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- Blue Guide - Greece Robin Barber Sixth edition 1995 ISBN 0-7136-3250 X
- Blue Guide - Rhodes and the Dodecanese Robin Barber First Edition 1997 ISBN 0-7136-4093-6
- Blue Guide - Istanbul John Freely Fourth Edition June 1997 ISBN 0-7136-4514-8
- Blue Guide - Athens and environs Robin Barber Third Edition 1992 ISBN 0-393-30838-3
- Blue Guide - Crete
- Blue Guide - Turkey
Clifford (Our Fearless Leader) Ashby's Travel Tips (with a few added notes, in italics, by Jerry Bangham)
Luggage and attire. You will be schlepping your own suitcase, so one that is light,, small, and wheeled is desirable. This will go in the baggage bin under the bus, so a large purse or book bag should be kept with you to contain your immediate requirements. I don't foresee any dress-up occasions, so ties, coats, heels, designer dresses and the like can be left in your closet. You will need: a comfortable, well broken-in pair of walking shoes, preferably with tread; slacks, sun hat, one long-sleeved shirt, and a light windbreaker for possibly chilly nights in the Turkish mountains. I prefer slacks on the sites, since some of them can be brushy. Rain is unlikely, but with global climate changes, who knows? I pack a plastic poncho which takes up almost no space. Need I suggest a bathing suit?
Travel light. Since you will be responsible for carting your belongings, take as little as possible, leaving some room in your suitcase for purchases made along the way. Realize that if you bring seven outfits, your companions will have seen your complete wardrobe at the end of the first week-and of course everyone else will only see you once or twice. In a few days, you'll be coming to at breakfast in the same blue shorts and faded T-shirt that you were wearing yesterday.
Washing. In these semiarid regions, almost everything dries overnight.
Cotton is a good choice; I'm trying some of Burlington Mills' new "M.C.S. Sunblocker, the fabric that absorbs, moves moisture away from the body, and dries quickly." You'll need to do your washing and bathing in the afternoon or early evening; hot water comes from solar heaters, so morning showers can be chilly.
Electricity. All power, except for occasional high-class hotels, is 220 volt. You will need a plug adapter and converter to operate your hair dryer or tooth brush. 220 volt appliances are available in some travel stores. An adapter will let you plug your device into an outlet. A few appliances will automatically realize that they are on 220, rather than 110 and adjust. Others have a switch that you must set. Most American appliances will just burn or melt and won't be much good afterwards. I wouldn't mention this if I hadn't been on trips where this happened. Converters will do the job (although one that works for a hair drier may not work for a laptop). They can be bulky and heavy, though, so be sure you really need the appliance.
Cameras and film. Have your camera checked before you leave, and be sure to install fresh batteries. A wide angle lens is almost necessary to get as much theatre as you want into a shot, since there is seldom room to back up for a comprehensive view. Bring about twice the film you think you will need, and pack it in lead sacks to protect against airport x-rays. I will provide printed signs for each site; if you take a picture of the sign before shooting, you will have no trouble identifying one theatre from another.
Computers and recorders. I will probably bring a laptop and attempt to use it for e-mail; I'll be glad to share it with you if you don't care to bring one of your own. A little battery operated tape recorder is wonderful for taking field notes; you can wait until Christmas vacation to transcribe them.
Passports. If you need a renewal or are applying for the first time, better get to it; I'll need your passport numbers for forms that must be filled out. Renewals can be handled by mail, and forms are available on the net: http://travel.state.gov/download_applications.html.
Food. Diet tends to be both interesting and delicious-if you are a little adventurous. There is a temptation to overeat, especially in Turkey where three meals are provided. Turista, in my experience, usually comes from cream sauces kept too long in upscale establishments; I've never had any problems with food from hole-in-the-wall tavernas. Water has never been a problem in the past, but bottled water is available if you prefer. Tips are included on the bill, but waiters in the more touristy places may try for more. Ouzo and raki are the anise-flavored aperitifs in Greece and Turkey; wines are very good, and so is the beer. No one looks kindly at American drug habits; have you seen Midnight Express?
