Filthy Fun with Cyclo-cross

Filthy-Fun with Cyclo-Cross
Part 3: The legends teach you skills
by Gabe Konrad
Reprinted from Bicycle Trader Magazine

The legends speak! Here are a few tips I dug up from some accomplished 'cross riders and legends...

Dismounts
for obstacles "Cyclo-cross is about bike handling, getting on and off the bike fast, and accelerating back to speed."
-- Don Myrah
"The first skill to master is dismounting. As you approach a barrier, feather your brakes from the hoods to make sure you're not moving too fast as you prepare to dismount. As you move closer, swing your right leg out of the pedal, around the back of the bike, and bring it between your left leg and the frame -- to end up with your left toe butting the heel of your right foot. Just prior to your right foot passing on the inside of your left foot, disengage your left foot and balance it on the pedal. With these two moves complete, bring your right hand back and firmly grab the top tube just for of the saddle."
"At this point, you're ready to step off with your right foot first and begin hurdling. The only remaining concern might be if you're carrying too much speed. This is where it's invaluable to have your left lever operating your rear brake: If you are going to fast, you can feather with your left hand which is still on the left brake hood."
"The basic lift is done by simply lifting the bike with the left hand on the top tube or hood and your right hand on the top tube. As you hurdle the barriers with one or two steps in between each barrier, keep the bike aloft and out of the way of your churning legs."
The shoulder move requires different right hand placement as you approach the barrier. Instead of bringing it back to the top tube, bring it down to grasp the middle of the downtube. This will feel extremely awkward at first, but it's the same move you use as you approach a run-up, so it's a good one to get comfortable with. Now, as you dismount, hoist the bike onto your shoulder and begin hurdling. The advantage to this move is you can hurdle almost like a track athlete because the bike is out of the way of your feet. With triple barriers the norm, this move seems to feel more efficient, especially if there's any running involved between or after the barriers. The disadvantage is the bike has to come from your shoulder to the ground as you prepare to remount."
"I found remounting to be the hardest skill to coach. For most newcomers, the "chock-full-of-nuts" anxiety is strong. But again, as with all of these skills, practice pays off. First, as you come out of the barriers, pick up some speed, place the bike squarely and gingerly on the ground, and try to avoid a bouncing, fatigued motion. With hands on either the hood or tops, lift off your left foot and hop on the bike. Pointers to keep in mind: shoot for getting you chest parallel to the top tube and your head out over the stem; avoid any stutter-stepping with your left foot; and try to straddle onto the seat. The inside of your right thigh should be the first to come in contact with the saddle."
-- Geoff Procter
"Options include hurdling, hopping or bunny hopping. Bunny hopping is simple when you can do it, an defies explanation when you can't. The technique is to lift up the front end of the bike, and whilst the front end is in the air, transfer you weight in that direction, lifting up the rear."
"The high speed approach is one of the most difficult but can save the most time. The time-honoured way to dismount is to approach the obstacle, put your hand on the brakes, swinging your right leg over the saddle. At the same time grab the top tube with your right hand, jump off, take a few steps over the obstacle and jump back on in one smooth movement."
"For low obstacles, the bike should be carried at waist height, but for running up hills or hurdling large objects the bike should be shouldered. Hook you arm through the frame and shoulder under the top tube. Hold onto the front wheel or hook of the drops to stop the wheel swinging in your face. Keeping the weight of the bike back will allow you to stand upright so breathing is not restricted when running."
-- David Ramsden
"The good cyclo-crosser assumes any place is accessible. There is the story of one West Coast fellow who strung rope around his wheels for traction, then rode up through the slush of a mountain road carrying skis that he then mounted for the snowy downhill run on the other side, bicycle slung over his shoulder! Generally speaking, cyclo-cross requires a healthy mixture of skill and humility -- the humility that precedes caution, a caution that precedes a willingness to walk the bicycle. Good nerves help at the racing level, but important for any practitioner are fundamental techniques such as mounting, dismounting, and carrying the bicycle."
-- Laurence Malone

Hills "Hills up, learn whether it is quicker to dismount and run, or to ride. When climbing, strong arms are essential, and you want to keep you weight further back than when climbing on road. This stops the rear wheel losing traction. Hills down, you need nerve. Hold onto the drops for best control over braking. Keep the bike rolling over obstacles, and patience plenty. That's it. Stay balanced or crash."
-- David Ramsden
"When going uphill, the major consideration is maintaining weight over the rear wheel -- where the power is applied. This underlines the importance of the short stem and the seat slid well back on the post."
"Downhills are trickier. One should be keenly aware of the different effects of the front and rear brakes. On any descent, application of the front brake shifts most of the rider's weight to the front end of the bicycle. The front brake is the main stopping brake; it should be used judiciously to avoid any sudden over-the-handlebar acrobatics. The rear brake provides the finesse. European cyclo-cross pros lock the rear brake and fishtail down the steep, muddy slopes."
"Mud and snow exaggerate the rider's weight distribution; sometimes it's better to sit well back on the saddle and let the front wheel "feel" its way. Even with so mundane a nuisance as a pothole or sunken manhole cover, weight should be taken off the front wheel. Tricky lateral movements in exaggerated conditions can only be learned through experience."
-- Laurence Malone

