Filthy Fun with Cyclo-cross

Filthy-Fun with Cyclo-Cross
Part 2: The cyclocross bicycle
by Gabe Konrad
Reprinted from Bicycle Trader Magazine

The anatomy To the uninitiated, a quick glance at a 'cross bike might just seem like a road bike with knobby tires. But on closer inspection there are a myriad of differences. As with all forms of cycling, there are new and old schools of thought and conservative and extreme points of view on the anatomy of a cyclo-cross bike. I'll try to cover both angles.
If you're just experimenting with the sport, the most economical route is to either buy a used 'cross bike, available most commonly in the early summer, or to transform an old road bike. If you're going to go the transformation route, try to find a frame that is slightly smaller than your racing rig and that has slightly slacker geometry. The ultimate would be to find a touring frame that accepts cantilever brakes. If you live in a dry area, sidepulls will do the job. But for outstanding mud clearance and sheer stopping power, cantis are a must. Replace the down-tube shifters with bar-end levers, they're still around if you look long enough and are usually quite inexpensive. Put on an extra layer of bar wrap to soak up the shocks and 28c to 35c inverted tread or knobby tires for traction. Finally, add some MTB pedals with clips and straps and there you have it -- a lightweight machine that can handle most any off-road job.
If you really fall in love with the sport, and you can afford it, a purpose made rig is absolutely the best way to go...

The frame 'Cross frames have more relaxed angles than road bikes, have more top tube clearance, longer chainstays for stability and a higher bottom bracket for obstacle clearance. Increased fork rake for flexibility and a softer ride is also common. Generally you'll want to get a frame that is about a half inch to an inch smaller than you road bike. Several companies, like Alan, Pinarello, Cramerati, Orbit, Vitus, Redline, Botranger, Rock Lobster, Gitane and Torelli, produce 'cross frames, but for a little more you can have a custom fit. Some of the more well known builders include Steelman, Merlin, Marinoni and Ibis, but most road builders will make 'cross frames. The new All Rounder frameset from Rivendell Bicycle Works looks to be a good choice also.

Wheels Strong, uniformly-tensioned 36 spoke wheels are the old stand-by, but 32's cut weight and seem to work just as well. Many companies have purpose-made tubulars, but with the hybrid bike boom, several great clincher choices are now available from the likes of Specialized, Continental, the 700 x 35 Ritchey Alpha Bite, 700 x 38 Tioga Bloodhound, and, my favorite, the Michelin 700 x 28 Hi-Lite Cross. The high-pressure Hi-Lite mimics it's more costly tubular cousins in tread pattern and ride. Tread pattern varies according to race or local conditions. Composite tri-spoke wheels are becoming more and more popular with top Euro-pros in extremely muddy conditions.
Shifters: The quick shifting and easy to use STI/Ergo levers are becoming more popular on the 'cross circuit, but because of their lack of serviceability and inability to survive serious crashes, bar-end shifters are still the classic choice.

Gearing There are as many gearing choices as there are riders. Six speeds are still very popular because the wide spacing between the cogs helps keep down jams due to mud. But using a Crud Claw or similar device with an eight speed cluster works fine. Some 'crossers stick with the time proven single chainring with or without ring guards, but double chainrings are now in the majority. Some common gearing combos are a 39/53 with a 12-26, 42/50 with a 15-28, 42/48 with a 13-26, and straight blocks. If you need a smaller gear, you should be throwing the bike over your shoulder and running. Also, since your pedal strokes are about power in this sport, not spinning at high rpm's, longer cranks are a tremendous help.

Brakes For the reasons stated earlier, cantilever brakes are a must. Some 'crossers prefer to have the left brake lever activate the rear brake so they can have more control over their speed during dismounts. May I suggest a bit of high-technology for your classic 'cross rig -- Stoplight cantilevers by Paul Component Engineering are fantastic.

Pedals The classic 'cross pedal is the French double-sided Lyotard with doubled Christophe clips and Binda straps. But the double-sided SPD's and Look's are also a popular choice. Since you'll be jumping on and off the bike quite a bit, choose the pedal system that you can personally get in and out of easiest.

Handlebars Flat bars just can't compete with the variety of hand position offered by the drop bar. For the added stability of a wider grip and for more leverage, use a flared drop or randonneur-type bar. Using a stem that is slightly shorter than your road bike will help distribute your weight more efficiently during ascents.

Water bottles In racing, waterbottles and cages just don't exist. They get in the way of carrying the bike and the course is usually short enough that you can get water "in the pits." Using a 'cross bike for any other situation, you'll want water. If having a bike custom built, be sure that they will be adding bottle bosses, it's common not to have any on 'cross rigs.
An excellent additional investment is in service-free sealed bottom bracket, hub and headset units. As Chris Kostman says, "trick out you bike usefully... own technostuff actually worth drooling for."