Medicines. Of course bring adequate supplies of whatever you are taking, and probably an emergency stash also. If you are contemplating digestive problems, Immodium works well. You may find that hours of sitting on the bus leads to the opposite condition; bring Metamucil or similar bulk producer. Of course you will bring sun screen, and a bottle of Deet may be useful for mosquitoes around Turkish lakes. The few doctors I have encountered seem quite competent; those who deal with tourists speak English and are trained in Europe's finest schools. If you are subject to problems that might arise, I would appreciate your sharing them with me-in confidence, of course.
IRS. I'm sure all of you realize that this trip qualifies as a business expense, except for the poor students. I'm reasonably sure that nonprofessional wives are also deductible.
Drachmas. I'm assuming that the Athens airport, like all other airports, has at least one money machine in the lobby. Bring your VISA or other card, stick it in the slot (with PIN), and coin of the realm will come spewing out. This is the most convenient way to exchange money, and by far the cheapest. I've read that some American banks and credit cards use more than four numbers in their PIN (all of mine use 4). European ATMs will only deal with four numbers. It might be good to check your PIN.
To conclude: That is all my words of wisdom for the moment. You all are seasoned travelers who can certainly add further and undoubtedly better advice than this. If you will send your comments and suggestions to me, I'll be glad to put them on line (or send them to me and I'll add them here). When everyone's travel plans are final, I'll send a comprehensive list of who is flying when and on what. Some of you will be on the same plane, or perhaps arriving in Athens at about the same time as others.
Some additions (2/7/99): Bill Orth and Phil Hill have been told by local health departments that they need shots for hepatitis A and typhoid, plus tetanus-diphteria and polio boosters. I have checked with both Greek and Turkish agents, and they were both more than a little indignant that their countries would be so defamed. The head of the Turkish organization is currently in New York where his wife is undergoing heart surgery; neither he nor the Turkish embassy in Washington know anything about an advisory from CDC. However, both he and the Turks in Turkey think bottled water is a reasonable precaution. I have no advice to offer, other than to find out all you can and use your best judgment. The shots are a little expensive, but they would leave you on the safe side. A typhoid shot some years ago before a trip to Peru left me with an evening of utter, nearly suicidal, depression, but that quickly passed. A tetanus booster is probably a good idea for anyone at any time. Please let me know if you learn anything further.
Phil also learned of a visa requirement to Turkey. This is news to me, but it seems to be true. Apparently, the U.S. has slapped a $45 visa charge on tourists, so the Turkish government has done the same for Americans. We can handle this when we land at Bodrum (no reason to go to the trouble of sending your passports to Washington for stamping) and I'm assured it will go very fast. I'll let you know what kind of currency we will need for these visas (Update 2/23/99 - just add $50 to the trip payment and it can be paid to the travel agency in advance).
Phil asked if bathrooms were adjoining, and I'm certain they are; no trips up and down the hallway. (My memory is that we hit one place with the bath down the hall on the last trip to Turkey). I take a sarong for lounging; you may prefer a robe, but you won't need one for out-of-room dashes. (A small flashlight might not be a bad idea, although I've never experienced a power failure.) (Again, I remember a power failure in Turkey. It was in the morning so light wasn't a problem, but it knocked the water off).
Phil also regards travelers' cheques as a "rip-off even if they are purchased for no fee, as the redemption and exchange rates are exorbitant."
Write if you know something I don't.
Update (2/11/99) Robert Bridges (you will meet him) from the American School of Classical Studies writes the following about inoculations. (I'm excerpting)
"Everyone seems to be getting more and more antsy about this. . . .We're now requiring all new members to have Measles #1, Measles #2, Mumps, Rubella, Tetanus/Diphtheria, and recommending that they get Meningitis, Polio Booster, Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B#1, Hepatitis B#2, Hepatitis B#3 as well as a complete physical exam. I've NEVER had ANY of these shots (except polio and tetanus/diphtheria and that was YEARS ago - and I realize I should get those updated). The cause for this panic is two isolated cases of meningitis last summer which threw the assembled powers-that-be into conniptions. . . . The typhoid/hepatitis recommendations are probably a good idea if you're going to be spending any summer time in Istanbul or Izmir and think that folk won't have the sense to use bottled water (the rest of Turkey is fine, but those two places have to truck their water in during the summer, and even my decades-long accumulation of local intestinal flora still leaves me a tad wary during the heat of the summer." ·
That's about as near the horse's mouth as I can get on this situation. You realize, of course, that the American School people are going into back country situations with very primitive conditions, while you loll about in pampered luxury. Take your shots if you think it wise, but there seems to be no great cause for worry.
