.

            In the afternoon we went to the Barkor bazaar, the area surrounding the Jokhang temple to buy gifts. Some of the group went through the Jokhang temple. Unfortunately I missed the opportunity. Ruth Anne, Elizabeth, Laughlin, and I were trying to find gifts. I managed to find a wood block used to make prayer flags, a prayer wheel, and some Xi stones, which I plan to give to friends as gifts. For everything you are expected to barter, and it gets fun some times. While I was looking for a prayer wheel, I asked one lady how much she wanted. I wasn’t too impressed with her initial offer so I moved on. She came following after me, showing the prayer wheel and trying to get me to buy it by repeating the mantra of the merchants “cheapy, cheapy”. Unfortunately one of the stones on the prayer wheel fell off and I looked at her, smiled, and said “cheapy, cheapy”. The crowd loved it! Everywhere we went we would draw a crowd of curious people, and when we stopped to bargain, the crowd would stop and watch. It’s unusual being the center of attention, but the people are really friendly, with a lot of smiles. One old lady was jabbering away at me, she seemed really curious. I just smiled. The Tibetan people really make you feel welcome.

            We decided to spend an extra night in Lhasa so that we could see the Potala palace, which was closed today. I think it’s a great idea, we’ve come this far and it would be a shame to miss one of the major attractions. It will also give us an extra day to acclimatize. I won’t object. I (and everyone else) get winded going up the hotel stairs!

            We’ve been remarkably well fed. The meals are outstanding and beer is plentiful. And they keep bringing us food. Too much in fact. Lunch and dinner are at the “mountain bar” (Chinese food) and breakfast has been in the Tibetan restaurant in the hotel.

 

4/7 Lhasa

 

            Today we visited the Potala palace. It’s hard to describe the immensity of it. It’s really huge. I bought a book on it from a little store inside the Potala, which shows the interior, which is typically too dark (and forbidden) to photograph. Atop the Potala there were a number of people repairing the roof. They all carry a rock attached to a stick and in unison pound the stones into the roof, while singing. It seems that there is a song for roof repair, farming, and other occupations. We initially thought they were monks chanting, they were so rhythmic. The lady merchants outside the Potala are very aggressive and we had to escape to the car to get away. With the help of the truck driver, I bought a turquoise necklace at a low price.

            After visiting the Potala, we walked to the Blue Buddha, a large rock relief with thousands of Buddhas carved on it. Nearby, some workers were carving prayers into slate slabs. On a hillside nearby there were large mounds of these prayer slabs. The blue Buddha is located near the Western Gate of the old city of Lhasa. After visiting the Blue Buddha area, we wandered back over to the Potala and when around the backside. Near the western gate bought two mani stones - slate stones with “Om Mani Padme Hum” carved on them.

            We also went to the Post office to buy stamps. I sent out some more postcards and a letter to Melva. We’ll see what arrives.

            Driving around Lhasa is quite educational. Unlike Nepal, everything here is written only in Tibetan and Chinese. I can now understand what it means to be functionally illiterate.

            The Chinese Liaison officer, Mr. Liu, managed to shake us down for an additional $80 each to stay the extra day. Apparently, this is common practice. The Chinese interpreter, “Hank”, has a conniption fit if things don’t go according to “PLAN”. Apparently, everything in China must be by the “PLAN”. There is a big difference between the Chinese and the Tibetans we’ve met. I much prefer the Tibetans.

            We had a good dinner at the Tibetan restaurant in the hotel. We had butter tea, yak stew, mumus (potatoes dumplings around meat), sheep, and numerous veggies. It’s one of the better meals we’ve had. I definitely ate too much too late and I woke up at ~ 1:30, but eventually I fell asleep again. I’ll have to watch my eating.

            I’m feeling good so far. Still apprehensive about what is to come. It’s been quite an adventure so far.

 

4/8 Lhasa to Shigatze

 

            Not the best of days. The overabundance of Chinese food finally got to me, and cleaned out my system. I began taking Imodium and hope it will cure it.

            We drove to Shigatze, about a 5-hour drive. The scenery is quite spectacular. It reminds me a lot of the desert Southwest, only drier and more rugged. And the elevation of the valleys starts at > 11,000 feet and goes up from there. Shigatze is at about 12,500 ft. The drivers of the two Toyota Landcruisers have been nicknamed “Mr. Blue” and “Mr. White”. Mr. Blue is the worse of the two drivers and we all try and avoid him. The drivers are quite crazy. They just honk to clear the road, with no idea of which is the right or left side of the road. We were told that all the Toyota Landcruisers we see were donated by Japan as part of their contribution to the Gulf War and were driven to Tibet by some entrepreneurs.

            The hotel in Shigatze is really quite nice. It’s the best hotel so far. It actually has a heater!

            We arrived late and walked around Tashilhunpo monastery because it was closed. Hundreds of dogs surround the monastery. The Tibetans believe that the dogs are reincarnated monks who didn’t do too well in the previous life so the monks feed them. There are consequently a lot of dogs, in all states of health. We nicknamed this the “dog monastery”. Tashilhunpo was the home of the Panchen Lama, who was the administrator, while the Dalai Lama was the spiritual head. The Chinese are trying to promote the Panchen Lama as the Dalai Lama, in part because he has been selected by the Chinese and is viewed as a puppet. The Tibetans aren’t buying into the Chinese ploy.

            We walked back to the hotel through the standard town - basically an open sewer - dead dog and trash all around. Very primitive, it was like stepping back in time.

            I decided to forgo dinner and instead just ate some crackers. Trying to keep a bland diet.

            I bought a Tibetan prayer book and a yak bone carving at the hotel shop. The book is quite unique, with the cover being made out of wood and the pages being ornately painted.

           

4/9 Shigatze to Tingri

 

            Drove from Shigatze to Tingri. The road was mostly a dirt road and pretty rough. It reminds me of a jeep trail. The blue jeep had a gas leak and the driver ingeniously repaired it with tsampa (barley) and an old cut up shoe. Breakdowns are a way of life here. There is no such thing as preventive maintenance - everything just runs till it breaks and then its gum and bailing wire to fix it. We stopped in a town to fix it and immediately drew a crowd. I’m sure we were their excitement for the day. When we stopped all the kids in town were crowding around us and they all wanted to look through my camera. It seems to be a universal fascination. It was fine and I was quite accommodating until one of them decided to try and open the back of the camera. I wasn’t too happy and hope the film wasn’t ruined. I’ll have to be more careful. There was a nomad camp in an enclosure in the center of town with a yak-skin tent. And overlooking the town were the remains of something that looked like a fortress. It’s impossible to know how old it was. It may have been a monastery destroyed by the Chinese when they took over Tibet or it could be a relic of the Mongol era. There are a number of similar structures dotting the landscape along the road. It would be fascinating to know more about the history of this place, and what some of these buildings are (or were). Many of the villages we pass through remind me of Chaco Canyon or Mesa Verde - only these are living examples of that era!

            We stopped for lunch (if you can call it that) in the small town of Lhatze. It was probably the only restaurant between Shigatze and Tingri. The Chinese food they served consisted of assorted yak parts. Sue, our resident pathologist, was trying to figure out what part of the animal it was. Some dishes appeared to be either stomach or intestine, and weren’t very appealing. I ate some of the veggies and soup, but I’m still trying to take it easy and recover. I still don’t feel great, but feel okay eating. I’m certainly generating enough gas! Terry LaFrance, upon seeing the meal arrayed in all its glory, uttered the immortal phrase, “Aw shit, I’m going to go get a Snickers!”

