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Improving and Modifying the
Steering for an IH Cub Cadet
Last update: 5/30/08
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When building a garden tractor for pulling, it's best to remove and disassemble everything. Clean and inspect all the parts for wear, especially the steering parts. This is one area a lot of people overlook. Steering is very important and should never be neglected. Loose or worn steering parts can be dangerous. A puller may just tighten the steering box adjustments, inspect the tie rod ends and that's it. But there's more to it than just making adjustments...
Replace that worn, cracked (and not to mention boring)
OEM steering wheel with a beautiful, automotive-style, small diameter
(10" or 12") custom steering wheel! They improve the overall appearance of
the whole tractor and are available at most auto parts supply stores and
on eBay. To install a custom, automotive-style steering wheel on a Cub Cadet
or virtually any garden tractor...
-
To remove the steering wheel from a Cub Cadet or virtually
any garden tractor, install the retaining nut 90% on the threads of the steering
shaft and give the nut a short blast with an air chisel. If that won't work,
use a bearing separator with a steering wheel puller or an automotive harmonic
balancer/vibration damper puller tool, and if you want to save the old steering
wheel, make sure the jaws of a gear puller won't break or crack the plastic.
You may have to heat the splined hub to get it off the shaft. Be careful
not to damage the shaft!
DO NOT HAMMER ON THE SHAFT TO REMOVE THE STEERING
WHEEL! This could cause the internal threads in the lower part of the
aluminum steering box to split (crack the case) or the box might break later,
which could be very dangerous in pulling because the tractor could go out
of control.
- Acquire an automotive custom steering wheel installation adapter kit that's available from virtually any automotive parts supply store. The only steering wheel hub adapter I found that fits close on a Cub Cadet steering shaft is made for most General Motors cars and trucks from 1949 to 1994 without telescopic steering. The GM adapter has the correct diameter, but the splines are not a perfect fit, so it will need to be lightly tapped onto the Cub Cadet shaft. Or, the center [splined] hub from an old GM steering wheel can also be used on a Cub Cadet. But the three small holes in the hub will need to be enlarged and tapped for a 1/4" bolt for installation of a custom steering wheel. Or if you don't want to use the GM adapter, the splined hub from an old Cub Cadet steering wheel with a large flat washer welded to it can be used.
- Fasten the steering wheel to the washer or adapter, but first make sure that the front tires are pointing forward and the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position.
- Install some stainless steel acorn nuts as fasteners for a nice, clean (rust-proof) and professional look.
- Or, instead of installing acorn nuts, install a chrome-plated horn button. To do so, machine a large flat washer in the metal lathe so it'll be slightly larger than the inside diameter of the horn button. Fasten the washer in the steering wheel with a couple of stacked smaller flat washers under the large washer. Snap the horn button onto the washer and that's it!
How To Fix Loose or "Sloppy" Steering Parts -
To improve the steering on an IH Cub Cadet, is to remove, disassemble, clean, inspect, repair as necessary, reassemble, adjust, then lubricate the steering box unit through the grease fitting. By the way - adjustments are made much easier with the unit out of the tractor.
Don't Be A Slob When Rebuilding A Steering Unit!
Always be professional whenever you build or rebuild anything! Before reassembling a steering unit, always take the time to provide a neat and absolutely clean work environment. Make sure that your tools, shop towels, steering parts and hands are clean, too. Don't allow any dust or dirt to enter the work bench or table, including the steering box and it's parts. If necessary, place the parts on a large, clean cloth or cardboard to keep them clean and organized until they're ready to be installed. The reason everything should be kept as clean as possible is because even the smallest bit of dirt inside a steering box will "grind away" at the internal parts, causing unnecessary wear.
How to remove the steering box/column unit from the tractor -
- Disconnect the battery.
- Remove the steering wheel. Despite how rusted-on or stuck-in-place it may be, the OEM steering wheel MUST come off before the steering box can be removed from the tractor.
- Remove the mower deck (if equipped).
- Remove the tie-rod end that's connected to the pitman arm plate (steering lever).
- Remove the two 9/16" bolts that fastens the steering box to the cross-member of the frame.