Added notes (5/8/99) Women should throw in a head scarf for the increasingly fundamentalist Turkey. Podiatric hint: I've found that keeping toenails short is very helpful.
More travel tips
Pattie Lusk
1. Wear jeans that are soft and comfy, preferably old and "broken in." Many of the sites can be brushy and rocky.
2. If you are getting new tennies or sneakers, start breaking them in NOW! Preferably, wear old sturdy shoes.
3. Buy "moleskin" and/or "molefoam" (Dr. Scholl's) as a blister deterrent. Get a small pair of scissors and carry both each day.
4. Avoid nylon (or even nylon mixed) clothes; make you sweat. Cotton underpants are highly desirable.
5. Pack light. Everything dries overnight except thick socks.
6. Start saving your plastic grocery vegetable bags. They are great for packing.
7. Bring a washcloth if you use one. No one else in the world seems to use these except Brits and Americans. Maybe a spare towel.
8. Bring NO valuables. If you leave everything behind in a hotel room (or God forbid your suitcase is looked into somewhere) let it be of dimestore quality that you can let go and not cry over.
9. Bring hand lotion. Air is very dry and we are going to hot dry rocky areas. If you run out of hair conditioner, a bit of hand lotion is a splendid substitute.
10. Buy a bottle of ordinary sink dishwashing detergent (like Ivory) to wash your clothes with. Lasts the whole trip. Or use a ziplock bag for washing powder. I don't do this; it always breaks. Suit yourself.
11. Start collecting toilet paper rolls that are close to the end, or carry Kleenex from a box in a plastic bag. Be warned; you will need to carry this especially for Delos, in order to duck behind a ruin somewhere to take care of your needs. Carry it every day. Accept the challenge.
12. Be sure to get Lomotil or its equivalent and any antacid or medication you need to last the distance. Wash your hands before eating; easiest way to keep a lot of problems at bay.
13. Sun block is absolutely essential. No one gets off the bus without applying it. Take a spare pair of reading glasses, just in case.
14. Develop the habit of showering as soon as you get to your room at the end of the day. Lots of places we will be staying have solar heating for the water tank; this means it is lukewarm at 11 p.m. and stone cold at 7 a.m. Shaving is for you to work out. All you men can go through the early Don Johnson phase to a full beard.
15. Wear a hat. This is a must. Get one that has a brim and folds into your suitcase.
16. Pack everything you plan to take ahead of time and then test it out carrying it for weight. Keep it small. Keep it light. No bell hop will be available, only you. ONE SUITCASE.
Peter Coulson
One thing that several doctors have recommended and I have found very helpful is to take four Pepto-Bismol tablets during the course of each day, continuing for several days after one returns home. Of course, this will not prevent real dysentery, but it is a great help in preventing minor stomach upset from food and drink that one is not used to. As you may know, it does darken one's tongue, but I feel that is a small price to pay. I did this in China and elsewhere, places where I had some very strange (to me) food, and had no problems. Naturally, I was also careful about the water and all that.
(4/5/99) Probably most of us are already familiar with this advice, but for what it is worth, I quote part of a recent advice column in the Austin newspaper: "Sandy McDonough of Austin Diagnostic Center's Travel Clinic says a little common sense goes a long way: Get adequate rest before traveling, reduce smoking and avoid alcohol and caffeine, carry healthy snacks and avoid heavy meals, increase fluid intake (eight ounces per hour during flight), exercise (in-seat flexes, walking around), sleep as much as possible on the plane (request pillow and blankets and bring ear plugs and eye cover), shower or wash hands and face at stops."
"So skip the free champagne, grab some shut-eye and drink water like a fish. McDonough adds sleeping pills are not recommended, as they interrupt normal sleep patterns. Upon arrival, do not immediately sleep. Get some sunshine if possible."