            The road passes over the Lhakpa La pass at 17,200 feet, the highest point we’ve reached so far, on the way to Tingri at 14,500 ft. The top of the pass was covered with prayer flags and white prayer strips. If it didn’t have religious significance it would be considered a litter pile. So far, I haven’t had any adverse altitude effects, but I’m not exactly out there running marathons.

            Both Everest and Cho Oyu are visible from our hotel, the “Everest View”. The hotel is basically a dump. The beds are on a dirt floor and the dirt walls and ceiling are covered with cheap, gaudy wallpaper. The toilet consists of an elevated platform with two holes. But the view of Everest from there is spectacular! The gathering spot for the hotel is a nice Tibetan/Nepalese style teahouse. It’s a bit smoky inside, but it’s comfortable and the food is pretty good - mostly daal baaht (spiced lentils) with lots of Sherpa tea (tea with lots of milk and sugar). A little Nepalese lady with a hacking cough tends the kitchen. The doctors in the group are worried about her transmitting diseases. I later found out her husband died of tuberculosis.

 

4/10 (Tingri)

 

            Another day in Tingri. Terry and Laughlin went on to base camp with the first part of the group. The rest of us will follow tomorrow. They only have so much room to ferry people up the mountain. Besides, it will give the rest of us more time to acclimatize. Shaun, Mark, Sue, and I went for a substantial hike around Tingri. Climbing part way up a nearby hill up to around 15,000 ft. We get occasional glimpses of Everest and Cho Oyu. It’s enough to be tantalizing. We walked through the town of Tingri, which was a fascinating and up-close look at a typical Tibetan village. I’ve taken a lot of pictures. There is quite a bit unique. I’m trying to be sensitive to the people and not take pictures like they are animals in a zoo, but in many ways this is a living museum.

            The little urchins can be quite annoying and will grab for things if they get the chance. Have taken the tact of raising my voice, which discourages them quite effectively. They come up and rub their palm to ask for money. They are pretty dirty with runny noses; they look like they have perpetual colds.

            Shaun’s bird book was the hit of the teahouse. It seems a good way to break the ice and the Tibetans are naturally curious and friendly.

            The Chinese translator, Yung Kai She (little lamb), is a likable sort. He accompanied us part way on the hike. He is a student in Beijing taking time off to practice English and see part of the country. He has delusions of returning to Tingri and bringing civilization to the Tibetan savages. I don’t share his ideals and am disturbed by the treatment of the Tibetans by the Chinese. Their superior attitude and destruction of the culture is quite appalling. Of course, we don’t dare mention this to the Chinese - they don’t abide with any discussion on their culture.

            Finally talked with Mark and the others regarding their “Joe’s probably a spy” comments. It’s amusing to a point, but I don’t think the Chinese would find it funny. I don’t think they fully appreciated the fact that we are in a hostile country and off-hand comments could be taken quite seriously. Fortunately, they were very understanding of my position, so it shouldn’t be a problem anymore.

I’m sitting in the hotel doorway writing this and enjoying the sun. The “plaza” of the hotel has a cow running around as well as a number of dogs, some in pretty bad shape. (I guess you could say that of some of the Tibetans as well.) I’m starting to feel quite a bit better now. My beard is coming in quite white - I’m probably going to look old.

The evening in the teahouse was spent watching Hong Kong Kung Fu movies on a VCR. This seemed to be quite an event for the locals. Shaun was the hit of the party with his comments. The Tibetans were half watching him and half watching the movie. You have to wonder how strange it must seem to them to see freeways, luxury cars, and water slides. They must seem truly foreign in this arid land where yaks do work and transportation is via horses!

 

4/11 (Tingri - Base Camp)

 

We finally arrived at base camp (16,000 ft). It was about a two-hour drive via jeep from Tingri to Base Camp. It’s nice that you can drive all the way here. The road is basically a jeep trail, with a number of spots where the drivers have made their own road. Having a jeep available at Base Camp is a luxury that many of the other expeditions don’t have. It adds a level of security to know that if something were to happen we could be evacuated quickly. The Chinese liaison officers and interpreter have set up their own tent and cook their own meals. Except for when Yung Kai She comes over to visit, there is very little interaction.

 From Base Camp it is still two days of hiking to Advanced Base Camp (ABC). Still no sign of Cho Oyu as it was cloudy all day. The advanced team did a great job setting up camp. My kudos to them. Finally had some real food; it tasted great; ate more than I should, but that’s okay, I need the food for strength.

            I have a slight headache due to the altitude, but it disappears with aspirin.

 

4/12 (Base Camp)

 

            A rough night. I woke up at 10:30 and had to go to the latrine up the hill - in the snow. My stomach is still not quite right. I still have lots of gas. I’m probably readjusting to a different type of food now. Had a hard time getting back to sleep. I notice that I’m doing Cheyne-Stokes breathing so I tend to wake myself up when I’m about to doze off. Finally in desperation I took ½ of a Diamox, which is supposed to help with acclimatization, and that certainly helped make it so that I could sleep. I’m still very tired and run down. I haven’t had good nights sleep in a long time. Even think about quitting and going home. Sometimes that sounds good. Except…

            Today the mountain was out and was beautiful. It was very clear this morning at dawn and we have a great view from base camp. It’s quite an intimidating sight. It’s really huge!

            Sorted the gear for tomorrow’s yak loads. Found the family picture that Melva put in my going-away card and put it in my jacket pocket next to the kata (scarf) we received from the Lama in Kathmandu. Seeing the picture makes me feel homesick, and I’ve only been gone two weeks. I have a long way to go.

            I talked with Mark about the altitude and my lack of sleep. He suggested that I begin taking Diamox and see what helps. Diamox has been proven useful to help in acclimatization by making it easier to take in oxygen at altitude. He also encouraged me to stay, which also helps a lot.

 

4/13 (Sunday)

 

            Finally, a decent nights sleep. Except for a 12:30 AM bathroom break (the sky was beautifully clear though) I slept pretty well despite weird dreams. It was difficult to get up for breakfast. Went for a short walk and got a fierce headache so when I returned I went and laid down and started to fall asleep. My body must be really tired - it was hard to get up for lunch. Sleeping and resting the afternoon away. Used the satellite comm system and sent a fax to Melva - we’ll see if she receives it. [She did, I found out later, although someone else at work picked it up before she did so even then it took her a while to actually get it!]

 

4/14  (Base Camp)

 

            The first yak trip headed for ABC. A little lady “yakker” was helping with the loading of the yaks. It was quite amazing what she could carry on her back. Denuru, Kei, Richard, Fred, Mark, and Sue went with the first group to begin setting up ABC. Since Mark and Sue aren’t on the “guided option” they have the freedom to move as they see fit.

            I still can’t figure out the satellite Comm system to verify that the email or fax capability actually works.

            I went on some short acclimatization hikes: one up the road and one to the ruins above base camp. The ruins seemed to be some Chinese fortification at one time, possibly covering the Nangpa La pass into Nepal. The ruins show signs of a slanted roof and trenches around the area. Kei, our military expert, was quite impressed by the complex and the surrounding strategically placed trenches. Directly above camp were the remains of a smaller building, perhaps a Tibetan lookout, also covering the pass.

            I’m getting the beginning of a cold. I took some Alka-Seltzer cold medicine. If it’s not one thing it’s another. I’ve probably felt bad more times this trip than I’ve felt good. Is it worth it? A pair of Russian climbers came through camp that had already called it quits; previously an American climber had passed through on the way out. This high altitude takes a toll.