- The steering unit then slides out from under the tractor.
How to disassemble the steering unit -
-
Remove the pitman arm plate and shaft.
- Remove the cotter pin from the end cap.
- Remove the end cap with a large flat screwdriver or flat ratchet tool by turning it counterclockwise.
- Pull or slide the shaft out of the steering box. Use caution not to lose any of the ball bearings!
- Clean and inspect everything. Observe the metal bearing retainers for cracks or breakage. Replace if necessary.
How to reassemble the steering unit -
- Install the ball bearings in the plastic retainers. Apply some grease on the balls so they'll stay in place upon installation.
- Install the bearings on the shaft with the metal retainers to hold them in place.
- Carefully slide the shaft through the steering box and column until it's bottomed out. Make sure no ball bearings have fallen out of their retainers.
- Install the end cap, and tighten it until it's bottomed out. Rotate the shaft to make sure that no looseness or binding occurs.
- If the shaft feels like it's somewhat hard to rotate, back the end cap off until one of the notches match the hole, and then install the cotter pin. Back off the end cap slightly more so the notch will be snug against the cotter pin. Rotate the shaft again to make sure that no looseness or binding occurs.
- Pump some fresh grease (automotive chassis lube) in the steering box and on the steering gear. Fill it up with grease.
- If it isn't already installed, install the steering pin and locknut in the pitman arm plate (steering lever).
- Install the pitman arm plate and shaft, flat thrush washer and adjusting nut.
- Tighten down the adjusting nut until it's bottomed out and back it off an 1/8 of a turn. Install the lock nut and tighten it against the adjusting nut.
- Tighten down the steering pin until it's bottomed out and back it off about an 1/8 of a turn.
- Rotate the shaft all the way one way and the other. If binding occurs or if it feels a little too loose, adjust the steering pin until it feels satisfactory. But make the adjustments so the steering is a little "stiff." Because somehow, it will loosen up again somewhat overtime. Install the locknut.
- Pump a few ounces of fresh chassis lube through the grease fitting to make sure the unit is absolutely full.
- That's it! The steering unit is now fully assembled, lubricated and adjusted!
NOTE: Of all the IH Cub Cadet steering boxes that I've rebuilt, hardly any
of them required new parts. But if you do need new internal parts, you can
get them at virtually any Cub Cadet dealer or even at most
John Deere lawn & garden service center and parts store.
They charge a lot less than most Cub Cadet dealers. Just tell them that you
have a John Deere model 110, 112, 120, 140, 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300,
312, 316 or 317. The steering box in these tractors, which is made by Ross,
are very similar to the ones used in the IH Cub Cadets, except for the mounting
holes. Most replacement parts that's needed are as follows:
- Bearing kit, which includes the bearings, retainers and cups. The John Deere part number is AM31924.
- The steering pin (stud). This part rides in the spiral groove of the worm gear. It has either 1/2-20 NF or 9/16-18 threads, has a straight screwdriver slot in one end, is rounded on the other end, mounts in the pitman arm and a jam nut secures it in place. I don't know the John Deere part number for the 1/2" stud, but the number for the 9/16" stud is M45567, which fits the CCC's, 982's and newer models. This particular part is no longer available from Cub Cadet. See below how to fabricate your own pin. Ê
- Plastic support bushing for the upper part the column, just under the steering wheel. The John Deere part number is M43743.
- If you ever get a stubborn-to-remove bottom plug, and it gets damaged upon removal, the John Deere part number for this part is M43745.
-
And remember, nothing may run like a Deere, but nothing pulls like a Cub
Cadet!
- Go here if you need part numbers and/or parts for the Cub Cadet steering unit: Steering parts for the Cub Cadet model 100. NOTE: Some parts are no longer available for these units!
Use a 1/2"-20 fine thread grade 8 bolt to fabricate a steering
pin:
Ever had the steering column (long tube) get pulled out of the steering box on your Cub Cadet? Well, doing the below will guarantee that it will never get pulled out again -
- Remove the steering box/column assembly from the tractor.
- If the tube fits somewhat loose in the steering box, it can be expanded with use of an automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool.