Personally, I find it hard to resist the food and a little wine on international flights, but I'll try to "drink water like a fish" and get what sleep I can. Peter
Several doctors have recommended taking four Pepto-Bismol tablets during the course of each day, continuing for several days after one returns from the trip. Of course, this will not prevent real dysentery, but I have found it to be a great help in preventing minor stomach upset from strange food and drink. As you may know, it does temporarily darken the tongue, but I feel that is a minor price to pay. I had plenty of strange (to me) food in China in 1984, and elsewhere, with no bad effects. I do rely on bottled water in most countries except the British Isles and Germany (where I was stationed in the mid-fifties). So, for what it is worth.
Patrick Donnelly (updated 5/23/99)
I travel very lightly. Have hoards of tips if folks want them. I am not as hip to the history as ya'll, but I know from wandeltrekking.
Trekking in Europe. You need three bags. Large, small, and tiny.
The Large bag contains everything you need for your trip, which is considerably less than you imagine.
The Small bag is for everything will you need for a day. Which will vary according to circumstance.
The Tiny bag is your passport, emergency cash and numbers; you should be able to tuck the tiny bag deeply amongst your person. And sleep comfortably. Security wallets come in all shapes and sizes, get one and get used to wearing it.
Without your passport you are no one. For at least 24 hours. Usually longer if you lost your money too.
Europe has few violent robbers, but we do have a highly skilled population of pickpockets and cutpurses. Gypsies are never cute or safe to be near. The market for passports is very good, an American Passport is worth about $10,000 (ten thousand dollars) to somebody getting out of eastern Europe or the middle east.
Large bag. How to pack for a week.
Light, small and recyclable.
Forget anything electric. Adaptors-Smadaptors. The stuff is heavy, and takes up space.
Small sealable ¾ full bottles of any liquids. Never full bottles, never more than a enough for a few days or a week.
Two cameras. One for good pictures, one that will take a fast picture of anything.
Film, bags, accessories. Get a deep storage film bag, a real one.
Toiletry bags. Be as self contained as possible. Tiny everything if you need it at all. Small and hangable. It is not unreasonable to chop off part of the handle of your toothbrush to save weight and space. One of the viscose camp towels from Bean's or Boundary Waters catalogs will work for everything but lying on at the beach.
Dr. Bronner's soap is the best. And the label is the most entertaining last ditch, late night reading of any soap on the market. You can wash anything in Dr. Bronner's soaps.
Reading material is heavy, but make sure you do not run out. Books in English cost double or more what they cost in the USA. A good book is worth a couple bottles of good wine.
I personally recommend everyone have a Swiss army knife (with a scissors and corkscrew); a mini-mag flashlight; a compass (with some vague idea of why a reference to North is handy); a cup (for everything from brushing your teeth to the nightly snort of Ouzo): and some means of transporting water. Bottle water (liter size) is everywhere, use it every time and give up on the notion of ice. Always bottled water in southern Europe or the Med.
Wine is often cheaper than water, but you don't want to brush your teeth with it.
Clothing should be as light, functional and recyclable as possible. Cotton washes and dries fast. Comfortable, layerable, durable. Greece is laid back, you do not need watches. It is either light or dark. Get used to the sight of skinny cats.
You need one warm, dry, outfit, which should be a layering of just about everything you have. Peel down from there into a couple wardrobes. Shorts are not permitted in many churches, and looked upon unfavorably in all.
You need a hat. Americans all wear baseball caps. Buying a good hat locally is okay, but you don't want to wear you Greek hat in Turkey.
You will want good broken-in shoes, and need them. Then you will be embarrassed by the Germans who will come walking by in sandals and loafers. Pay no attention, the Germans are big league walkers and tourists. Don't let them get to you, and don't think you can keep up. Never drink with Germans if you have anything to do for the next couple days. Your shoes should be big, thick, vibram-like soles on anything that does not give you blisters. Good socks and shoes are a must. Shoes you can trust.
If the early itinerary has time, Buy Birkenstocks here. Do not bring sandals unless you already have Birkenstocks.
The money and the Bank cards you already know about. Using your regular ATM bank card is THE BEST way to get money from there to here. Check the back of your ATM cards for words like: Cirrus, Interlink, Plus....from the ATM here, right out of your checking account there, is the best/cheapest way to obtain local cash.