            We held a puja ceremony this morning. This is the Sherpa ceremony to appease the mountain gods so that we can safely climb on the mountain. Our chief cook Pemba performed the ceremony. He built a small altar on which he burned spruce twigs and sprinkled rice around while singing/chanting the prayers. He left an offering of wine and food for the gods. At the end of the ceremony, Denuru hung prayer flags from the top of the cook tent to the nearby hill. I think we were all touched by the ceremony and were pleased to be involved in the traditions of the Sherpas. It seems to further bind us as a group and make us feel like a traditional Himalayan expedition.

 

4/15  (Base Camp)

 

            Another acclimatization hike this morning with Shaun and Laughlin; this one to over 17,200 feet. It’s amazing how high we are, and we’re only at base camp and climbing small hills nearby. It’s awesome to look up at Cho Oyu, which is towering over us by over 2 miles (~11,000 feet) - that’s more than the elevation gain from the base of Pikes Peak to the summit, which we see all the time, and was my “training hill”. Only this “hill” starts at 2000 feet above the summit of Pikes Peak!

            My cold is hitting me quite hard. It’s difficult to breathe and I’m going quite slowly, about one breath per step. I’m huffing right along. Decided to spend the afternoon in the tent resting. Unfortunately, Base Camp is probably not a very healthy place to be. There is a lot of blowing dust, it’s constantly windy, and the dusty soil is centuries of yak dung, all blowing into my lungs and sinuses.

 

4/16 (Base Camp)

 

            My sinuses are quite congested, so I decided to forgo the morning hike and spent the time in the tent sleeping and reading.  The additional rest was good for me. It helped improve my morale. I felt good enough to go for an afternoon hike with Shaun, until it started to snow. The yakkers who are going to carry the rest of our gear to ABC decided to move right into our camp. Right outside my tent is a yak. They have a strange concept of territoriality. Tomorrow, if the weather holds, we’ll be going half way to ABC.

 

4/17 (Middle camp, 17,500 feet)

 

            We loaded the yaks with the remaining gear and set out for a 4-½ hour slog up the glacial moraine to reach the middle camp. Much of the hike was in a snowstorm. I decided to try wearing one of my paper dust masks to help keep my lungs moist and hopefully ease my cold. With the wet and blowing snow it was soon wet and quite miserable. It was a hard hike with my cold. To compound matters, I didn’t get much sleep the night before due to the yak bell symphony right outside my tent all night. Thoughts of family and friends urging me on helps a lot. It’s no fun trying to do this stuff when you’re sick. Fortunately, Dave had us stop frequently to eat and drink. So, by the time we reached camp we had enough energy to erect the tents despite the storm. Pemba served us dinner in bed (in the tents), which was quite a luxury. On this leg of the journey to ABC we have Terry, Laughlin, Ruth Anne, Dave, and I. Shaun and Elizabeth stayed in base camp recovering from being sick. We still have a tent at Base Camp to hold some of our gear, such as travel clothes, and Pasang is staying there to take care of things. We’re camping with the yakkers, so get to see how they live up close.

 

4/18 (Advanced Base Camp)

 

            Almost didn’t make it here. After a sleepless night at intermediate camp, primarily because of my cold, I seriously considered returning to base camp and heading home. After talking with Dave Hahn, he convinced me that most of what I was feeling was normal and encouraged me to continue to ABC, have a few days rest, and decide from there. At this point, I’m glad I did. Dave set a reasonable pace, which I could keep up with.  In the final analysis, I did about as well as anyone else - so I guess I’m not doing too bad overall.

            The day started with Pemba serving us breakfast in our tents, which was a nice treat. He really goes out of his way to make us feel better. The yakkers even will pitch in to help set up and take down the tents when they can.

            The walk in was quite spectacular - and grueling. The track follows a glacial moraine for most of the route, until it branches off up to another glacier to reach ABC. This branch takes us to the foot of Cho Oyu. If we followed the original glacier it goes up to the Nangpa La, a glacial pass into Nepal. This pass is a regular trade route and is well traveled by yak teams to and from Tibet. This may explain why there were fortifications at Base Camp, perhaps they are there to defend or control the pass into Nepal. The hike in consists of a lot of up and down along the left side of the valley adjoining the main glacier. At one point another glacier coming down from a nearby mountain merges with the main glacier and makes a spectacular icefall, which we go along the base of it. The track is mostly gravel on top of ice (classical glacial moraine) and is pretty slow going, but what would you expect at 18,000 feet? Dave encourages us to pace ourselves by taking rest steps rather than scurrying up the path. Slow and rhythmic seems to be the way to go, which is sometimes easy to forget in our haste to reach ABC. [After the expedition I read a report from a Canadian team that described how our guides were teaching us to perform the rest step, and came to the conclusion that we were a bunch of guided amateurs who really didn’t belong on the mountain. Strange, in the final analysis, us “amateurs” did better on the mountain than the Canadians! It is a shame that such prejudices against guided expeditions run so deep in the mountaineering community.] Even Ruth Anne, who is usually so full of energy, found it an arduous trek. She was going to see if it would be possible for Shaun and Elizabeth to take 3 days to reach ABC rather than the normal two.

Again, as in BC, we have our own tents, which is a nice luxury. Mine is situated near the dining tent and out along a ridge together with Fred and Denuru (our climbing Sherpa). I have a spectacular view of Cho Oyu out the front of the tent. Our group is closest to the mountain and not clustered in with the other expeditions. There are quite a few other expeditions here at ABC. It’s almost a small city.

I need to be careful of things, such as my camera and contacts, freezing at night because it gets so cold. The best solution seems to be to sleep with the things I don’t want to freeze.

It also seems that paranoia about my health increases with altitude. I would hate to get sicker than I am, especially with something serious such as pulmonary or cerebral edema. Part of keeping a good mental attitude will be dispelling those fears. This is the highest I’ve been for such an extended period of time and as such it is certainly entering new territory for me.

 

4/19 (ABC)

 

            Today is a rest day. I can’t say I’m too disappointed. I had a cold and restless night. I didn’t get much sleep till I took half a Diamox. They’re about the only thing that helps me sleep when I initially reach a new altitude and before I become better acclimated. They seem to help my breathing return to normal and stop the Cheyne-Stokes breathing, which makes me feel like I’m suffocating.

            We have a tremendous view of Cho Oyu. It is very intimidating. Self-doubt runs rampant, until I can actually start this. In a couple of days we will make the first carries to Camp 1. Getting up on the mountain should help reduce the sense of awe and intimidation. From ABC we can watch through a telescope and see people attacking the ice cliff, that is one of the main technical cruxes of the climb. Denuru, who has climbed the mountain twice before, says it looks much easier than last year. And it really doesn’t look as challenging as I had imagined.

            In another American expedition, I met Chuck Demeret (sp?) who I knew from Rocky Mountain Rescue in Boulder. He has also climbed Gasherbrum II in Pakistan. [I later heard he climbed Everest in 1998] They arrived before we did and are well on their way toward climbing the mountain. It’s bizarre meeting people I know on a mountain in Tibet!

 

4/20 (ABC)

 

            Another rest day. I’m trying hard to get rid of this cough. It’s not high altitude hack, as I’ve had before on Denali, but instead is related to my cold and sinuses. It was another restless night. I was a bit warmer this time but my feet ended up higher than my head so I was constantly readjusting. I have one of the extra sleeping bags that I use in addition to the foam pads to keep off the cold ground. I took a Diamox before bedtime. I don’t know if it helped or not, but I was up a lot using the pee bottle and once had to get out of the tent. Life is pretty uncomfortable. I’m trying to be persistent. Trying Alka-seltzer cold tabs to see if that helps my cold. The altitude appears to give me weird and very vivid dreams, mostly of home and things not readily available here - phones, cars, streets- some of the things we take for granted.