- Apply silicone sealer on the tube to prevent water and dirt from entering the steering box and then slip or gently drive it into the box until it bottoms out.
- Drill three or four small holes spaced equally apart (approximately 120° apart) through the steering box and into the tube.
- Install either small sheet metal screws or 1/8" diameter pop-rivets to permanently secure the tube to the steering box.
If the upper part of the steering tube becomes damaged from removing the steering wheel, it can be straightened back to its original shape with an automotive exhaust pipe expander/spreader tool and a medium size hammer. They're available at any auto parts store and on eBay. The internal steering shaft must be removed, so the tool will work.
For more information on how to rebuild a Cub Cadet steering box unit, please see this web site: http://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/SteeringBox.htm
If you're looking for a steering assembly or a steering part for your garden tractor, look in my advertisement web site or you can place a want ad in the same site.
Advertisement:
| If you need your steering box assembly rebuilt or repaired, please
contact me, Brian Miller, at A-1 Miller's Small Engine
& Specialty Shop (1501 West Old Plank Rd., Columbia, Missouri. 65203
| Phone: 1-573-875-4033). Please call any day between 12 noon and 8:00 p.m.
Central time, and please be patient because I stutter. Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
You can also contact me through Yahoo! Messenger:
|
Basically, I disassemble the
entire steering unit. Then I clean and inspect all the parts and replace
anything that's excessively worn. Then I reassemble it, adjust it and lubricate
it so it'll provide many more years of trouble-free service. $35.00
minimum labor, plus return shipping. New parts, if needed, are extra charge.
Fixing Worn or Loose Tie-Rod Ends -
To fix a worn tie-rod end...
- Thread a hardened 3/8" fine thread bolt into the end and clamp the bolt in a bench vise.
- Pound the ball end with a hammer so the ball is snug in the socket. But make sure the base of the ball joint end is resting on the jaws of the vise, to prevent bending the bolt.
- Lubricate the ball with ordinary motor oil.
NOTE: If the ball joint is worn badly and you have doubt that it may fail in the future, by all means, replace it with a known good used one or a new one. Actually, it's best to use aircraft-quality ball-joint ends with a flat washer installed.
Advertisement:
| If you need some new, heat treated OEM-quality tie-rod or aircraft-quality
ball joint ends, please contact me, Brian Miller, at A-1
Miller's Small Engine & Specialty Shop (1501 West Old Plank Rd.,
Columbia, Missouri. 65203 | Phone: 1-573-875-4033). Please call any day between
12 noon and 8:00 p.m. Central time, and please be patient because I stutter.
Fax: 1-573-449-7347. You can also contact me through Yahoo! Messenger:
New, Heat-Treated Tie Rod and Ball Joint Ends. Direct replacement for the OEM tie rod ends found on most lawn & garden tractors.
|
OEM-quality tie rod end with rubber
dust seal. Has 3/8-24 NF stud and 3/8-24 NF right-hand female threads.
Works great for ordinary yard work and stock pulling tractors.
$5.00 each, plus shipping.
Heavy duty ball joint end. Has
a 3/8-24 NF right-hand female threaded hole and a 3/8" i.d. hole.
Extremely strong! Note: Ball joint ends are the exact same thing that's
required in aircraft and heavy duty machinery because they're much stronger
than tie rod ends. They're a direct replacement for tie rod ends on most
lawn & garden equipment and all that's needed is a 3/8" minimum grade
5 bolt to secure it to the steering lever. And these do not have a dust seal,
so they'll wear more when used for ordinary yard work if they're not protected.
$11.00 each, plus shipping.
Fixing a Loose Fitting Drag Link Arm -125, 127 & 147
To fix a
loose fitting drag link arm on the narrow frame Cub Cadets (models
70,
71,
72,
73,
100,
102,
104, 105,
106, 107,
122, 123,
124, 125,
126 and 147),
the hub must be "clamped" to the spindle. To do this...
- Remove the drag link arm from the spindle.
- Use a hacksaw to cut a couple of slots in the hub 90° in relation to the roll-pin holes. Cut the slots 90% down into the hub.
- Place the arm on the spindle and drill through all three (roll-pin) holes with a 3/8" drill bit.
