|
|
|
 Welcome to the Kapusta-Gryczynski Beer (KGB) Brewery, of
St. Charles, Illinois. St.
Charles is a suburb located
about 35 miles west of downtown Chicago. Both Steve Gryczynski and Pete Kapusta have been
brewing jointly for over 5 years, with (mostly) successful results. Both of us are
tinkerers-at-heart, and are continually trying to improve our process, equipment, and most of
all, our beer! We are also members of the Silverado Homebrew Club of Saint Charles, Illinois.
After nearly a year of conceptual design and redesign, brainstorming, and sporadic construction,
our latest incarnation of beer brewing equipment is a 5-tier basement brewery.
Our goal was to consolidate all brewing tasks into a dedicated area of the house. So, we
moved into the basement. Doing so has resulted in simplification of our brew day and
led to more batches in the first quarter of 1999, than we had in the entire past 2 years!
Unfortunately, the brewery was dismantled in the Fall of 2000 to facilitate a
move. The pictures below are from the previous installation. Yes, that sadly
means we haven't brewed in quite some time.
UPDATE
4/9/04: Our new brewing "sculpture" is nearly complete, and expected to be
operational in several weeks. It is a more multi-stage, compact vertical
design. Additionally, the mash tun will utilize a hot water heat exchanger
design for more efficient temperature control. STAY TUNED!
Your comments, suggestions, questions, and impressions are VERY welcome. Please feel free to drop us a note at
PeterKap@aol.com. We'll reply to all emails.
We have added links along the left column of this
page to everything beer-related on eBay. It's free,
so check it out! |
This page contains the following major sections:
|
5-Tier?
 Traditionally, these types of systems are called 3-tier Recirculating Infusion Mash Systems
(RIMS). The tiers generally consist of a Hot Liquor Tank, a combination Mash/Lauter Tun, and a
Boiling Vessel. We dubbed ours a 5-tier because we added a tier for the Counter-Flow Chiller,
and a tier for the actual Primary Fermenter. The entire system is gravity-fed except for the
R.I.M.S./Mash/Lauter Tun portion (more details below).
The rack for the system was built from scratch using 1/8-inch thick, 1-inch x 1-inch Aluminum Alloy 6063 angles (part #88805K48 from McMaster-Carr).
Aluminum's high-strength-to-weight ratio coupled with each machinability and formability make it one of the most versatile, widely
used metals. It possesses its own "anticorrosion system". When exposed to air, almost instantly a microscopic oxide coating forms
on the surface and seals the metal from the environment. Aluminum Alloy 6063 has high corrosion resistance, medium strength, and an attractive natural finish.
|
|
The Hood
|
|
The hood
|
|
|
|
The exhaust vent out the window
|
The hood was constructed from a scrap piece of 1/2-inch thick, 4-foot x 8-foot construction-grade Oriented Strand Board (OSB),
bought at Home Depot for a whopping $1.01 USD. Cuts were made and the pieces were assembled using
MANY 2-inch hinges, also bought at Home Depot. All seams were then double-caulked from both sides using exterior, paintable caulk. Then, multiple coats of
white paint were applied to the entire assembly.
A scrap tubeaxial fan, bought at American Science and Surplus, was installed at the opening in the hood,
along with some ductwork, to direct the flow of air out the window. After initial tests, we
felt that the flow was inadequate and we added another identical tubeaxial fan, also bought at American Science and Surplus, at the point where the
ductwork meets the window opening. In essence, one fan is blowing and one is sucking.
This seems to have done the trick as our digital Nighthawk Carbon Monoxide detector, bought at Home Depot and mounted nearby, rarely
registers anything over 0 ppm during brewing.
|
|
Hot Liquor Tank
 This is our ORIGINAL 5 gallon boiling pot when we first started brewing a number of years ago.
It is economy-grade stainless-steel and was bought at a local Wal-Mart for around $20 USD. It has
served us well. Now, with a newly installed brass ball valve (which originally came on the Mash/Lauter Tun) it has been retired as our Hot Liquor
Tank for sparging.
