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CHAINPLATE RETROFIT
Brent Trockman's solution to a nagging question

The basic facts regarding the chainplates are as follows:

The factory plates are made of 1/4 inch stainless and were bonded into the hull during layup. They get wider than what shows on deck a few inches below the toerail. There is no way one of these plates will pull out.

What can and usually does happen is that water gets in from the opening on the toerail and becomes trapped in the hull around the chainplates. This leads to crevice corrosion, which will turn that stainless steel into rust. I think there are probably many boats out there that have the lower 2/3 of their chainplates corroded, but due to the beefy nature of the entire rig, the upper 1/3 is intact and still strong enough to support the rig.

I had a dream one night that my chainplates were full of water. It disturbed me so much that I took out my drill the next day and drilled some holes from the inside, water gushed out and depression set in. The glass was a little puffy on the forward lower, inside the locker, so I picked it away to reveal a chainplate that looked like an old pirates padlock at the bottom of the sea. Depression turned in to panic.

I drilled many holes, drained the water, heated the area for several days, poured in alot of epoxy etc. Then I had 6 new plates made up out of stainless. In hindsight I wish I had used bronze, but money was tight at the time. The lowers are fairly straight forward. The uppers must be made very wide so as to straddle the main bulkhead. I drilled some small pilot holes from the inside out to make sure I was lined up and started installing the new chainplates one at a time, lowers first, so the rig could stay up. Using a cut-off tool, I cut off the top of the old plates below the level of the toerail and sealed them up in epoxy.

Drilling right through the old hull and the old plates, I installed the new ones on the outside of the hull, using the largest washers possible on the inside. All this was quite straightforward, but I did use 6 drill bits, as the metal in the old chainplates was far tougher than I had anticipated. Be careful not to drill too fast so you don't melt the glass!

Now there are 1/4" plates, glass, and another 1/4" plate, more glass and 2" fender washers on each plate. I don't worry about the chainplates failing anymore.

BATTERIES INCLUDED...1,300 POUNDS OF 'EM!
Steve Cooper's solar-powered RAINBOW

If some day you happen to be cruising around the marinas in Alameda, California, you may find several 30-foot sailboats with the familiar lines of the Rawson.  But only one would be moving along at near hull speed with sails furled, yet without a sound, nor a puff of smoke, nor the rhythmic splash of exhaust water.  That would be Steve Cooper's RAINBOW. Steve had experimented with CNG as a fuel in his 400-pound, 4-cylinder gas engine before deciding to chuck the whole thing and go electric.  Here's how he did it.

Seven humdred pounds of concrete ballast were removed with hand chisel and roto hammer to make way for some of the 22 six-volt golf cart batteries aboard RAINBOW.  Six are under the floor, six are hidden at floor level, and ten are stored in a custom rack in the engine compartment.  Eighteen of the batteries run the Advanced DC 36-volt motor.  It is controlled by a Curtis PMC controller and a relay system out of an old electric fork lift.  Steve can cruise at 3.5 to 4 knots for eight hours (50-60 Amps).  Top speed is 5.5 knots at 120-130 Amps, but at a limit of 3 hours.

All those electrons moving about generate a bit of heat, so Steve installed a forced air system to cool it.  The heated air is ducted back into the cabin to take the chill off those San Francisco Bay mornings and evenings.

Getting amps back into all those batteries when away from the dock relies on the sun-gathering abilties of seven solar panels (four are Siemens and three Solec).  They provide 250 Watts of solar power, which has proven to be adequate for Steve's needs.

The house system bank of four batteries is served by one dedicated panel augmented by a 50 Watt DC-DC converter tapped off the 36-volt system.  Steve enjoys the use of a microwave, refrigeration, espresso maker, and laptop computer through a 1,500-watt Statpower inverter.

Steve's already proved that going solar doesn't mean roughing it.  And the total cost (under $5,400) was a lot less than a diesel conversion.  But he's not stopping there.  Watch for further developments.

See a photo of RAINBOW in our PHOTO GALLERY.

REPAIRING A ROTTED COMPRESSION POST BASE
Thanks to Mike Heath (CANDIDE) of Ft. Lauderdale, FL

The bilges on the Rawson are all interconnected, which means that when water fills the aft bilge in flows to the front bilge section through a limber hole on the starboard side. When this section reaches a certain level it will flow on to the concrete ballast in the head. Now this area is recessed to accept a shower sump. Due to this recess the water can not drain back into the bilge. The compression post is set into the concrete ballast to a depth of about a foot, so this is the only place for the water to run.

On the 1969 Rawsons the sole in the head was 1/2 inch plywood so you can not see the standing water. What I did to fix the problem was to remove the mast, then cut the bottom of the post off and clean out the rotten wood from the hole where the compression post sits. I then filled the hole with concrete and leveled it off. I had a stainless steel shoe made and slipped it over the end of the compression post. This shoe has a lip on the inside which the post rest on and is bolted to the post. I then had a welder com out and heat form the flanges on the bottom of the shoe to rest evenly on the ballast. I then replaced the plywood sole in the head with a teak grate so that section would have constant air exchange.