 

4/21 (ABC+)

 

            Finally had a great night’s sleep. My cough was minimal and I stayed warm. We went on a partial carry to Camp 1. The route winds slowly up the glacier on a well-established trail. The first main stop is a large rock, nicknamed the “piano bar”, which is about an hour out of ABC. Along the glacier are a number of ice towers, or penitentes, formed by the melting sun. They are quite spectacular and add some interest to this part of the route. The next major feature is what Dave calls the “shit pile”. It is a steep hill consisting of loose gravel and rocks that goes from the glacier to a flat area at the base of the scree slope that leads to Camp 1. We managed to reach the base of the scree slope, where Dave decided to send Ruth Anne and I back down. I think she was much worse off than I was with her cough, so he must have decided to give us both a rest. It was a pretty strenuous carry to ~ 19,000+ feet, so I didn’t object too vehemently. Besides, it was a good way to build my strength. Fred and Dave continued on to Camp 1 carrying our stuff as well.

I was partnered with Fred, who was patient and helpful. He really seems like a nice guy. I’m usually at the back of the pack when we start, but over time it seems to even out. In the final analysis, we really weren’t going that much slower than the others. I think some of the others are simply more competitive, which I don’t think is necessarily good for the team. It’s good to have strong people but not necessarily those who boast of their accomplishments or only support the strong.

As a team we are gradually moving things up the mountain and setting up camps. The guides and Denuru do most of the work. The rest of us carry fuel, sleeping bags, pads, cooking equipment, and other small items up the hill.

            Shaun and Elizabeth rejoined us today. It’s good to have the team whole again. Shaun looked tired and so did Elizabeth, but she wouldn’t admit it.

 

4/22 (ABC)

 

            Rest day. Not much to report, except it’s my second wedding anniversary. I’ve been gone over three weeks now and it seems we’ve barely made progress on the mountain.

 

4/23 (ABC+)

 

            Another partial carry to Camp 1. It started out cold and windy and pretty much stayed that way. I made it past the “shit pile” without much problem. We made it up most of the scree slope (within 45 minutes of Camp1) till Dave decided to send Shaun, Ruth Anne, and I down because of threatening storms. We reached about 20,000 feet. I’m disappointed we didn’t reach Camp 1, but feel stronger with the carry. Shaun was our guide today and I think it worked out well. He’s pretty easy-going, yet still drives us forward.

The view from the scree slope is quite spectacular. If you look up you get a good view up the ridge to the summit and can easily see the ice cliff that we will have to surmount on the way to Camp 2. Looking down from the scree slope you get a good view of the glacier, and the ice pentitentes, which now seems so far below. We’re now getting high enough to see some of the surrounding mountains. If you like the beauty of snow-covered mountains, this is the place to be. As hard as it is to climb up the scree slope, it’s sometimes difficult to appreciate the beauty when all you’re focusing on is putting one foot in front of the other.

On the way down we met up with Laughlin who was suffering from mild hypothermia. Sean and I got him warmed up with some extra clothes and escorted him down. For a while there, he wasn’t doing too well, but recovered quickly. It’s a harsh environment and not to be taken lightly. Pemba told us that he heard that an Argentine climber died during the night.

            I have to be more conscientious to drink more and stay hydrated, especially after a strenuous day.

 

4/24 (ABC)

 

            A rest day at ABC. My cough is still an annoyance, but it is gradually improving. It’s not the five-minute convulsions anymore. I’m still trying to watch it and hope it doesn’t get any worse.

 

4/25 (ABC - Camp 1)

 

            I finally made the carry to Camp 1. In a 5+ hour slog, Ruth Anne, Shaun, and I made it. As usual, at the beginning I was trailing the pack but I managed to catch up on the scree slope. It’s quite a grunt to Camp 1 - especially the scree slope. It is literally putting one foot in front of the other and plodding along. It’s exhausting work, mostly because of the altitude and me not feeling well. I’m pleased that we finally made it. I’ve overcome a major psychological hurdle by making it this far. Also, it’s a new personal altitude record at 20,800 feet. On the return trip we ran into both a blizzard and extreme heat on the glacier within minutes of each other. You really have to carry extra clothes to handle the possible extremes, which just add to the load you regularly carry from camp to camp. We didn’t carry much to Camp 1, just some fuel cylinders and sleeping bags, but it’s a contribution to the effort, and is the traditional load for everyone - no wonder it takes so long to stock the camps!

 

4/26 (ABC)

 

            Rest day.

The typical weather pattern at ABC is to have a clear, warm (relatively) morning with afternoon snow. We typically get around ½ inch of snow each afternoon, which usually is melted by the morning sun. The situation on the summit is quite different. There is typically a plume of snow blowing off the top with only occasional days that are clear. This is a clear sign of the high winds that rake the summit and are thwarting many summit attempts.

The typical breakfast consists of eggs in the morning, usually two apiece, cooked in a variety of means. Dave jokes with Pemba and refers to them as “eggy-weggys”. Occasionally we have pancakes, which is a treat, and tend to go fast. We always have lots of Sherpa tea, which is black tea with lots of milk and sugar. It’s actually quite good, but I try not to drink too much for fear of staying awake because of the caffeine. Another staple drink is powdered cocoa and hot water.

It’s important to drink a lot to stay hydrated at altitude, so we’re always plied with something to drink. In the evening Pemba fills our water bottles with hot water which we then sleep with. It sure helps takes the chill out of your sleeping bags and in the morning the water becomes part of your water for the day. The insulating bags for my water bottles have come in handy. Even if it feels warm because of the intense sun it is actually quite cold and below freezing all the time, so the water will freeze if not protected.

            We try and maintain good hygiene in order to prevent the spread of colds and other diseases so we always have a thermos with a drip spout outside the cook tent available to wash our hands before eating. Considering the various sicknesses that abound, this is a good idea.

            Today I finally had a good chance to do some laundry. Pemba put some hot water in a bowl that I could use to wash out some of my clothes. They were getting a bit ripe, but really not too bad considering how long I’ve been living in them. Also got a chance to take a sponge bath and clean up a bit. That in itself makes you feel better. Washing my hair helps too and makes you feel clean for a change. Ruth Anne and Elizabeth are the connoisseurs of the shampoo, and those who didn’t bring any are going to them for handouts, and often asking for it by brand name! (as if they have a preference!). Ruth Anne and Elizabeth regularly do their laundry and clean up. The males, on the other hand, aren’t quite so diligent.

I’m getting quite a beard now, and except for the gray it doesn’t look too bad. We’ll see what Melva thinks about it when I get home.

            Dinner is usually not too exciting. In many cases it seems barely edible. We have a number of dishes with cabbage, often lentils, sometimes Pemba’s variety of pizza (cabbage and yak cheese, which is definitely not exciting). The food treats seem to be anything with salmon or hot dogs. Otherwise, we just seem to get along. It’s hard to maintain your appetite at altitude and considering the menu, on some days it’s hard enough to choke it down. But food is energy, and energy is what gets you up the mountain. Since I’ve been sick, I think that depresses my appetite even more, which is further draining my energy, which makes it harder to get better. I seem to be caught in a vicious downward spiral.

            Today is Ruth Anne’s birthday. Pemba made a birthday cake and decorated it. He really goes out of his way. Elizabeth brought plates, horns, and a bubble blower. The Sherpas and Sonam really got a kick out of it and Pemba especially was having fun blowing bubbles. I don’t know if Sonam had ever seen anything like it before.