- Acquire a hardened (grade 8) 3/8" bolt, split lockwasher and hardened (grade 8) nut. Make sure the bolt has an unthreaded (shouldered) portion the same width as the diameter of the hub.
- Install the bolt in the hub and spindle and then torque the nut tightly so the hub is squeezed onto the spindle. NOTE: clamping the hub may weaken the factory spot weld. Therefore, the hub may need to be re-welded to the arm.
Advertisement:
 If you need some heavy duty 3/8" replacement spiral (or
coiled) roll-pins for your 3-pin clutch drive plate or drag link arm and
spindle (the holes in the drag link arm and spindle will need to be drilled
to 3/8" for the roll pin to fit), please contact me, Brian Miller, at
A-1 Miller's Small Engine & Specialty Shop
(1501 West Old Plank Rd., Columbia, Missouri. 65203 | Phone: 1-573-875-4033).
Fax: 1-573-449-7347. You can also contact me through Yahoo! Messenger:
|
Reinforcing the Steering Spindles (only on the narrow frame Cub Cadets) -
If you've
seen the front tires on the narrow frame Cub Cadets (models
70,
71,
72,
73,
100,
102,
104, 105,
106, 107,
122, 123,
124, 125,
126 and 147) that
look "dilapidated" (the top of the tires tilt inward from doing too many
ground-pounding wheelies), this means that the steering spindles are bent
and weren't reinforced. To prevent the spindles from getting bent...
- Straighten the spindles in a hydraulic press if they need it. (Set them so the top of the tires will tilt outward somewhat for that "tough" look.)
- Weld a 1/4" x 3/4" x 1-3/4" piece of steel (brace) in the elbow section.
Advertisement:
| If you need the spindles and drag link arm on your narrow frame Cub
Cadet reinforced as described above, please contact me, Brian Miller, at
A-1 Miller's Small Engine & Specialty Shop
(1501 West Old Plank Rd., Columbia, Missouri. 65203 | Phone: 1-573-875-4033).
Fax: 1-573-449-7347. You can also contact me through Yahoo! Messenger:
|
How
to lengthen the drag link (the steering link that connects the steering box
to the front axle) when moving the front axle forward:
- Measure the distance that the front axle has been moved forward. Make a note of the measurement.
- Center the steering wheel (pitman arm) and then remove the drag link. IH Cub Cadets have a 1.75:1 steering ratio. To find the center, place a mark (masking tape) on the steering wheel. Then rotate it one way to the extreme. Then return it with the mark being halfway.
- Measure the distance between the end of each tie rod or ball joint bolt hole. This is important! Make a note of this measurement.
- Cut the drag link in half.
- Get some 1/2" i.d. x 5/8" o.d. steel tubing of adequate length. But get about 6" more than the measurement. This is important!
- Slip each cut end of the drag link rod inside the tubing. For strength and durability, make sure there's at least 3" of the rod inside the tubing. The rod may have to be ground down and/or pressed in.
- Adjust the overall length of the lengthened drag link so it'll now have the added difference of how far the axle has been moved forward.
- Weld it together, grind the weld smooth, paint and that's it!
OR, for a professional look...
- Acquire some 3" long fine thread 3/8" diameter bolts and a long piece of 3/8" i.d. x 1/2" o.d. steel tubing.
- Cut the heads off the bolts and bevel the end (grind smooth), thread the bolts halfway into each tie rod or ball joint end, then place the ends in the drag link arm and pitman arm lever.
- Center the front tires and the steering wheel.
- Measure the distance between the tie rod or ball joint ends halfway on the unthreaded end of the bolts.
- Measure and cut off a piece of the steel tubing, then slip the bolts inside the tubing.
- Measure again, then weld the tubing to the bolts.
- Install a jam nut on each bolt to prevent the tubing from turning.
- Grind the weld smooth, paint and that's it!
If the center hole in your axle is worn, this can be repaired by first boring the hole for a press-fit steel sleeve and then bore the sleeve so a new center pin (or grade 8 or stainless steel bolt) will fit snug in it. Or, you can also bore the hole in the axle and support bracket with a 20 millimeter diameter (equal to .7874") drill bit or reamer and install a hardened 20 mm bolt. It'll be a lot less work to do just do this.