The water came from the cockpit engine hatch which always leaked, so eventually I designed another which did not. I have a feeling that the compression post problem may be common on older Rawsons due to the way the post is set and the solid wooden floor. We found it quite by accident while cleaning the boat right after we bought it, even the Surveyor missed it.

MORE ON COMPRESSION POST ROT (added 12/14/99)

Brent Trockman wrote:

I checked out my compression post and it is very wet, as is the port main bulkhead. There is no rot ! It appears that I have one of 2 things going on.

1.) A slow leak in the fresh water hose for the vanity, which is inches from the compression post. I hope this is the case

2.) A rainwater leak from above, possibley leftover from before I sealed the new chainplates. The water is fresh water, not bilge water and has not been there very long as there is no rot and just a small patch of mold.

There was no standing water in the sump area.

My question is: When you replaced your mast step is there any hole in the deck below the step or is it solid glass. Was there a factory hole for wiring perhaps? I must eliminate this possibility before I go for the bulkhead theorey. It seems that the likely cause of this problem is water that has worked its way down the tabbing between the hull and bulkhead.

BRENT:

Removing the teak mast step revealed two lag bolts, as I recall. They screwed down into 1) the compression post, 2) the "knee" in the fore cabin. There also was an entry for mast wires. All were sealed pretty tightly in resin ... but. The wires, unfortunately, like most of the factory-installed wiring, disappear into the bulkhead itself, as if into a routed channel.

I think if the bolt into the knee were leaking, you'd see water stains on the wood there. The bolt into the compression post goes right into the middle of solid wood. These bolts, BTW, were so corroded I couldn't back them out. Had to grind them off flush with the cabin top. That leaves the wiring channel as a suspect IF there is a top-down leak. I kind-a doubt it, though. My mast step was really cracked from neglect, plenty of wide gaps, etc. yet there was no sign of water anywhere.

Are you still using the original mast wiring? INDY came with a different set-up. The old wires had been cut off and new ones run down the mast, exiting through the port side via a hose and into the cabin top over the head compartment where they terminated in a terminal block screwed into the side of the compression post. I replaced all the wiring a year or two ago, but last year discovered that water was migrating down INSIDE the 3-conductor cable that led to the masthead/deck light. (it took sitting on the boat in the yard during a hurricane to see the water dripping out of the cable). Removing the fixture and caulking the bejeesus out of it has stopped the leak.

Good luck.
EG

HERE'S BRENT'S DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR (12/20/99)

Rawsoneers:

I was able to find the source of water for my moist compression post. By hole sawing an inspection hole in the port side of the mast 4 inches up from the step we were able to view the hole where the ancient wires pierced the cabin top and travelled down the compression post. upon putting a hose in the mast we were treated to a fine leak that travelled between the bulkhead and the post , apparantly in the corner where the head door panel mates with the post and bulkhead.

Solution. Methyl alcohol to displace the water, followed by a dry heater coupled with a wonderful high pressure system with 75 degree weather dried everything out. Several holes were drilled in the post and the bulkhead to check for rot. None was found as the water quickly drained to the bilge.

The floor in the head was CAREFULLY cut out to get to the post and ballast. (I have a real, genuine teak floor on Andante, no veneer). I am adding cleats and using the same panel as opposed to installing a grate. With the removeable panel, I can set it aside when off the boat to get ventilation.

This is something I do with all cabin sole floor boards. the bilge up here was very clean and dry, except for the leak as described. No sign of any standing pools I am relieved to say.

Several holes were drilled into the post and the concrete to check for a water level. Again, no rot and we got it bone dry.

The mast step was liberally done up with smith"s CPES, followed by West Epoxy, with thickened epoxy to fill in any cracks in the teak step. All edges were filleted both on the mast and on the deck. The base of the post, the bulkhead and a good portion of the concrete were bathed in Smith's as well. In addition quite a bit ran down from the mast step.

Finally, the inside of the mast was completely filled with 3M 101 to a depth of 1 inch. When this cures I will put a bottle of Captain Tolley's over that. The existing drain holes in the mast were 1 inch above the step, which meant the water level had to be at least this high to drain. Not good. The 101 fixed that. The inspection hole will have a nice cover with 5 machine screw holding it in place. (tefgel of course). The teak step will be painted over to protect the epoxy from UV.

I don't think it will leak again........ever.

Thanks to Emil and the crew of Indy for this website. I was inspired to check my post due to the other article posted here. Early detection saved a possible disaster.