Know your PIN Number, not a password. No letters-on-the-numbers on phones and bank machines! And it is withdrawal from Checking only, no other transactions.
Visa and MC are widely accepted. AMEX is the best.
Travelers Checks are a handy back up. Carry some.
Cash is cash. American dollars are very handy. Large bills you must exchange, but a stack one $1 bills make excellent informal grease. You tip a lot here. Not very much at any one time, but a little. Restaurant bills always include the tip, no matter what the waiter says. And few Europeans tip more than a dollar for anything. The bathroom (WC) is usually fifty American cents- in local currency..
Pack three bags.
Bag 1. Is your life. Without bag #1 you are an Unperson. It should contain your passport, plane ticket, emergency numbers and a little cash. Bag#1 should become part of your close person.
Bag 2. The day bag. Gets packed and repacked for the demands of the day. This should become an appendage. Everything you need for 1 day, or 1 flight, you get the picture. This should be a comfortable, easy-on, easy-off, bag. Underseat, Over Shoulder, A respectable pillow.
Bag 3. The supply wagon. Should Roll, and YOU should be able to "sling" it into a car trunk or luggage cart, or wrestle it away from the guy who is trying to put it in his car trunk. Pack lightly, with versatile and recyclable clothes. This bag should be lockable. All of it.
Packing procedure: (strictly optional) Pack the bags. Rest. Unpack them and take some stuff out. Pack. Rest. Carry/Roll the bags around the house. (Greece has stairs) Unpack bags and lighten load. Recap, load to roll properly. Set bags aside for a couple days. Try to remember all the stuff you forgot to pack in the bags, assemble it, open bags and put that stuff inside. Carry bags around house. Practice rolling bag, recap to roll properly. Practice rolling Bag#3 with bag #2 stacked on top. Unpack bags, lighten load.
Final pack, strap down, pack bag#2 for the flight (BRING BOOK), Pack Bag#1. Become One with Bag#1. And remember to always count to three. Large Bag for the trip. Wheels, handles, a backpack. Light as you can.
Small bag for the day. Daily needs, rolling stock and essentials.
Tiny bag for always. It contains 10,000 dollars, and is the only identity you have. A Drivers License proves you can drive, not who you are.
I sure am looking forward to our excursion. Greece is only about four hours from here (The Netherlands) by air, but you guys will be jet-lagged wrecks when we see each other for the first time. Nana-nana-boo-boo.
Expect no mercy.
More tips (2/10/99)
Hmmm. Nice and upbeat travel tips. Half the clothes and twice the money.
Don't bring a full-full bag. You need room for loot. If you bring too much, you have to dump it to make room for the stuff you get here.
Don't wear sunglasses in the mornings for the first few days (for jetlag). Bring one crate of Wash-and-Drys. Sell them to people as you travel together. Give them away when people start to smell bad.
Get used to the sight of skinny cats. No, you may not have one on the bus. Practice sightseeing. Go someplace.
Walk around for a couple hours, carrying your day bag. Full. Do not mind the weather.
You cannot drink enough water. The air on the plane will be dry-dry-dry, for hours. It will dehydrate you as quickly as desert air. Much travelers malaise is from lack of water, not bad water. Drink before, during, and after the flight.
Ask your doctor for drugs (according to your own guidelines). Doctors have lots of neat little relaxers. A very long plane ride is an extremely good reason to take one. Most doctors have a favorite. Over-the-counter stuff is for fluffy bunnies. Tell the doctor that you are flying, and usually they know just what you need.
The flights are often crowded, and unless you pay through the nose: tightly packed. You do not want to be awake. When you request seats from the airline: get them near the galley, not the restrooms. Trust me. Be really nice to the airline person who handles this for you.
Ask to sit on the left side window on the way to Europe, and the right side on the to the USA. The view is better, especially when you can see Greenland and Iceland. If you can get "bulkhead" or "emergency door" seats you get extra leg room, but you need extra blankets for your feet next the door. It gets really cold.