At the end of the brass ball valve is a 1/2-inch Loc-Line® NPT coolant hose connector (part #10095K33 from McMaster-Carr), which connects
to the Loc-Line® circular coolant hose assembly described in the Mash/Lauter Tun section below.
|
|
Mash/Lauter Tun
|
|
The Mash/Lauter Tun
|
|
|
|
Interior View
|
The Mash/Lauter Tun is an 304-grade, stainless-steel, PolarWare® 10 gallon pot (part #8241T35 from McMaster-Carr).
This pot has welded-on stainless-steel handles, and it came with a stainless-steel perforated false bottom, and a brass ball valve. We removed the ball valve
and replaced it with a multi-port center-inlet ("T") bronze valve with a 1/2-inch female NPT connection (part #4467K23 from McMaster-Carr),
to be able to direct the flow of wort either to the R.I.M.S. or Boiling Vessel when sparging.
To each end of the valve is attached a polypropelene male instant tube fitting with a 1/2-inch male NPT fitting (part #51095K76 from McMaster-Carr). These reusable
one-piece fittings are so easy to assemble, you can do it single-handedly. A one-piece, self-adjusting Delrin sleeve eliminates the need for installation tools and clamps - just slide tubing over stem and pull the sleeve over the tubing. The 360 degree seal won't shift or loosen. To remove, push the sleeve back until you hear a click
and pull tubing off. Dry-seal threads need no taping or sealant.
The other opening in the pot is used as the wort return. On the outside of the pot, we attached another polypropelene male instant tube fitting with a 1/2-inch male NPT fitting.
On the inside of the pot, we attached a 1/2-inch Loc-Line® NPT coolant hose connector (part #10095K33 from McMaster-Carr), which connects
to a Loc-Line® 1/2-inch hose assembly (part #5307K86 from McMaster-Carr). The hose assembly is
then connected to Loc-Line® 1/2-inch circular coolant hose assembly (part #10545K84 from McMaster-Carr). The
circular assembly allows you to completely encircle the area of the grain bed for maximum effect. The 15 nozzles on the assembly can be precisely aimed so as not to disturb the
established grain bed. The Loc-Line® connectors and assembly are chemically resistant, and nonconductive.
|
|
R.I.M.S.
|
|
The R.I.M.S. Assembly
|
|
|
|
Exploded View of The R.I.M.S. Assembly
|
|
|
|
Front View of R.I.M.S. in Action
|
The heart of our system - the Recirculating Infusion Mash System - RIMS.
The components that make up the heating/heat sensing unit are all made of 304-grade stainless-steel
sanitary tube fittings with a 1-inch outside diameter. These fitting meet 3A sanitary standards and are polished smotth inside and
out to eliminate cracks and crevices where contamination-causing bacteria hide. We chose to build it this way, as opposed to soldering
a copper unit together, primarily to ease in sanitation. We utilized the following components:
To 2 of the thermowells that were drilled out, we attached a polypropelene male elbow instant tube fitting with a 1/2-inch male NPT fitting (part #51095K83 from McMaster-Carr). The third is used
to attach the heating element.
The heating element is a custom-ordered, 7-inch long, high-density 1/4-inch diameter, 1000 Watt, 120 Volt cartridge heater (custom-ordered part #35025K1 from McMaster-Carr). We
had the heater custom-ordered with a brazed 1/2-inch NPT male fitting on the end which is screwed into one of the
drilled-out sanitary thermowells. Without shortening heater life, these heaters product higher
watt densities and higher hear output than low-density cartridge heaters. Alloy sheath provides
physical strength and resistance to high-termperatures and corrosion. Heating element is wound
close to sheath and is insulated with magnesium ozide.
The hoses used throughout the system are food-grade clear, 1/20-inch inside diameter, 3/4-inch outside diameter, 1/8-inch wall,
PVC tubing (part #5231K89 from McMaster-Carr). This tubing has a
temperature range up to 180 degrees F., which is fine for a R.I.M.S. system because sparging is at 170 degrees F.. The tubing is nontoxic,
odorless, and tasteless. It has no leachable waxes or stabilizers and may be sterilized by steam. It is also FDA approved.