Running "After running up a hill the competitor should not immediately leap into the saddle for the downhill dash while his legs are still trembling, but take a running jump on to the bike -- a few yards can be gained that way, enough perhaps to gain the verdict in a closely-fought race."
-- Robert Oubron
"Cyclo-cross racing often requires you to run with the bike. When shouldering the bike, the hand slips under the down tube and back around to the left side of the bike to grab the butt end of the left handlebar. This allows superior control of the bike; some weight rests on top of the wrist at the down tube, some at the contact point of shoulder and top tube. People sometimes place foam pads to cushion the shoulder, but in time it gets used to the idea anyway. The advantage of this carrying style is vertical and horizontal control of the bike with only one hand, leaving the other hand free to reach for twigs, banisters, or rear jersey pockets."
-- Laurence Malone
"Running is very alien to most cyclists, so start training really gently. Your basic fitness level means you can run faster that your muscles can cope with. Be cautious. If you run hard you will cause muscle damage and won't be able to train for a week. Cyclists often experience knee problems when they start training. Don't run in poor shoes. It is better to spend sixty pounds on proper shoes from a running specialist than spend a month off for knee injuries. Upper body strength is something you are likely to be lacking, and is vital for climbing steep hills and running with the bike. Using a gym with a proper instructor will do wonders. A good instructor will set out a training regime to build the muscles you need. Don't forget regular stretching to maintain suppleness."
-- David Ramsden

Cornering "The best thing you can do when learning is to fall off. All 'cross riders do it, and once you realize a tumble in the mud doesn't hurt, you will be more confident to corner at faster speeds. Take it smoothly and brake on the approach, not when you are in the corner."
-- David Ramsden
All 'crossers have their own unique style. But whether you're planning on racing, commuting the mean streets, or simply playing around, these tips will help you on your way to a style of riding that will carry you through the best and worst of times.
.

