What are the oxides and ultramarines made from?

According to the information I've received, the raw materials for the oxides are iron, sulfur and acid while the raw materials for the ultramarines are china clay (kaolin), sulphur and sodium carbonate.

How are oxides produced (in laywoman's terms, of course)?

Again, according to the information I've received, here's the basic manufacturing method for the oxides: Ferrous sulfate is precipitated from the iron/acid mixture and washed with water. The iron oxide is precipitated from this ferrous sulfate, washed with water, dried, ground to a powder, mixed and packaged. The ultramarines, however, are produced by calcining (using high temperatures to convert to a powder) the raw materials. For example, to produce ultramarine blue, the raw materials are ground and then subjected to high temperature baking which results in the production of raw blue. The raw blue is then washed, ground, purified, filter pressed, dried, ground again and then, finally, mixed for color adjustment.

How can these pigments be classified as natural if they have to be "made"? Oxides are natural as they can be mined "as is" from the earth, but they can also be made. I'm confused.

This is how the Food & Drug Administration explained this issue to me: The raw materials, in their natural state, contain harmful contaminates -- such as lead, arsenic and mercury -- and, as such, are not permitted by the FDA for use in cosmetics. Therefore, in order to be classified as "cosmetic-grade" colorants, the raw materials are processed and purified to meet specific standards mandated by the FDA.

We tend to automatically think "natural" means better, but that isn't always true. I believe the FDA says this best in their publication Cosmetic Safety: More Complex Than at First Blush.

"In addition, natural doesn't mean pure or clean or perfect either. According to the cosmetic trade journal Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 'all plants [including those used in cosmetics] can be heavily contaminated with bacteria, and pesticides and chemical fertilizers are widely used to improve crop yields'."

What are the cautions for using oxides on the skin?

The FDA has determined oxides and ultramarines are "safe for external use in coloring cosmetics generally, including cosmetics applied to the area of the eye, in amounts consistent with good manufacturing practice." Remember, the FDA is referring to "cosmetic-grade" colorants that have been produced in accordance with FDA regulations, not artist's pigments or crayons. For more information, please review 21 CFR 73, Subpart C as well as 21 CFR 74, Subpart C.

I can also provide the following pertinent information, which is set forth in the Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for the oxides and ultramarines.

Apparently the danger in working with the pigments comes from inhaling the dust, not application to the skin.

If I use colorants, how do I label my products?

If you are making cosmetic products, you must follow labeling guidelines outlined by the Food & Drug Administration. However, true soap is not considered a cosmetic and, therefore, does not fall under the purview of the FDA. In other words, if you do not make a cosmetic or medical claim, you are not required to label your soap. If you choose to label your soap, I believe you should adhere to the FDA's labeling requirements for cosmetics.

What are the FDA's labeling requirements for cosmetics?

Well, your label must bear the name of the product, the nature or use of the product, the net weight of the product, the name and complete address of your business (if your business is listed in the telephone directory, you can eliminate the street address). However, if the distributor is not the manufacturer or packer, this fact must be stated on the label by the qualifying phrase "Manufactured for . . . " or "Distributed by . . . " or similar, appropriate wording. The label must also include an ingredient declaration, which means the ingredients must be declared in descending order of predominance. Also, color additives and ingredients present at one percent or less may be declared after the ingredients present at concentrations exceeding one percent without regard for predominance. The ingredients must be identified by the names established or adopted by regulations (21 CFR 701.3(c)); those accepted by the FDA as exempt from public disclosure may be stated as "and other ingredients".

One more thing, the wording must also be in English. However, if the label contains any representation in a foreign language, all words, statements, and other information required to appear on the label must also appear on the label in that foreign language.

Cosmetic Labeling guidelines are set forth in the Code of Federal Regulations, Title 21, Part 701 .

Can I use the pigments to color my bath salts?

Yes, you can. In fact, Misty of The Misty Mountain Co., graciously offers her recipe and instructions. Thanks, Misty!

Can I store the leftover mixed up pigment/water solution in jars?

Probably not as I think you'll find the water will begin to evaporate unless you're storing the solution in a tightly sealed container. Even then, I'd be worried "things" might begin to grow in the un-steralized water. I've been advised that most of the water-soluble certified dyes will gain or lose moisture as the relative humidity changes and, for this reason, powdered colorants should be kept in tightly sealed containers.

Titanium dioxide is a pigment which is widely used for its whitening or tinting abilities. I now offer two versions of titanium dioxide -- water dispersible and oil dispersible. The oil-dispersible titanium dioxide may be added directly to your base oils, superfatting oils or even to your raw soap. On the other hand, the water-dispersible titanium dioxide may be added directly to your lye water . . . before you add the lye, of course! How much you use will depend upon what you want to do and what tint you're trying to achieve. If you want to whiten an entire batch, try adding one-half tablespoon of titanium dioxide per pound of oils and add more as needed. If you simply want to tint a portion of your colored soap, experiment by adding a teaspoon (maybe less if you are not trying to achieve a light shade) and add more until you reach your desired shade.

The important thing to remember is that you need to make sure the titanium dioxide is thoroughly -- and I mean thoroughly -- dissolved or you will end up with white spots in your finished soap. This is especially true when working with the oil-dispersible version. You will notice that the oil-dispersible titanium dioxide is somewhat lumpy . . . like powdered sugar. Before adding this pigment to your oils, I recommend running the oil-dispersible titanium dioxide through a sifter or coffee grinder to break up any lumps which will allow for easier mixing. I've also obtained the best results by adding the oil-dispersible titanium dioxide to approximately one cup of my base oils and then ~ using a handblender ~ mixing until the titanium dioxide is thoroughly incorporated into the oil.

By the way, if you're thinking you can scent with Vanilla fragrance oil and add titanium dioxide to achieve white soap, be forewarned. I have attempted this and ended up with a mucky, yucky, light brown soap. However, this doesn't mean it can't be done, just that I wasn't successful in my attempts.

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