

RANGE
Leopard geckos are found in Iran, Afghanistan, Western India and Pakistan. Most of today's captive bred leopard geckos are descendants of geckos imported from Pakistan. They reside in deserts and arid grasslands. Leopard geckos are nocturnal animals sheltering themselves during the day beneath rocks and in burrows.
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DESCRIPTION
The name Eublepharis Macularis, roughly translates as
Juveniles are generally are banded yellow and dark brown which fades into the spotted pattern as the gecko matures. Today, breeders also have developed the "designer" and leucistic geckos.
SEXING
There is little visible sexual difference between male and female leopard geckos. The male seems to have a broader head and neck than the female and their body is usually somewhat larger. However, looking at the undersides, adult males have a prominent V-shaped row of pre-anal pores while the pre-anal pores of the female are barely noticeable. Adult males also have hemipenile swellings and a wider tail base.
The sex of the leopard gecko seems to be determined by the temperature at incubation.
Eggs incubated between 79-83 are generally female, 84-86 are about half of each sex, and above 87 are usually male.
![]() | ![]() New hatchling, about 1 hour old. |
KEEPING THE LEOPARD GECKO AS A PET
Leopard Geckos are among the easiest of lizards to maintain given the proper conditions. They rarely bite and tame easily. Leopard geckos that are handled regularly, remain relatively calm. However, be careful how you hold the gecko. Never by its tail! Geckos tails break off rather easily as a defense mechanism. They will grow back, but never as nice looking as the original tail.
They are relatively clean animals. The majority will define one area of their tank as the "bathroom" and only use that one area, making it easy to clean.
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HOUSING REQUIREMENTS
Leopard Geckos are easily maintained. An ten gallon aquarium will adequately house a single gecko. A 20 gallon tank will house 1 male with 2 females. Never put two males together as they will fight.
Temperature and Lighting:
Daytime temperature should range between 85 to 90. As with any herp, the gecko needs a warm spot and cooler spot from which to choose. Night temperatures can go into the low 70's.
As leopard geckos are nocturnal, UV lightning is not necessary, however the cage should have a 12 hour day and 12 hour night.
Heat:
Water and Humidity:
The leopard gecko needs only a small dish of fresh water each day. I also use a margarine tub as a hide box. Inside the tub I keep moist vermiculite. This provides the gecko with necessary humidity and aids in the shedding process.
Substrates:
Substrates that have been used with few problems are:
FEEDING
Food Items:
Leopard Geckos are carnivorous. In captivity they eat crickets, kingworms (zophobas), mealworms, waxworms, earthworms, grasshoppers, locusts, and pinkies.
BE WARY of feeding insects from your yard! These insects may be contaminated by pesticides and or herbicides used in the area. Even if you don't use pesticides, someone in the neighborhood might, and therefore the insects may be affected.
It is not advisable to use types of insects you are uncertain of as being safe food. They may be toxic to your gecko. Fireflies caught in the summers are thought to cause death to some reptiles. Recent studies have demonstrated that "the ingestion of fireflies (or "lightning bugs", as they are sometimes called) can kill lizards and, thus, should be considered potentially toxic to all herps." (Adler, 1998)
Supplements:
Food should be supplemented calcium and multivitamins.
Adults should be supplemented every other feeding.
Females should be supplemented at every feeding during the breeding period.
Juveniles should be supplemented at every feeding.
I also keep a small dish of calcium in with my geckos.
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Bibliography
May be ordered through
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REPTILE-related books and more!
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