Go to Part 3... The legends teach you skills!

Go back to the NVV Cyclocross Circuit

The anatomy	To the uninitiated, a quick glance at a 'cross bike might just seem like a road bike with knobby tires. But on closer inspection there are a myriad of differences. As with all forms of cycling, there are new and old schools of thought and conservative and extreme points of view on the anatomy of a cyclo-cross bike. I'll try to cover both angles. If you're just experimenting with the sport, the most economical route is to either buy a used 'cross bike, available most commonly in the early summer, or to transform an old road bike. If you're going to go the transformation route, try to find a frame that is slightly smaller than your racing rig and that has slightly slacker geometry. The ultimate would be to find a touring frame that accepts cantilever brakes. If you live in a dry area, sidepulls will do the job. But for outstanding mud clearance and sheer stopping power, cantis are a must. Replace the down-tube shifters with bar-end levers, they're still around if you look long enough and are usually quite inexpensive. Put on an extra layer of bar wrap to soak up the shocks and 28c to 35c inverted tread or knobby tires for traction. Finally, add some MTB pedals with clips and straps and there you have it -- a lightweight machine that can handle most any off-road job. If you really fall in love with the sport, and you can afford it, a purpose made rig is absolutely the best way to go...
The frame	'Cross frames have more relaxed angles than road bikes, have more top tube clearance, longer chainstays for stability and a higher bottom bracket for obstacle clearance. Increased fork rake for flexibility and a softer ride is also common. Generally you'll want to get a frame that is about a half inch to an inch smaller than you road bike. Several companies, like Alan, Pinarello, Cramerati, Orbit, Vitus, Redline, Botranger, Rock Lobster, Gitane and Torelli, produce 'cross frames, but for a little more you can have a custom fit. Some of the more well known builders include Steelman, Merlin, Marinoni and Ibis, but most road builders will make 'cross frames. The new All Rounder frameset from Rivendell Bicycle Works looks to be a good choice also.
Wheels	Strong, uniformly-tensioned 36 spoke wheels are the old stand-by, but 32's cut weight and seem to work just as well. Many companies have purpose-made tubulars, but with the hybrid bike boom, several great clincher choices are now available from the likes of Specialized, Continental, the 700 x 35 Ritchey Alpha Bite, 700 x 38 Tioga Bloodhound, and, my favorite, the Michelin 700 x 28 Hi-Lite Cross. The high-pressure Hi-Lite mimics it's more costly tubular cousins in tread pattern and ride. Tread pattern varies according to race or local conditions. Composite tri-spoke wheels are becoming more and more popular with top Euro-pros in extremely muddy conditions. Shifters: The quick shifting and easy to use STI/Ergo levers are becoming more popular on the 'cross circuit, but because of their lack of serviceability and inability to survive serious crashes, bar-end shifters are still the classic choice.
Gearing	There are as many gearing choices as there are riders. Six speeds are still very popular because the wide spacing between the cogs helps keep down jams due to mud. But using a Crud Claw or similar device with an eight speed cluster works fine. Some 'crossers stick with the time proven single chainring with or without ring guards, but double chainrings are now in the majority. Some common gearing combos are a 39/53 with a 12-26, 42/50 with a 15-28, 42/48 with a 13-26, and straight blocks. If you need a smaller gear, you should be throwing the bike over your shoulder and running. Also, since your pedal strokes are about power in this sport, not spinning at high rpm's, longer cranks are a tremendous help.
Brakes	For the reasons stated earlier, cantilever brakes are a must. Some 'crossers prefer to have the left brake lever activate the rear brake so they can have more control over their speed during dismounts. May I suggest a bit of high-technology for your classic 'cross rig -- Stoplight cantilevers by Paul Component Engineering are fantastic.
Pedals	The classic 'cross pedal is the French double-sided Lyotard with doubled Christophe clips and Binda straps. But the double-sided SPD's and Look's are also a popular choice. Since you'll be jumping on and off the bike quite a bit, choose the pedal system that you can personally get in and out of easiest.
Handlebars	Flat bars just can't compete with the variety of hand position offered by the drop bar. For the added stability of a wider grip and for more leverage, use a flared drop or randonneur-type bar. Using a stem that is slightly shorter than your road bike will help distribute your weight more efficiently during ascents.
Water bottles	In racing, waterbottles and cages just don't exist. They get in the way of carrying the bike and the course is usually short enough that you can get water "in the pits." Using a 'cross bike for any other situation, you'll want water. If having a bike custom built, be sure that they will be adding bottle bosses, it's common not to have any on 'cross rigs. An excellent additional investment is in service-free sealed bottom bracket, hub and headset units. As Chris Kostman says, "trick out you bike usefully... own technostuff actually worth drooling for." Go to Part 3... The legends teach you skills!