Trip Report -- A Week in Montreal
Traveler - 29 year old American vegetarian Catholic female
Goal - See the sights of Montreal
Transportation - Train to Montreal from US, Metro while in Montreal
Hello, My name is Kathleen, and I visited Montreal on the cheap for a week in December 2003. My trip report includes the highlights of Montreal through my eyes as well as free links and tips on how to get around in this great international city.
Sights:
Biodome/Olympic Parc/Tower
Housed in the former Olympic Velodrome, the Biodome is four natural environments in one. I visited a Tropical Forest, the Laurentian Forest, the St. Lawrence Marine Ecosystem and the Arctic and Antarctic Polar Worlds. I purchased the Biodome and Tower ticket package, and a guided tour headset in English to explain the whole thing to me. The multi-attraction packages are cheaper. I highly recommend the headset, it provided explanations of all the exhibits so I could just wander around and look more than read. Highlights were the Capybara, a dog sized rodent; beavers; penguins; porcupines; frogs; toucans; caymans; the always funny flounder; and an orange monkey. There is also a cafe restaurant.
The tower is 575 feet tall and rises at a 45-degree angle. The ride up is an adventure for those afraid of heights, but the view of Montreal from the top is worth it. It’s nice to be able to find out what all the buildings on the skyline are named, and get a broad overview of the city from a vantage point other than a map. I got there at two pm and was able to do the Biodome and Tower view justice before the place closed at 5 pm. I took the metro to the Viau station (see metro map) and walked past the French theater to the Biodome.
Museums
The Modern Art museum, Metro Place des Arts (see metro map), is open free to the public on Wednesday evenings. I am no modern art fan, so I got what I paid for.
The Musee Des Beaux Arts is at 1380 Sherbrooke St. W. Guy Concordia Metro (see metro map). Open Tu. - Sat. 11 - 5 pm. The basic collections are free. I never made it there, but that’s where they have the famous artists.
Movies
Famous Players 977 St. Catherine St. (McGill Metro, see metro map) is the place for movies in English, and for movies on the big IMAX screen. Ever since I saw those nature films/documentaries on IMAX when I was a kids, I dreamt of one day seeing an action film up there on the big screen. Dreams come true in Montreal, and I saw the Matrix Revolutions at Famous Players. The good thing about this theater is that you can pay for the tickets and the pop and popcorn with your credit/debit card, which lets you keep that Canadian cash from disappearing too fast. If you have had umpteen years of French and you want to see the American movies dubbed in French, head over to the movie theater of of the Viau Metro station. Remember, with Canadian dollars, movies are cheap for tourists on vacation.
Nightlife and Restaurants
Clubbing -- Cresent Street is the obvious choice for the Montreal tourist. Walking down on a weekend night is like being in the middle of a college town. The young people are out on the town, the bouncers are either encouraging people to come in or holding back throngs behind a red rope. I’m used to the social scene starting late, so I was pleasantly surprised to see a busy line in front of La Boom on Crescent Street at midnight on a Saturday. Discriminating females should take the time to walk up and down Crescent on both sides of Catherine to see what the best deal is, often there are cheap or free / no cover ladies’ nights or VIP treatment for us. La Boom had three different rooms in one club for $10, and a cab to the west side of the city was under $10.
Second Cup - If it’s late and you don’t want the club scene and instead prefer a warm liquids and a free window table for people watching, Second Cup is the mass marketed coffee house for you.
Look up on Catherine - If it’s earlier, I’ll let you in on my little secret. It’s called Le Commensal, and it’s a vegetarian buffet restaurant. They’re everywhere, but if it’s like 8 - 9 pm and you have a little room left in your tummy, head on over to the corner of McGill College and Catherine Street, by the McGill metro (see metro map) and the Paramount theater. Above Reubens is Le Commensal restaurant. Grab a plate and sample several desserts from their dessert bar and have a cup of tea and people watch from a table overlooking the street. Tip -They charge by weight, so keep an eye on your plate if you need a cheap meal.
Another good place to do this is Basha’s Lebanese restaurant at 930 Ste-Catherine West, sample from a huge plate of cheap and colorful food and watch the shoppers and locals down on the street below for free.
Casino - The Montreal Casino is a tourist gambler's dream vacation, with slots and tables reataurants and kitch. Playing with the multicolored Canadian "funny money" made it seem more like Monopoly than Vegas. Tip - Be sure to sign up for the free casino card if you are gambling on the slots, Casino Montreal will send you discount tourist coupons for use on your next Montreal vacation. Tip - traffic can get backed up on the weeken nights, there is also bus service.
Food and Restaurants
I made the most of the vacation $ by eating cheap and renting a place with a kitchenette, so I only went out to breakfast once the entire trip. The crepes were superb at a little creperie restaurant on St. Denis street, but better was the free people watching from the window and the French of our fellow patrons.
Poutine -- The best and cheapest Montreal snack is definitely Poutine! LaFleurs restaurant is the best of the bunch, and while most of the restaurants are out of the way, there is one at the corner of Saint-Denis and Carré Saint-Louis, Metro Sherbrooke (see metro map). They also serve soy dogs, as well as regular meat versions of American "dog and burger" fare.
Smoked Meat - I’m a vegetarian, but thet say it’s the best at Schwartz’s, a Jewish deli restaurant at 3895 Saint Laurent, Metro Sherbrooke or Mont Royal. I had the pickles and coleslaw, ask for the half sour pickles. The local canned soda is as good as Dr. Brown’s here in the states (or specifically at better Jewish deli’s in NYC).
Sushi - I got the best service at the Sushi Maki Japanese restaurant at 1240 Crescent street off of St. Catherine. I needed to order only vegetarian food, and also wanted Udon soup. Imagine my delight when I was treated to not only some great udon soup and a salad with the tangy ginger dressing I love, but an order of sushi, all vegetarian and each piece different! I appreciate a restaurant where you can get a better dining experience by letting the chef surprise you than by asking for something you’ve had 100 times before. For under $20 with tip, eating here was well worth the price.
Pizza - Hands down, Pizza Ancora restaurant at the Atwater Market. Not that cheap, but you get to choose your favorite from an interesting and luscious array of artfully crafted pizzas. Eat there and refuel after shopping in the delicious stores at Atwater market or take some home and reheat for the fanciest pizza dinner ever.
Provisions - Atwater Market!! It’s not cheap and a good walk from the Lionel Groulx metro (see metro map), but you can choose a local wine, old fashioned bread, tempting bakery treats, fresh croissants, marvel at the meats, buy organic foods and fresh fruits from the many upscale vendors here. For the official grocery store needs, the Metro grocery store by Metro Cote des Neiges (see metro map) is available, as as drug stores in the inside mall off the Atwater Metro station.