            Sonam is a local Tibetan who came into camp looking for work. Elizabeth decided to “hire” him to look after her on her hikes and he has been put to good use helping Pemba in the kitchen doing things like cleaning up and carrying water. Even getting paid next to nothing, by our standards, is a veritable fortune to him. He stands to make more money on this expedition than many Tibetans make in a year.

            Elizabeth has been going out on short hikes up the glacier with the hope of one day making it to Camp 1. She hasn’t made it very far yet, but is persistent. Dave Hahn refers to her as the “tresser” rather than trekker and she even wrote that on her insulated cup. To this day, I doubt she knows what a “tresser” is.

            Richard and Denuru came down after establishing Camp 2 disappointed that they couldn’t continue and set up Camp 3. Richard is an exceptionally strong climber and struggles hard to keep up with Denuru, which he can almost do. Fred and Kei were setting up fixed ropes between Camps 1 and 2.

            Shaun was hit by a migraine headache and so I went over to the Canadian camp and got Grant, their doctor, to come over and have a look at him. He didn’t find anything wrong, which is good for Shaun.

 

4/27 (ABC)

 

            Finally getting ready to move up to Camp 1 and stay there to begin more of the acclimatization process. Began sorting out the minimum gear to bring up the mountain. My blue Gore-Tex pants that have been a lot of places are finally beginning to fall apart. The plastic zipper broke and Elizabeth volunteered to sew it together.

            We watched as members of the other American team were going for the summit. They arrived earlier than we did and are much further along in their preparations. Their team is very competitive and seems to be in a hurry. We met one member who was disappointed that he wasn’t able to go to the summit. He was a bit sick but still felt left behind by the others. In that group the individuals seems to work more for themselves than for the good of the group, and leave the weak behind. Maybe that’s how it works on other expeditions?

            Kei and Fred came back down after fixing ropes. Terry, Laughlin, and Dave carried from Camp 1 to Camp 2.

 

4/28 (ABC)

 

            Today ended up being an abortive attempt to reach Camp 1. Shaun, Ruth Ann, and I got a late start hoping to make a leisurely stroll to Camp 1. We reached the piano bar, which is about an hour out of camp at around 11:00 and met Dave, who was coming down. He said we were being too leisurely and sent us down to try again tomorrow. Since I didn’t sleep well last night, that is fine with me. Shaun went through our packs again to reduce some weight so we might move faster tomorrow. He helped us separate out what was needed immediately and what could be brought up on a later carry. Fred volunteered to carry some of it up with him. Fred seems to fit the mold of a very helpful guide. Although he is relatively quiet, he is always there to help and give encouragement.

 

4/29 (ABC - Camp 1)

 

            Ruth Ann, Shaun, and I reached Camp 1 in a slow six-hour trek. But we did reach it! It is a slow plod up the moraine and is quite tedious. It felt easier this time since I had a better idea of what to expect from the previous trips, but it is still a grind. The three tents, which make up our camp, are situated at the base of a small ice cliff, slightly away from the rest of the other groups’ tents and just below the ridge. It is a good spot and should be well protected. At the base of the cliff is a crevasse that has become the lavatory. It’s a bit awkward, but quite usable. Ice for water is readily available by chipping away the ice cliff. Shaun and I went out and filled a few bags of ice, which should get us through dinner and breakfast.

            We had beef stew for dinner, which was actually quite a treat. It is the first beef I’ve had in quite a while and it tasted pretty good, even though it was a military MRE!

            I’m sharing a tent with Shaun and Ruth Ann is alone in the equipment tent. I’m trying to do most of the cooking and melting ice, since I feel it’s the least I can do. I think it’s important to work together to get things done and to operate as a team, so I don’t mind pitching in and doing what little I can.

 

4/30  (Camp 1+)

 

            Today was the first foray up the ridge toward Camp 2. It’s fairly steep ice and snow in spots, so it’s time to put on the crampons and go! It was pretty pleasurable to finally get out and feel like I’m climbing rather than trudging up the scree slope. I’d much rather be climbing on snow and ice than scree. We almost reached the ice cliff before the others started getting cold and wanted to turn around. The wind was blowing all day with occasional snow, so it was pretty brisk. I wasn’t too cold, probably because I had more clothes than the others, and was a bit disappointed when we turned around. I was hoping to get higher than we got, but that’s the breaks.

I’m moving a bit slower then Shaun and Ruth Ann, which is not surprising due to a lack of sleep. I’ve been reluctant to take Diamox, which helps me to sleep. In the future, I’ll have to rethink this strategy, as I really need my sleep. It seems like I don’t get much sleep, especially the first night at a new altitude.

 

5/1 (Camp 1)

 

            Last night was miserable. I didn’t get any sleep and had a major case of diarrhea. I barely made it out of the tent before I had to go with explosive force. I just can’t win; just when I think I’m getting better something happens to make it worse. It also would be nice if I didn’t have to wear glasses, it really hinders my ability to get around at night especially at night when it’s cold and my glasses fog up and I can’t see.

            We started towards Camp 2 but I didn’t get very far until it was obvious my energy reserves were at zero. I returned to Camp 1 while Ruth Ann and Shaun pressed on a bit longer until they got too cold to continue.

            I spent the day in the tent trying to rehydrate and restore my energy. The overall lack of sleep, plus getting sicker is really dragging me down.

 

5/2 (Camp 1 to ABC)

 

            Ruth Ann and I returned to ABC while Shaun decided to carry on to Camp 2. I got a fairly decent night’s sleep despite a bout of diarrhea in the night. The upset seems to be accompanied by a tremendous amount of gas. I’m wondering if there is something in the food or water, or if it is a result of the change in diet - eating the MREs. Whatever the cause, it is definitely weakening. The return to ABC was quite slow. I felt very weak and each hill was a challenge. This is clearly more than just the debilitating effect of altitude.

            On my return to ABC I spoke with Dave Hahn at some length about my prospects and climbing options. At this point the possibility of reaching the summit seems very remote. With each passing day, my energy level seems to get lower and lower and I don’t seem to be able to reverse the trend. Dave suggested that a reasonable goal would be to reach Camp 2 and to take the next few days to try and restore my energy. I’m trying to figure out why I’m performing so poorly and reverse this downward trend. Has this cold/ whatever been zapping my strength? It’s been very persistent and I can’t seem to shake it, and this latest round of being sick has certainly not helped my cause. Am I not eating enough? I certainly don’t have much of an appetite and the food is not very appealing, so I’m sure I’m not eating enough and am losing strength because of it. Is the accumulated lack of sleep been that debilitating? I hope the next few days will yield some answers and possibly some results. If not maybe after the trip, or attempt, to get to Camp 2, I can get out of here early. It’s possible that things just aren’t clicking for me on this expedition, and chalk this trip up to experience. At this point I have no real regrets about the probability that I won’t make it to the summit. Naturally, I’m disappointed but, as miserable as I’ve felt, I’ll be glad to get out of here and recuperate. It’s been hard and frustrating not being able to perform as I would like. I feel my training was adequate, so I’m at a loss as to what I would have done differently. Maybe not get sick? But there is no way to change that. Dave seems convinced that the misery I’m feeling is a normal part of high altitude mountaineering. I’m not so convinced. I’m certainly suffering the effects of hypoxia with the lack of sleep and reduction of appetite, but I’ve seemed to adjust to the altitude of ABC and sleep well here. I think the problem is more related to this cold or sinus problem I’ve developed. I’ve now resorted to antibiotics to try and eliminate the sinus problems. At this point I’m willing to try anything. My ribs hurt quite a bit when I take a breath, so obviously my coughing fits have been detrimental. It is not just the usual high altitude hack either. That is more a drying of the lungs, this is my sinuses constantly draining and producing a cough.