The wort is pumped through the system by a 1/25 HP March® sealless magnetic-drive pump (part #9925K23 from McMaster-Carr). The connection between the
motor and pump is made through a magnetic coupling. The pump housing and impeller are glass-filled
polypropylene. The O-ring is Buna-N rubber. It is rated for maximum liquid temperatures of 190 degrees F. It is
also rated at 378 GPH at a 5-foot head.
The wort moves from the Mash/Lauter Tun, through the pump,
which pushes the liquid over the heating element, past the temperature sensor in the thermowell, and returns to the
Mash/Lauter Tun.
The temperature sensor is attached to a R.I.M.S. Controller.
|
|
R.I.M.S. Controller
 The R.I.M.S. Controller components are by Johnson-Controls® and are as follows:
The Temperature Controller allows adjustments from +90 degrees F. to +250 degrees F. The Digital Temperature Display allows for a
more accurate setting and reading. The Universal Power Supply supplies 24-Volt power to controls.
The two switches in the photo are for turning on/off the pump and/or heating element separately. This allows for recirculation without
heating, especially when cooling or cleaning the system. The dimmer switch on the right was added after we discovered that our
heating element was a bit too powerful at 1000 Watts. It is used to turn down the Wattage being delivered to the heating element to prevent
the scorching of wort.
|
|
Burner
|
|
The Burner
|
|
|
|
Burner Shield
|
The burner (part #32595K31 from McMaster-Carr) is used to heat the sparge water and boil the wort. It is ported and adjusted for
natural gas. The cast-iron top hot plate is ruggedly built and has a heat output of 14,000 BTU/Hour. It is only a bit more
powerful than a typical kithen burner (which is generally 10,000 BTU/Hour), but being indoors, we were concerned
with potential high carbon monoxide levels.
To increase efficiency of the burner, we enclosed it in galvanized steel. This focuses the heat more
directly on the Boiling Vessel. The
bottom was left open to provide adequate oxygen flow to the burner.
At full power, it brings 5 cold gallons of water to boil within an hour.
|
|
Boiling Vessel
 The boiling vessel is identical to the Mash/Lauter Tun,
a 304-grade, stainless-steel, PolarWare® 10 gallon pot (part #8241T35 from McMaster-Carr).
This pot has welded-on stainless-steel handles, and it came with a brass ball valve. The additional opening in the pot is not cuurently being
utilized, but may eventually house a sight glass.
To the end of the brass ball valve we attached a 3/8-inch, 303 stainless-steel, high-flow male quick disconnect hose coupling plug (part #6543K44 from McMaster-Carr), which
allows easy attachment to the Counter-Flow Chiller.
|
|
Counter-Flow Chiller
 The Counter-Flow Chiller was constructed of 25 feet of 3/8-inch copper tubing in 24 feet of
reinforced garden hose, both bought at Home Depot.
The connectors were made by Phil's Phittings and were purchased at
the
Home Brew Shop.
To the top of the chiller, using a compression fitting, we attached a 3/8-inch, brass, high-flow female quick disconnect hose coupling (part #6537K24 from McMaster-Carr), which
allows easy attachment to the Boiling Vessel.
The entire chiller sits in a plastic bucket for ease of transport and storage. The bucket, temporarily, sits on a chair, but will
eventually sit on a detached stand made of 1/8-inch thick, 1-inch x 1-inch Aluminum Alloy 6063 angles (part #88805K48 from McMaster-Carr) (a Fall '99 project).
The chiller consistently cools 5 gallons of boiling wort to below 70 degress in under 15 minutes with MINIMAL cold water flow.
|
|
Primary Fermenter
 After a mishap with a full 5-gallon glass carboy during "aeration" (dropped while shaking
it), we have switched to a 7-gallon plastic primary fermenter with a lid bought at Home Brew Shop.
Wort aeration is accomplished using an aquarium pump with an installed 3-micron air filter purchased through William's Brewing.
At the end of the air line is a polyurethane fish tank airstone, purchased at a local aquarium store.
Our secondary fermentation is still done using 5-gallon glass carboys.
|
|