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Tour Diary
I Am Spartacus
by Bill DeMain (originally published by In Natural Magazine)
Before I left for Swan Dive's tour of Japan, I took a break from
packing to watch the video of That Thing You Do. It was my fourth
time to see it, but once again, I got caught up in the story of
a fledgling 60s band riding the crest of their first big hit single,
complete with screaming fans, autographs, interviews, radio and
television appearances - the whole pop life vigorously lived out
in under two hours.
While there's some basic differences - the wide-eyed innocence
of 1964 is a far cry from 1997, and Swan Dive isn't the first
band I've been in - our tour of Japan certainly had a lot of That
Thing You Do moments. The following is from notes I kept during
our trip.
October 22, 1997: The Air Necessities
The flight from Nashville to Tokyo, counting a layover in Detroit,
is nearly 16 1/2 hours. Molly and I talk about how excited we
are to arrive, to perform, to see our friends. We read. We fidget.
We talk some more. We watch movies. It's impossible for me to
sleep on the plane. I can't find a comfortable position. Molly
has the window seat, so at least she can rest her head to the
side. After the end of the third movie, Breakdown, with Kurt Russell,
I close my eyes for an hour or two, pretending to be asleep. Then
the captain announces, "Ladies and gentlemen, we've begun our
descent into Tokyo Narita airport."
We arrive, get though customs and meet our party at the gate.
Yoshi, our friend and manager, is accompanied by Toshi and Chika,
who work for the concert promotion company handling the tour.
Introductions all around.
After an hour and a half drive to the Tobu Hotel in Shibuya, we
check in, get freshened up and then we're off to a party to celebrate
the release of our new CD, Wintergreen. It's wonderful to see
all the friendly faces of the Tristar Records gang again. They
applaud as we enter the cafe, then for the next two hours we talk,
laugh and eat, until finally Molly and I can barely keep our eyes
open. Back to the hotel.
October 23, 1997: Questions & Answers
I wake up to what sounds like children screaming outside the hotel
room window. Then I remember the blackbirds. Tokyo has these mutant
super crows that swoop through the morning air, cawing in thick,
throaty calls. They're straight out of Edgar Allan Poe.
Today is the first of five days of heavy promotion preceding the
live shows. We have an average of eight interviews per day, interspersed
with radio performances and TV appearances. Coming from Nashville,
where we might do one interview a year, this is media overload.
And I love it!
As a magazine writer myself, I'm impressed by the music journalists
we meet. They know their facts and more importantly, they've listened
to our record. That may sound like a redundant compliment, but
believe me, in America these days, journalists don't seem to care
enough to do that basic bit of homework. Moreover, the Japanese
journalists are passionate music fans. They know their pop history.
They're enthusiastic about records and bands and rare B-sides.
Of course, after two days of interviews, some repetition creeps
into their questions. The most popular ones: "How is it for Swan
Dive coming from Nashville, a town known mainly for country music?"
and "What's it like working with the producer Brad Jones?" We
try to vary our answers.
Each interview is followed by a photo session. This is slightly
daunting for me. I've come to terms with the fact that I'm not
a matinee idol. Mostly, I just try to smile and keep my eyes open.
I do have some nifty thrift store suits to wear, so at least my
clothes will look cool. When Molly and I need to relax in front
of the camera, we play a word association game called George Washington
Carver. One person says the name of a celebrity or well-known
person - Richard Dreyfuss, for example. Then the next person has
to respond with a related name - say, Richard Nixon or Julia Louis
Dreyfus. It sets us at ease and always amuses the photographers.
October 25, 1997: Singles Going Steady!

A That Thing You Do moment. I hear "Groovy Tuesday" on the radio!
Our single is racing up the carts on radio stations all over Japan.
We're sharing some rarified air with the likes of Boyz II Men,
Oasis, Janet Jackson and The Rolling Stones. Incredible! It feels
like even more of a coup because our song is basically a dressed
up demo. A lot of it was recorded in my apartment with cheapo
mikes. So much for modern technology.
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Tokyo is a girl watcher's paradise. For a closet ogler such as
myself, I find that no matter where I turn my gaze, there's a
lovely young woman. All of them are so lithe, graceful and demure,
with shimmery hair, smooth complexions and stylish clothing. The
sidewalks are catwalks here. I'm falling in love every two minutes.