 

5/3 (ABC)

 

            Rebuilding day. I want to see if the rest, rehydration, and eating more can rebuild my strength and energy. This is probably my last chance to see if I can get enough energy to climb this mountain. I see a lot of people now going for the summit and succeeding and I need to figure out how I can get the energy to join them. The weather is still questionable, but there are occasional openings for summit attempts. There is a lot of luck involved in hitting a good weather window.

 

5/4 (ABC)

 

            Another rest day. This is also a decision day. The guides went off by themselves to discuss strategy and to decide on the teams for the summit bids. Ruth Ann, Dave, Richard, and I are on a team leaving the 6th. Terry will be leaving the day after us and Laughlin will go the following day. Our team’s initial goal is Camp 2 and whatever we can do beyond that is gravy. There is the possibility of coming back down after Camp 2 and trying again, but I consider it remote. This really will be my one chance to make the summit. I’ve got my work cut out for me to rebuild my energy and get psyched up for the attempt - it might just be possible.  I’ve been eating better, and forcing myself to eat more, and the effects seem to be positive. I’m also planning to be more liberal in my use of Diamox to help me sleep and acclimatize. I just hope it is not too little too late.

 

5/5 (ABC)

 

            While resting today we got a good reality check on the seriousness of climbing this mountain. We were watching a group of Basque climbers descend from the summit in the morning after spending the night high on the mountain. They got a late start and had to bivouac near the summit. On the way down one of the climbers was repeatedly falling and stumbling on his way down. At one point he didn’t get up for a while and he was thought to be dead. A group of Austrian climbers volunteered to go up and try and help bring them down. I wish I could help, but at this altitude I don’t have the strength to spare.

 

5/6 (ABC - Camp 1)

 

            It took a little under six hours to get to Camp 1. As usual it was quite a slog up the hill. I kept consoling myself with the fact that I wouldn’t have to do it again. The moraine is losing a lot of snow, so it’s mostly a rocky walk. The rocks are unstable so it can be tricky and also very awkward in double boots and a pack. I don’t enjoy it at all. I had a good pasta dinner and I think the extra eating is helping to keep up my little remaining strength. I ended up with a tent to myself that was quite a luxury. During the night a German group brought down the Basque climbers who were frostbitten after spending the night out by the summit. No one is overly sympathetic since they made some bad climbing decisions: starting late, and not turning back when they should. Some of the climbers, mostly the Europeans, have some strange climbing ethics. They think nothing of using someone else’s tent, especially at Camp 3, rather than set up their own camp. It’s as if they want someone else to do the work. The same attitude seems to apply for using fixed rope as well. Our group established most of the fixed line on the mountain, and it is widely used by everyone.

 

5/7 (Camp 1 - Camp2)

 

            Finally made it to Camp 2! What a hard day! Ruth Ann decided to quit before we reached the ice cliff so she and Richard turned around there. Dave and I continued on to Camp 2 by ourselves. It was an 8-9 hour odyssey and I was relieved to finally make it. Dave set a reasonable pace that I could keep up with and we just kept plodding along. It snowed for most of the day so I couldn’t see more than 50 feet ahead. It was a good thing Dave knew the way.

The first major obstacle was the ice cliff. It was difficult going up with a pack, but otherwise quite manageable. The ice is very hard so it’s not quite like the ice climbing I’ve done. It’s hard to get a good grip on the ice, so you just end up balancing in the steps of others. Using the fixed ropes is awkward since you have the jumar in one hand and your ice axe in the other. It would be much easier if you had two ice tools and could climb in a more straightforward fashion. At the top of the ice cliff is a second camp that some of the groups use as an intermediate camp. After a short respite, you again go up more ice slopes, which are fixed with rope as well. These are not as steep as the ice cliff but going up the fixed ropes was quite a chore and was quite slow. I was really huffing and puffing as I moved up the line. I ended up using one hand to move the jumar up the rope and the other to hold the rope while I moved the jumar. And all the time I’m also trying to maintain my balance by using my ice axe. It ends up being quite awkward and it might have been easier to use the rope more to pull myself up.

When we reached the top of the fixed lines, Dave was concerned about it having taken so long to reach this point and issued an ultimatum that we either speed up or head back down. I wasn’t too thrilled about heading back down so I managed to pick up the pace and we made it to Camp 2 in good time. Our camp was situated higher than the other camps, so we had a number of camps to pass through before reaching ours. I was very relieved to finally reach it.

I was breathing pretty heavily and very rapidly when I finally sat down; I was almost hyperventilating at this altitude. As I started to relax my cold finally caught up to me and I began to cough, which really made me feel miserable. In the time it takes to cough, I also needed to breathe, and so I felt like I was fighting a losing battle and couldn’t catch my breath. I was feeling nauseous and was on the verge of being sick. I made the mistake of saying how lousy I felt and it made Dave concerned enough to wonder if I was bad enough that we had to go down. I didn’t mean to alarm him; I was just talking out loud. Clearly, I’ll have to watch what I say in the future.

Dave went out collecting ice to melt for dinner while I got the tent in order. After resting for a while I began to feel much better and pitched in to melt ice for dinner and drinks. After eating, I put on my down suit to keep warm and also to sleep in. It’s quite cold, I don’t know quite how cold, but I’m sure it’s well below zero. The sleeping bags aren’t very thick so you sleep in your down gear to keep warm.

On the evening radio call to ABC, there were a lot of congratulations from other members of the team that I had made it to Camp 2. As bad as I felt at ABC, I was relieved that I had made it this far. For me this is a new personal altitude record; Dave estimates that it is about 23,500 feet. We heard on the radio that the Basque climbers were badly frostbitten and had to be carried out by Sherpas. Apparently, they tried to get a helicopter from Nepal, but there were problems with it crossing into China. And the pilot wasn’t willing to land on the other side of the Nangpa La and have the people illegally cross the border.

All things considered I actually feel pretty good. This is the best I’ve felt in quite a while. The altitude clearly is affecting me. I am breathing rapidly, even when I try and rest. My mind is racing, sometimes in strange directions, but I seem remarkably coherent. (Of course, Dave could have a completely different impression!). I remember waking up in the middle of the night to put on sunscreen since I thought my skin was burning. After being out a high altitude it probably had burned during the day, but it was very strange how it occurred to me in the middle of the night. It is bizarre how my mind works sometimes.

 

5/8 (Camp 2 - ABC)

 

            Waking up this morning I actually feel pretty good for a change. Looking up, the summit seems so close. There is the usual wind plume coming off the summit, so the weather up there doesn’t look very promising. Dave is trying to figure out how we could turn this foray to Camp 2 into a summit attempt. At this point, I’m happy with my success so far; I’m not pushing for a summit attempt. I feel like I’ve accomplished a significant goal already by making it to Camp 2. Based on this, we decide to come down and give up the summit attempt. I know Dave would have rather tried for the summit, but I didn’t feel up to it. And given the adverse weather conditions, I didn’t think it was a good idea at the time. In hindsight, I really wish we had tried to go for the summit. It was probably the right decision for the time, but I really want to reach the summit.

On the way down from Camp 2 we met Denuru, Richard, Fred and Terry on their way up the ice cliff on their summit attempt. They all congratulate me on the effort, and I’m sure they are very sincere, but it seems hollow to me since I didn’t reach the summit. Continuing down it is a long trudge back across the moraine to ABC. Dave left at Camp 1 while I was collecting my gear, and scurried on ahead.