And to fix the worn holes for the spindles in the axle itself on a narrow frame Cub Cadet, the holes will need to be bored or reamed out and a couple of bronze bushings installed for each side.
How to lower the front end 2-1/2" on the wide- or spread-frame Cub Cadet models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 682, 782, 982, 800, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1250, 1450 or 1650 -
- Remove the front spindles (steering knuckles).
- Cut off the original axle stubs.
- Weld on either a 3/4" diameter minimum grade 5 bolt to the extreme upper part of each spindle.
- Make sure the bolts are straight, or the front tires won't set right.
A Pivoting Axle Vs. a Solid-Mounted Axle for Pulling Competition?
I've seen modified garden tractors with a swivel front axle and I've seen some modifieds with a solid-mounted axle. And I noticed that one doesn't pull any better than the other. So it seems it's just the pullers' preference if he or she wants a swivel or solid front axle. And about the only way to fix the looseness of the center pivoting pin hole is to have the axle bored for installation of thin wall bronze bushings, like the ones used for king pins in truck front axles.
How to Repair Worn Pivot Pin Holes for the Front Axle -
Sometimes the pivoting pin in the center of the front axle will rust in place and then the pin will pivot in the holes in the support braces. When this happens, overtime the holes will become oblong and the axle will become unstable, causing sloppy steering. Well, to repair a tractor with worn pivot holes like the ones in the picture below...
- Drill or ream the holes in the braces to exactly 1.000".
- Fabricate a steel reducer sleeve bushing (spacer) that measures 3/4" i.d. x 1.003" o.d. for a press-fit.
- Press each bushing in the holes of the braces. Make sure the bushings are aligned properly so the pin will rotate freely to prevent binding.
- Tack weld the edge of each bushing on the outside of the braces.
Advertisement:
If you need a set of new front wheel bushings or bearings for your garden
tractor, please contact me, Brian Miller, at A-1 Miller's
Small Engine & Specialty Shop (1501 West Old Plank Rd., Columbia,
Missouri. 65203 | Phone: 1-573-875-4033). Fax: 1-573-449-7347. You can also
contact me through Yahoo! Messenger:
|
  Heavy duty, flanged bronze bushing for virtually all Cub Cadet
and John Deere garden tractors upper part of the steering column with the
metal cap installed. Sizes available:
|
| Heavy duty, low speed,
oil-impregnated metal graphite flanged wheel bushing. Oil impregnated
means they absorb oil and grease to last longer. The oil acts as a cushion
between the bearing and shaft, adding resistance to wear. These last a long
time as long as they're lubricated with grease (chassis lube) regularly.
Universal fit. Size: 3/4" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 9/16" width (1/2" fits inside
the wheel hub), flange o.d. is 1-1/2". $2.50 each, plus shipping. |
| Heavy duty, low speed,
oil-impregnated metal graphite flanged wheel bushing for "Original" Cub Cadet
front wheels. Size: 7/8" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x 1" width. These are the
same as above except I bore them to 7/8". $3.00 each, plus shipping. |
 Heavy duty, low speed, sealed
(both sides) ball bearing flanged front wheel bearing. These have hardened,
heated-treated steel races and roller balls inside and are pre-packed with
grease so they will last a long time. Size: 3/4" i.d. x 1-3/8" o.d. x
1/2" width (3/8" fits inside the wheel hub), flange o.d. is 1-1/2". Universal
fit. $5.00 each, plus shipping. |
| We can machine any bushing, bracket, or any other machined part that you may need to your specifications. Just phone or email us with your needs. Other sizes and styles of bearings and bushings are also available. Please let me know what you need and I can probably get it for you at a reasonable price. I need to know the dimensions of the bearings or bushings, too. |
Linked pages to my parts & services:
Please click HERE, e-mail me at pullingtractor@aol.com or call me at 1-573-875-4033 if you need machine work performed, repairs made, various parts, if your business would like to help sponsor my web sites or if you'd like to make a donation towards my web sites. Please call between 12 noon and 8:00 p.m. Central time, and please be patient because I stutter.
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