Brent Trockman
"Andante" 1964 Rawson C30

CUTLASS BEARING REPLACEMENT
Thanks to Mat Keller (CANDICE) of Sebastopol, California

In July 1997 I replaced the cutlass bearing on CANDICE (hull no.14) for the first time. Since I was not that familiar with her private parts, I phoned Ron Rawson for advice. He advised against driving out the bearing, because the bronze casting is cemented in with a resin that could be cracked, resulting in a slow but bothersome leak. He suggested using an “inside gear puller”. Some yards may have such a thing, mine did not. What is needed is a device that pulls on the bearing while not pulling on the casting. I easily pulled the bearing with the following device.

MATERIALS:

12 inch x 1/2 inch threaded rod
5-inch long piece of 1 1/2-inch water pipe
two 2-inch iron washers
one 1 1/2-inch iron washer ground to just fit inside the bronze casting
5 nuts that fit the threaded rod

Remove propeller shaft. On one end of the rod, put on two nuts and lock them together. Slide on the washer that has been ground to fit the casting, and insert from inside the boat. From the outside, pull on the rod to snug the ground washer up to the cutlass bearing. Place the 5-inch water pipe over the rod, so it butts against the bronze casting. Slip the two large washers onto the rod, they will butt up against the water pipe. Add one nut, and turn it until it butts against the large washers. Put two nuts and on the end of the rod and lock them. Holding the locked nuts with a wrench, use another wrench to tighten the single nut against the large washers. This will pull the ground washer against the inside end of the cutlass bearing and pull it out. The pressure is on the casting, not on the hull, so the casting/hull cement is not stressed.

I squirted WD 40 into the bronze casting the night before, and once it started to move the bearing came out easily. I used the reverse of this method to insert the new bearing.

I have a drawing of the set-up in place, but I can’t seem to send pictures over email. I would be happy to mail the drawing if some one needs it.

Ron says the bearing thickness will vary from one boat to the next, depending on when it was built, so you need to pull the old one before buying the replacement (or buy one each of the available thicknesses and return the ones not used). The one in Candice was the tight-fitting type, with no set screws.

Q&A DEPARTMENT

Mat Keller has two technical questions for Rawson owners:

1. Dealers tell me they can't find a TRANSMISSION that will fit the space allocated for my present one. Anyone out there using a Perkins 4-108 (or the Westerbeke version) in a Rawson 30 with a transmission that has about a 1.8 to 1 reduction?

2. My motor needs rebuilding. An option would be to REPOWER with a new motor and transmission. I need at least 40 hp, preferably 50 hp. Any suggestions?

Brent Trockman sent in these questions:

3.  Have you considered REMOVING THE CONCRETE under the V-berth? A guy down here with a PH model has done it, says it's great. I think the void should be partially filled with epoxy if the concrete is removed.

4.  Also, have you heard any reports of the factory bronze BACKSTAY CHAINPLATE having problems? I look at those 4 old bronze bolts and get a little nervous.

HYDRAULIC STEERING OVERHAUL

Bob Gray of Richmond, Virginia has some useful information he discovered in overhauling the hydraulic steering on his 1977 Pilothouse, YES, INDEEDY...

"After digging through the maintenance log I learned that she is equipped with a Wagner N-65 cylinder. A rebuild kit is available from Hamilton-Jett at 1111 Northwest Ballard Way, Seattle, Washington, 98107 for $42.14. Their telephone number is 1-800-423-3509. The entire N-65 cyclinder is also available for just over $700, making the rebuild all the more attractive. Now if I could just locate a pygmy that could fit into the space under the cockpit."

Here are some other topics we hope to describe in this section. Each has been undertaken by one or more current Rawson owners.

RIGGING AND SAIL HANDLING

  1. Add or modify a bowsprit.
  2. Add an inner forestay and running backstays.
  3. Run halyards inside the mast.
  4. Add external chain plates.
  5. Spinnaker pole or whisker pole rigs.
  6. Replace the teak mast base.
  7. Mid-boom mainsail sheeting.
  8. Mainsail reefing and furling systems.
  9. Mast steps.
  10. Full battens, short battens, or no battens?
  11. Running control lines to the cockpit.
  12. Autopilots and windvanes.
  13. The Rawson Yawl conversion -- anyone out there?

ON-DECK

  1. Deck and cabin-top reinforcing.
  2. Toe rail replacement.
  3. Upgrade opening ports.
  4. Large fixed ports. Safe enough?
  5. Custom hard dodger.
  6. Add a bridge deck, reduce cockpit size.
  7. Dinghy stowage.
  8. Anchor handing systems.

BELOW THE WATERLINE

  1. Thru-hulls and seacocks.
  2. Rudder retrofits.
  3. Dripless shaft seal.

PLUMBING AND ELECTRICAL

  1. MSD upgrades
  2. Holding/Water/Fuel tanks
  3. Wiring projects

CABIN AND GALLEY

  1. Alternate layouts
  2. New icebox/reefer
  3. Heater/stove installations
  4. Storage solutions
  5. Insulation

We look forward to getting even more ideas from you, as well as to hear your thoughts on the topic of "Restoration vs Modernization."

 

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