On the way back across the moraine the base camp manager for the Canadian group made a disparaging comment about Dave not being good guide since he didn’t stay with me. Quite frankly, why should he? By now the path back to ABC is well known and besides, if any one of us cannot find our way down, we probably don’t deserve to be here in the first place. Later I read her trip report on the Internet and she was making unwarranted comments about guided expeditions there. Clearly, she questioned the qualifications of the people on our trip solely because we were a “guided” expedition. Ironically, we had a better success rate on the mountain than their expedition. Also as a group we got along much better than their group and did not suffer the fragmentation and ego games that plagued their expedition.

            Just outside ABC Sonam met me bringing tea. It was really welcome and greatly appreciated. Sonam and the Sherpas are very thoughtful and help as much as they can. They are great to have around.

 

5/9 (ABC)

 

            Ruth Ann and Elizabeth have decided to go down and give up any further attempts. They have invited me to go with them and share the jeep back to Kathmandu. At this point, I don’t think I can rally for another summit attempt (another decision I will come to regret) so, I agree to go with them. I spend much of the day reluctantly packing to go. I sold Shaun my CD Discman since they can’t get them cheaply in New Zealand. Since it was brand new, I gave it to him for a little less than I paid for it. He has promised to send me the money when he gets home (and, true to his word he does – but it is amazing how much money is taken by the banks when you do an international money transfer!). I also sold him my OR gaiters for the same reason.

            Terry and the others are on their way to Camp 3 from Camp 2 on their summit attempt. Today would have been the summit day for Dave and I. From my perspective, the weather looks pretty bad. There is the usual snow plume blowing off the summit. Dave says,  with disappointment clear in his voice, that he thought a strong team could make it. Since I don’t feel that strong, it would have been quite an effort on my part to make it.

            One strange aftereffect of the trip to Camp 2 is that my tongue got sunburned. It’s tender and I can’t taste much (which may be a good thing).  It’s weird and slightly amusing in retrospect.

            Shaun, Kei, and Laughlin leave late to go to Camp 1 for their summit attempt. I’m going to miss them all and their companionship and support.

 

5/10 (ABC - Base Camp)

 

            Very early this morning, Terry, Richard, and Fred left for their summit attempt. During breakfast we learned that they had aborted the attempt due to poor conditions. We were able to watch them through the telescope as they struggled to retreat. Descending the rock band above Camp 3 we can see the rope blowing horizontally as they attempted to rappel down. It seemed like quite a struggle and we are torn about whether to go down or to wait and see how things work out for them. Since there is not much we can do, Dave encourages us to head down to BC since he has worked to arrange transport for us back to Kathmandu.  He sent a FAX to Eric Simonson’s wife at IMG and we’re hoping she got it – but don’t know for sure until we get to the Nepal border and someone from Great Escapes is there to meet us. Talk about uncertainty! Dave hired some local Tibetans to help carry our stuff down to BC. It certainly eases our burden some, but we still have to have enough alternate clothing with us in case the weather changes.

I decided to leave my double boots behind. They were broken and had to be repaired earlier and they weren’t worth the effort of bringing back. Perhaps one of the Tibetans will keep them and find a use for them.

On the way down we passed the German base camp. It is back on the main glacier, around the corner from where we set up our base camp and significantly lower. Apparently it is where the base camp was for the first ascent party. Considering where it is located, they have an additional 45 minutes to an hour further to go to Camp 1 than we had. Maybe the lower altitude helps them?

            It was quite a long trip down to base camp. Every hill was excruciating to climb back up. We deviated from the “trail” a number of times, but always managed to find our way back. I’m sure the added “diversions” slowed us down some. When we finally came to the river in the valley outside BC, it took us awhile to find a good place to cross. Fortunately, we were able to find a snow bridge across so we didn’t have to wade across it. It was late enough in the season that the snow was soft and in danger of collapse at any moment, which would have landed us in a very cold, ice-fed river. After gingerly picking our way across, we were back on the road and headed for home. As we came within sight of BC, Yung Kai She came out to help. He seemed overjoyed at seeing us and I gratefully gave him my pack to carry. He seemed desperate to want to do something, anything, for us. After sitting at BC for all this time, he must have been going stircrazy. He’s not a hiker, so there couldn’t be much for him to do. The job of interpreter and liaison officer must be incredibly boring.

            We finally made our acquaintance with Pasang once again. He had stayed at base camp to guard our stuff. He seemed to enjoy cooking dinner for us. I’m sure it was lonely for him as well. We made contact with ABC via the radio and heard that Terry and the rest had made it safely back to ABC where he’ll be able to rest up for another attempt.

            It’s hard sorting out the stuff and packing to go home. Nothing seems to fit in the duffels as well as it did getting here. I have a few more trinkets, but it shouldn’t be this hard! I ended up leaving a ridgerest pad.

 

5/11 (Base camp - Kathmandu)

 

After another meal by Pasang, we are ready to go back to Kathmandu. Ruth Ann and especially Elizabeth are having a hard time saying goodbye to Sonam. He’s been a lot of help for her, and I’m sure they have grown close. He very thoughtfully went and bought some katas to present to us. Katas are a long silk scarf that people give each other when traveling for good luck. It was an incredibly thoughtful gesture that brought tears to Elizabeth’s eyes. She tried giving him a tip but he wouldn’t take it, so she ended up pinning it to his jacket. It was probably more money than he would make in a year, but his affection for Elizabeth was so genuine that he didn’t want to accept it. I ended up giving him my blue Gore-Tex pants which, although they had seem some wear on this trip, were still better than a lot of the things the Tibetans have. Ruth Ann and Elizabeth had more clothes that they no longer needed that soon became presents from Sonam.

            The ride out to Tingri was not without the usual incidents as well. Just outside of BC we had to stop and repair the carburetor.  And close to Tingri we had to stop and pull Mr. Blue and his jeep out of the mud. This ended up being a blessing in disguise as we got to witness a wedding procession into town. The bride was riding horseback arrayed in a beautiful white gown. It looked remarkably similar to their everyday dress, but in white. She was a stunning bride. To top it off we had a fantastic view of the Himalayas – including Everest and Cho Oyu. Just outside Tingri there were a couple of children plowing their field the hard way with a yak pulling a plow. Watching them is a trip back in time.

            Between Tingri and the Tibet/Nepal border we travel along the Friendship highway, built to ease trade between Tibet and Nepal. Along the way we had to go over another 17,000+ foot pass. From the top of the pass there was a stunning view of Shishapangma. Further on, we began to descend into more fields that were just beginning to turn green with the spring. After months of winter, and the desolation of ABC, it is nice to see green again. Dave called the highway to the border the “Valium Highway” due to the steep drops and the fact that in many places it has to be constantly repaired because of the frequent landslides. It’s quite an interesting place that has spectacular and remarkably harsh scenery. Near the border you enter a deep valley that is lush and green, with lots of water and vegetation. The drivers use a waterfall that washes over the road as a convenient carwash. After the dryness of the high Tibetan plateau, this is like a rain forest.

            Just prior to reaching the border we passed through the town of Nyalam. There we had to pass through another of the many Chinese checkpoints along the highway. This time though, Yung Kai She told us we had to pay some fee to pass through. We managed to evade his attempted extortion by saying that Dave Hahn told us he would pay for all fees to get us out. When it became obvious that his little scheme would not work, he gave up the attempt. I later learned from Mark and Sue that he tried the same thing with their group – also to no avail. It really torques me the level of corruption and deceit that they think they can get away with. I certainly didn’t come away with good feelings toward the Chinese representatives. I understand that these shakedowns are not uncommon.

