Selecting the proper bit is an important part of getting the most out of your horse. Your horse, itself will let you know which bit it prefers. Sometimes it may take a lot of trial and error to find just the right bit, but it is well worth the effort and your horse will appreciate your concern. I approach the fitting of bits like fitting shoes; they should be fit to the horse, not the horse fit to the bit. Horses are as unique as people and the horse will know what bit is comfortable and fits better in its mouth.
I start my colts in the round pen with a lariat rope around their neck.
As they get more comfortable I make a halter with the lariat, and I ride
in this for several days. I have 3 or 4 bits that I try first: Grandpa's
WW1 mullen mouth pelham, (using the upper
bit rings), a rubber mouth D ring snaffle, a low port kimberwicke,
and a 3 piece french snaffle with the center a copper roller. This is also
a
kimberwicke.
You should always check your horses mouth before fitting bits to see the size of the horses bars and learn how to identify any problems that would affect how the horse may react to any particular bit. You need to be sure that your horse's wolf teeth have been pulled. Some of the horses that we raise prefer a fat mouthpiece as they have thin bars and narrow bits are too severe. However, the young horse that I am working with now did NOT like the fat mouthpieces. He chewed and put his tongue over them both put the 3 piece roller mouth on him and he went to rolling it and paying attention.(I also have a side-pull that a friend sent me. I am gaining respect for it as well.)
I don't use a curb bit for at least a year and many times never. I feel less is more. The Tom Thumb and the Cowboy Snaffle are NOT snaffle bits. They are broken mouth curb bits and, in my opinion, too severe! When you apply pressure to one of these bits the mouthpiece digs into the roof of the mouth.
I also do not believe in long shanked curb bits as I feel that they are self defeating. We have all seen horses dancing and prancing with their heads high and their chins tucked. These horses are reacting to the pain. When they are subjected to this pressure for a period of time they lose the feeling in their mouth, this is when many people go to a more severe bit. (more power, ARGH,ARGH) It is a much better idea to retrain the horses mouth. This is sometimes not very easy, but it can be done if their has been no permanent damage from the bits.
The severity of a curb bit is determined by the ratio between the upper shank, (mouthpiece to bridle attachment) and the lower shank, (mouthpiece to rein rings). A bit with a 5" lower shank and a 1" upper shank is much more severe than a bit with a 5" lower shank and a 2" upper shank. The longer the lower shank gets the more severe the problem becomes. Also the tighter the curb the more severe the bit becomes, I like to be able to get two fingers between the curb and the horse. When my horses are finished they go anywhere with a loose rein with no adverse effects on their gaits. A lot of fox trotters have been trained with gag bits and long shanked curb bits, a recent trend in the history of the fox trotter, but these bits are rejected by proponents of good horsemanship since there are kinder methods of achieving the desired results other than using harsh bits.
The main thing to remember is that fox trotters are horses and good horsemanship works on all horses!
Copyright©2000 Bob Blackwell for the Missouri Fox
trotter News. All rights reserved.