Go back to the NVV Cyclocross Circuit

The legends speak!	Here are a few tips I dug up from some accomplished 'cross riders and legends...
Dismounts for obstacles	"Cyclo-cross is about bike handling, getting on and off the bike fast, and accelerating back to speed." -- Don Myrah "The first skill to master is dismounting. As you approach a barrier, feather your brakes from the hoods to make sure you're not moving too fast as you prepare to dismount. As you move closer, swing your right leg out of the pedal, around the back of the bike, and bring it between your left leg and the frame -- to end up with your left toe butting the heel of your right foot. Just prior to your right foot passing on the inside of your left foot, disengage your left foot and balance it on the pedal. With these two moves complete, bring your right hand back and firmly grab the top tube just for of the saddle." "At this point, you're ready to step off with your right foot first and begin hurdling. The only remaining concern might be if you're carrying too much speed. This is where it's invaluable to have your left lever operating your rear brake: If you are going to fast, you can feather with your left hand which is still on the left brake hood." "The basic lift is done by simply lifting the bike with the left hand on the top tube or hood and your right hand on the top tube. As you hurdle the barriers with one or two steps in between each barrier, keep the bike aloft and out of the way of your churning legs." The shoulder move requires different right hand placement as you approach the barrier. Instead of bringing it back to the top tube, bring it down to grasp the middle of the downtube. This will feel extremely awkward at first, but it's the same move you use as you approach a run-up, so it's a good one to get comfortable with. Now, as you dismount, hoist the bike onto your shoulder and begin hurdling. The advantage to this move is you can hurdle almost like a track athlete because the bike is out of the way of your feet. With triple barriers the norm, this move seems to feel more efficient, especially if there's any running involved between or after the barriers. The disadvantage is the bike has to come from your shoulder to the ground as you prepare to remount." "I found remounting to be the hardest skill to coach. For most newcomers, the "chock-full-of-nuts" anxiety is strong. But again, as with all of these skills, practice pays off. First, as you come out of the barriers, pick up some speed, place the bike squarely and gingerly on the ground, and try to avoid a bouncing, fatigued motion. With hands on either the hood or tops, lift off your left foot and hop on the bike. Pointers to keep in mind: shoot for getting you chest parallel to the top tube and your head out over the stem; avoid any stutter-stepping with your left foot; and try to straddle onto the seat. The inside of your right thigh should be the first to come in contact with the saddle." -- Geoff Procter "Options include hurdling, hopping or bunny hopping. Bunny hopping is simple when you can do it, an defies explanation when you can't. The technique is to lift up the front end of the bike, and whilst the front end is in the air, transfer you weight in that direction, lifting up the rear." "The high speed approach is one of the most difficult but can save the most time. The time-honoured way to dismount is to approach the obstacle, put your hand on the brakes, swinging your right leg over the saddle. At the same time grab the top tube with your right hand, jump off, take a few steps over the obstacle and jump back on in one smooth movement." "For low obstacles, the bike should be carried at waist height, but for running up hills or hurdling large objects the bike should be shouldered. Hook you arm through the frame and shoulder under the top tube. Hold onto the front wheel or hook of the drops to stop the wheel swinging in your face. Keeping the weight of the bike back will allow you to stand upright so breathing is not restricted when running." -- David Ramsden "The good cyclo-crosser assumes any place is accessible. There is the story of one West Coast fellow who strung rope around his wheels for traction, then rode up through the slush of a mountain road carrying skis that he then mounted for the snowy downhill run on the other side, bicycle slung over his shoulder! Generally speaking, cyclo-cross requires a healthy mixture of skill and humility -- the humility that precedes caution, a caution that precedes a willingness to walk the bicycle. Good nerves help at the racing level, but important for any practitioner are fundamental techniques such as mounting, dismounting, and carrying the bicycle." -- Laurence Malone
Hills	"Hills up, learn whether it is quicker to dismount and run, or to ride. When climbing, strong arms are essential, and you want to keep you weight further back than when climbing on road. This stops the rear wheel losing traction. Hills down, you need nerve. Hold onto the drops for best control over braking. Keep the bike rolling over obstacles, and patience plenty. That's it. Stay balanced or crash." -- David Ramsden "When going uphill, the major consideration is maintaining weight over the rear wheel -- where the power is applied. This underlines the importance of the short stem and the seat slid well back on the post." "Downhills are trickier. One should be keenly aware of the different effects of the front and rear brakes. On any descent, application of the front brake shifts most of the rider's weight to the front end of the bicycle. The front brake is the main stopping brake; it should be used judiciously to avoid any sudden over-the-handlebar acrobatics. The rear brake provides the finesse. European cyclo-cross pros lock the rear brake and fishtail down the steep, muddy slopes." "Mud and snow exaggerate the rider's weight distribution; sometimes it's better to sit well back on the saddle and let the front wheel "feel" its way. Even with so mundane a nuisance as a pothole or sunken manhole cover, weight should be taken off the front wheel. Tricky lateral movements in exaggerated conditions can only be learned through experience." -- Laurence Malone
Running	"After running up a hill the competitor should not immediately leap into the saddle for the downhill dash while his legs are still trembling, but take a running jump on to the bike -- a few yards can be gained that way, enough perhaps to gain the verdict in a closely-fought race." -- Robert Oubron "Cyclo-cross racing often requires you to run with the bike. When shouldering the bike, the hand slips under the down tube and back around to the left side of the bike to grab the butt end of the left handlebar. This allows superior control of the bike; some weight rests on top of the wrist at the down tube, some at the contact point of shoulder and top tube. People sometimes place foam pads to cushion the shoulder, but in time it gets used to the idea anyway. The advantage of this carrying style is vertical and horizontal control of the bike with only one hand, leaving the other hand free to reach for twigs, banisters, or rear jersey pockets." -- Laurence Malone "Running is very alien to most cyclists, so start training really gently. Your basic fitness level means you can run faster that your muscles can cope with. Be cautious. If you run hard you will cause muscle damage and won't be able to train for a week. Cyclists often experience knee problems when they start training. Don't run in poor shoes. It is better to spend sixty pounds on proper shoes from a running specialist than spend a month off for knee injuries. Upper body strength is something you are likely to be lacking, and is vital for climbing steep hills and running with the bike. Using a gym with a proper instructor will do wonders. A good instructor will set out a training regime to build the muscles you need. Don't forget regular stretching to maintain suppleness." -- David Ramsden
Cornering	"The best thing you can do when learning is to fall off. All 'cross riders do it, and once you realize a tumble in the mud doesn't hurt, you will be more confident to corner at faster speeds. Take it smoothly and brake on the approach, not when you are in the corner." -- David Ramsden All 'crossers have their own unique style. But whether you're planning on racing, commuting the mean streets, or simply playing around, these tips will help you on your way to a style of riding that will carry you through the best and worst of times. .