Secret possible tip: I always make a joke about asking for a plane or compartment with no children. The ticket agents laugh, and tell you there is No Way. I think they must say that. However, in many big planes, there is often a compartment that is mysteriously free of, or low on, children. In most KLM 747's it is often Rows 12-19, in coach. It is a small compartment next to the forward galley. I think they keep the kids away from the Business Class, up front.
Allow me to explain. I really do not like children, and was never a child myself. Having the middle seat in a 5-wide row, in tourist class, with "under-7's" on both sides, will do it for anyone. You cannot blame the kids, but a deep seething hatred for the parents can be unavoidable.
This is another situation where drugs from the doctor can be a lifesaver.
Have a good flight!
(Clifford's comment) I would differ with him about seat choice. Sylvia and I always get aisle seats across from each other; gives more freedom to move around, and easier access to the bathroom. But you've got to watch out for the food cart. Patrick avers that he bears permanent scars from an encounter with a food cart on Aereo Mexicana.
Bill OrthMy travel doctor strongly endorsed Peter's Pepto remedy against dysentery; she said there are studies that indicate it reduces the chances you'll get TD by 65%. She also recommended carrying some powdered Gatorade in case you do get dysentery. It's important that you rehydrate yourself; you mix the Gatorade with bottled water and it resupplies the lost electrolytes, or whatever.
According to Clifford, no one on previous trips have had any trouble with dysentery. I've been all over the world and spent lots of time in Mexico without ever having a bad case (knock heavily on wood). I guess you can get dysentery anywhere (a travel agent told me the only time she got it was in Switzerland, of all countries) but I wouldn't spend a lot of time worrying. I do plan to stick in some Lomotil, just to be safe. Note my tip later on about waterless hand cleaner.
Some odds and ends
Most showers in Greece and Turkey have a bit of string descending from a porcelain fixture in the ceiling. It took me quite a while to figure out the purpose of this cord. At first I just thought it was a nonfunctioning light switch, but since there were rarely light fixtures nearby, I finally ruled this out.
It is an alarm, in case you slip and fall. A really practical idea. A couple of problems, however. First, the string usually gets shortened, so you have to be standing up in order to pull it, which kind of defeats the whole purpose of the alarm.
Also, while I was trying to future our what the cord did, I managed to pull cords in several hotels. Nothing happened. Finally, one day, the phone rang after I'd pulled the cord. While the person on the phone didn't speak English, I somehow managed to connect the cord with the ringing phone and quit experimenting.
Incidentally, I've since seen identical fixtures in English bathrooms, but there, they do serve as light switches.
The Mining Company Greek tourism site has just published a list of good packing tips.
They point out one thing that I didn't realize, airlines flying inside of Greece have stricter baggage limits than international carriers and enjoy sticking on heavy fees for excess baggage.
A call to Olympic Air gives the following information: Baggage limit, 15 kilos or 33 pounds; carryon 18 pounds. Whether these are enforced or whether the information is terribly accurate, I can't say. I'd call Olympic and see if you get the same answer. We'll be flying Olympic to Santorini, and from Iraklio to Rhodos.
Another tip, bring some waterless hand cleaner. It evidently can really cut the chances of picking up intestinal bugs. REI has it in nice pocket-size bottles, but I've seen it in groceries and drug stores.
There is a site Do's and Taboos for Greece. Nothing of vital importance, but keep in mind that a head nod means "no" and a head tilt means "yes." Also, "no" in Greek sounds rather like "OK." The official mantra for the last trip was "Ohi problima" which the bus driver assured us meant "no problem."
Money: Consumer Reports suggests that you will get the best break on exchange rates by using credit cards. Most credit card companies have raised their rates recently. You should check to see which company gives you the best deal.
My preference for obtaining money abroad is the American Express cash machine. Unfortunately, we will only be seeing one on our entire trip. It is located across from Customs in the Athens Airport.
Fortunately, there are banks that take the AmEx card, the Credit Bank in Greece and AkMatic ATMs in Turkey. The logos are shown below.
I assume that I'll probably have to use my MasterCard as well. There is a Website where you can go to see where MasterCards and Visa will be accepted in Greece (about 250 places just in Athens) and Turkey. Look for the Cirrus Network logo, which should be on your credit card..