            On the Chinese side of the border, there is a town called Zangmu. On the Nepalese side, it is called Kodari. Zangmu is situated high on a hillside, while Kodari is low in the valley on the other side of a river. In Zangmu we part company with the Chinese and carry our bags across the border where we met someone hired by Great Escapes to help us get back to Kathmandu. We piled all our bags into a tiny tuk-tuk, along with a few other people who they picked up along the way for an exciting ride down the hill to the Nepal border. Since I had some small bills left, it was up to me to tip the people that helped us with the bags. It may sound a bit sexist, but they responded better to my nos when they wanted more money than they did to the ladies. Ruth Ann and Elizabeth even thanked me for taking care of it. The ride from Zangmu to Kodari is quite steep, enhanced by the fact we’re piled on top of each other. After passing through Nepalese customs we were met by another driver from Great Escapes with a van to take us to Kathmandu.

            The road from Kodari to Kathmandu is vastly different than the road from Tingri to Zangmu. While Tibet is dry and barren, Nepal is lush and green. Once you get over the initial shock, you really see the beauty of this area. There are tall steep mountains that have been terraced into gardens with small clusters of houses scattered about. There are a lot more people and activity along the road. You feel like you’ve come back to civilization. The Nepali driver was very accommodating about stopping every now and then for picture taking.  Once we met one of the local buses stuck going up a hill and all the passengers were out back trying to push it up the hill. The local buses are ornately decorated with religious symbols and colorful paint; certainly not the drab buses of home. Along the route there was a lot of construction to improve the road and the drainage. I can imagine that during the monsoon the roads can turn into hopeless mud puddles.

            During the ride, I had a lot of time to talk with Ruth Ann about the climb and the decision to turn back. At 23,000 feet you realize your mortality and what is important in life. For this trip, it seemed foolhardy to try and push myself beyond my physical limits. Given the fact that I felt lousy and really wasn’t operating as well as I would have liked, it could have been dangerous to push too far. Maybe I could have made it (I did feel pretty good at the time). But probably not. I’ll never know, and it seemed like the right decision at the time. I have someone special to come home to, and I didn’t want to do anything to jeopardize that.  Ruth Ann seemed to understand and agree. For both of us it was a trying expedition. Elizabeth made the comment that she believed that I would come back and make it the next time. At the time this seemed absolutely crazy to me. I could not conceive of coming back. I felt this was my once in a lifetime shot and I couldn’t envision trying again (little did I know…). Her comment also reminded me of a comment that Richard made about the first time going to the Himalayas it is not uncommon to get your ass kicked. I certainly felt that way on the ride back. But I was also strangely relieved that after weeks of feeling miserable I was finally on my way home.

            We arrived in Kathmandu late in the evening and stayed at the Hotel Vasra which is located up the hill near Swayambhunath. From the way Ruth Ann and Elizabeth talked I expected a luxury hotel, maybe like a low end Hilton. With my expectations so high, my room ended up being kind of a dump. It was comfortable and had a certain charm, but it was not what I expected. But it did have the most important thing – a hot shower. I don’t know how long I stayed in the shower luxuriating in the first shower I had in over a month. It felt fantastic. One of the most frightening moments was looking at myself in the mirror, also for the first time in a month, and not recognizing myself! I was deeply tanned from the sun, even with SPF 45 sunscreen, with a beard and long scruffy hair. I was quite a sight – even to myself.

On our way into the hotel we met a guy who had been following the results of expeditions. He was trying to argue in vain with me about events on Cho Oyu. He didn’t seem to believe us even though I certainly didn’t look like I had just returned from a tropical cruise.

            And the best thing the hotel had was a comfortable bed. After sleeping in a tent on the cold ground I felt like I was in heaven.

 

5/12 (Kathmandu - Bangkok)

 

After one of the soundest sleeps I had in a long time, I woke up famished. We hadn’t eaten much the previous day so I was ready for some real food. It was a treat to the palate to hike into Thamel to a bakery and chomp down on some donuts. After a month of “eggy-weggies” they were like ambrosia. Perhaps what struck me just as much was the feeling of coming back into civilization - Kathmandu seemed very welcome – almost like a big city. My previous impression was that it was something of a dump. After the harshness of Tibet it just felt good. It has a certain exotic charm that grows on you.

            After eating, I returned to the hotel to see if Ruth Ann and Elizabeth were up and about. I met them just outside the hotel and they told me they had gotten frantic calls from Great Escapes looking for me and that I had a flight out that afternoon. Originally I was hoping to stay in Kathmandu a bit longer and go exploring, but I seized the opportunity, got back in touch with Great Escapes, and was on a plane to Bangkok that afternoon.

 

5/13 (Bangkok - LA)

 

            After spending the night at the Amari hotel in the Bangkok airport, I found out that my flight didn’t leave until late that afternoon. I also found out that if I had spent another day in Kathmandu, I would have been able to leave Bangkok on a morning flight and avoid a day in Bangkok. Oh well, I’ll file that away for the future. I considered trying to go into town, or taking a tour of Bangkok, but didn’t know if I would get back to the airport in time for the flight. While wandering, I discovered a Burger King in the Bangkok airport. It seems really out of place. For lunch I ended up eating at the Thai restaurant in the hotel to see what “real” Thai food was. I opted for a shrimp TomKaiGai soup and was surprised when it was served with the whole shrimp.  It was delicious, but I could do without the shrimp heads.

 

5/14 (LA - home)

 

            It was a long flight back to LA. I arrived late so I ended up spending the night at the LA Marriott. From there it was two short flights and I’m finally home. It felt awkward coming home after being gone so long. It may take a day to get used to it again. It eased the transition by making the first stop at Josh and Johns ice cream. After a month of “interesting” food this is quite a treat.

 

Epilogue

 

            Even though I left early, the expedition still continued and had its share of drama. Terry, Dave, Richard, and Fred made it to the summit. Laughlin ended up giving up after Camp 2, but Shaun and Kei pressed on. I was very surprised Laughlin didn’t make it since he seemed very strong. Kei ended up making it.  Shaun turned around at 8000 meters due to the cold. I was really hoping he would make it up his first 8000 meter mountain. He was defeated on Everest, so I was hoping he would get Cho Oyu, at least. Mark and Sue make it to Camp 3 before Sue has serious problems with her eyes and they were forced to retreat.

            I later heard that Richard made it up Everest on another of Eric’s expeditions. Dave Hahn has since made it up Everest a few more times.

 

            On anything of this magnitude where I haven’t succeeded, I can always say there is something I learned from the experience.  I can’t really say I failed. To me that means I didn’t learn anything from the trip. Even though I didn’t make the summit, I gained a lot of valuable high altitude experience.  Not being healthy from the start really reduced my chances and ended up being too significant a barrier to overcome. There was a slight chance of going to the summit with Dave, but I consider that actually making it was remote. Given the weather, I don’t think I would have been up to the task.

In many ways I felt overwhelmed by the entire experience. I was in a place that I had dreamt about for so long that it didn’t quite feel real. We spent a lot of time playing tourist in Tibet and Nepal, which I believe ended up being more of a distraction. It was difficult to focus on the events ahead and the task of climbing the mountain. And, quite frankly, the mountain was intimidating. With all the distractions I may not have been as psychologically prepared for the experience, as I should have been.

What does all this mean? What I though would be a once in a lifetime opportunity may not be. Perhaps it’s not an all or nothing proposition - the mountain is still there, I’m alive and can try again. Mentally I should be in better condition knowing that I can make it to Camp 2. It was higher than I had ever been and I was pleased that I didn’t suffer any adverse effects of being at that altitude. As a matter of fact, I felt pretty good at that height. That helps a lot. I don’t like to be defeated and I don’t give up easily. Maybe as Richard said, this was just my time to get my ass kicked?