The current rate of exchange for the Drachma is 300 per dollar. One million Turkish Lira are worth about $2.50
Communications: Here is information on some Internet cafes - this is just off the web, I have no idea how good any are, but I intend to check out some on the trip. For a more complete list, check the Greece for Visitors list of sites and The Internet Cafes of Greece page (which may not be very up to date).
Athens - Carousel Cyber Cafe (I never was able to find this - when I get a chance, I'll post one I did find).
Rhodos - RockStyle internet cafe
Click here for a list of Cyber Cafes in Turkey (most sites are in Turkish and there quite a few dead links)
Kusadasi - Red and White Steak House
Istanbul - Yagmir Cyber Cafe (has a site in English - they are in the same district as our hotel)
The Blue Guide
Clifford has sent out a recommendation of the Blue Guide series. I remember that it was on Clifford's 1987 trip that I first heard of the series. I couldn't find them for that trip, but I have since amassed a whole shelf full.
The Blue Guides are published in England by A&C Black and distributed in the USA by WW Norton. I haven't tried it, but it is possible to order from the Norton Website.
I have the following volumes:
Also: (The Athens and Turkey guides appear to be out of print - you can order the Crete guide from Norton or get it a lot cheaper at one of the online bookstores)
Eyewitness Travel Guides
- Greece - Athens and the Mainland First American Edition 1997 ISBN 0-7894-1452-X
- The Greek Islands First American Edition 1997 ISBN 0-7894-1453-8
- Istanbul First American Edition 1998 ISBN-0-7894-2751-6
While the Blue Guide series has good maps, museum plans and a limited assortment of black & white photos, its greatest value is its text. The Dorling Kindersley Eyewitness Travel Guides are just the opposite, dazzling visual presentations with 3D pictorial maps and street guides and hundreds of color photos. The books are not only expensive but really heavy (it must be the slick paper for the photos). Still, they are impressive.
D K Publishing has a Website but it is in England. The books are fairly easy to find online or in local bookshops. I notice that they also have guides to Classical Greece and Classical Rome, but I haven't seen these volumes. They may be written for children.
The volumes relevant to our trip are:
Of course, there are lots of other fine books. If there are other suggestions let me know.
Athens tipsThe Mining Company has a good set of Athens links and a page of Practical Information that includes information on Bus Services. The bus page points out that that there are direct busses from the Airport to Syntagma Square (Plateia Sindadgmatos on the map). However, the bus stops a very long way from the hotel - a most unpleasant walk!. The bus should cost about $2.00, a cab should cost you ten dollars (in Greek drachmas).
All streetcars terminate here, so, if you are lost, just jump on a streetcar and you will either end up here or at the other end of the line (in which case you catch the next car going in the opposite direction).
Our Hotel was the Achilleas Hotel, 21 Lekka Street. I've highlighted the street (Leka St. on the map) in blue. It is to the north west of the square.
Istanbul info.
We stayed at the Madison Hotel in the Beyoglu District near Taksim Square (Receppasa Cad. No: 23, 80090 Taksim, Istanbul). The street is highlighted (Recep Pasa) on the map on the left below. The airport bus is a fairly short walk from the hotel (in front of Pizza Hut).
The map on the right shows where Taksim Square (the red dot) is. It is north of the Golden Horn in the international section of the city.
Our travel arrangements will be handled by VIP Tourism. They have a Website with pictures of distinguished clients like Mick Jagger and Michael Jackson. They also have some travel tips and other information.
Istanbul Bookstores: There are two areas to look at. One is the bookseller's market at Beyazit; this is mind-bogglingly chaotic, particularly the second-hand shops, and mainly good for Turkish-language material. The other is in the Pera/Beyoglu area from the Tunel to Taksim Square; there are a few places here that sell foreign-language books, and one small shop in a square near the Tunel has the only secondhand shop in town that sells English and French language stuff (the square it's in will make any cat lover go all wobbly, there are dozens of lovely fluffy moggies outside). There are also bookshops attached to publishers all over the city (though predominantly in Sultanahmet as that's where the publishers themselves congregate). But for general tourist guides and informative material about Turkey in any language you probably can't beat the shop beside the Blue Mosque.
(This tip from http://www.geocities.com/Athens/4824/bookshop.htm)Some assorted links of interest