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Another busy day. Kyo wa totemmo isogashii desu. At one of the
photo sessions, we're outside in a park. Molly is recreating the
giant 12-foot woman from our video for "The Day That I Went Home."
With her pink flamingo hat and long spindly arms (actually cardboard
poles with mannequin hands attached), she's drawing more than
a few curious stares from passers by.
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Molly has her own make-up and hair person, Kato-san. He's always
got his eye on her, looking for a spot that needs touching up
or a renegade strand of hair. It's fun to watch.
October 26, 1997: Ogenki desu ka?
Prior to this trip, Molly and I had taken a few months of Japanese
language classes. I think out of respect for the people we've
met, many of whom can speak our native language fluently, we wanted
to at least make an effort to learn theirs. We know some basic
phrases and we can ask questions such as "Tokyo eki wa doko desu
ka?" and "Ima nan ji desu ka?" But our tiny bit of knowledge sure
comes in handy today.
We film segments for a TV show, Music Bazar, first at an amusement
park, then at a traditional Japanese restaurant. We have to read
many long, unfamiliar Japanese phrases from cue cards, and I'm
grateful that we have a fundamental grasp of pronunciation, so
at least we don't sound like total rubes.
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I like the taxi drivers in Tokyo. They are men of quiet decorum.
With white cloth gloves, they grip the wheel at 10 and 2 O' clock.
Their eyes are fixed on the puzzle of threading their small vehicles
through the maze of Tokyo streets. What a nice change from New
York cabbies.
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The hectic pace, coupled with the fact that I feel like I haven't
eaten a substantial meal since I've been here, is taking its toll.
I'm exhausted, with a slight tickle in my throat. I've probably
talked more in the past few days than I have the whole year! Our
first show is tomorrow, so I don't want to even think about getting
sick. I can't, I won't.
October 27, 1997: Stormy Monday
The morning of our opening night and my voice has disappeared.
Knowing how healthy I've been for the past year and a half, this
is incredible to me, some kind of cosmic joke. I'm panicking.
I'm hoping that herbal tea, lemons, hydrogen peroxide and lozengers
will pull me through.
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Unfortunately, they don't. The first show, while not a disaster,
is pretty rough. It shakes my confidence. My voice holds out for
about three songs, then it's gone. I screw up big time in "Groovy
Tuesday," forgetting the modulation in the final chorus. Yikes!
Afterwards, our friends from the press and the label are kind,
but I want to crawl off and hide somewhere. I think of the scene
in That Thing You Do where The Wonders' first big show is a mass
of feedback and dropped instruments. I need to sleep.
October 28, 1997: Groovy Tuesday
I'm feeling a little better.
Breakfast in Japan is an adjustment. At home, it's usually my
most elaborate meal. I'll alternate between mushroom and green
pepper omelettes, scrambled tofu, fresh fruit shakes, english
muffins and muesli. After a few days of soba noodles and then
some crullers and coffee from Mr. Donut, I'm nostalgic for my
own cooking.
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I get a boost from a magical Chinese elixir with herbs and royal
jelly (thanks Yoshi!) and it helps make our second show at Tokyo's
Club Quattro everything the first wasn't. We revamp the set list
slightly, leaving out a few songs that I might not be able to
sing. Though my voice is only about 65% there, we sound really
good, relaxed. "Free," "The Day That I Went Home" and "Words"
all get a loud response. Halfway into the set we do "Benny's Grave,"
a song from our first record. In a single white spotlight, Molly
plays solo clarinet over the slow waltz intro, then as the tempo
leaps into a swing groove, the lights come up on Mike and I, wearing
skeleton masks. It's our little way of celebrating Halloween and
the audience really digs it.
Ever since I started playing guitar in high school, I've dreamed
of the day when I could say on stage, "This is our brand new single."
I finally got to say it! "This is our brand new single, 'Groovy
Tuesday.'" Everyone cheered. What a wonderful feeling.
After our encores, Molly and I walked along the front of the stage,
sahking hands with some of our fans. Kids were actually shouting
our names, reaching out for us. What an incredible rush. I think
of the main character's line in That Thing You Do: "I am Spartacus."
Then, immediately after the show, Molly, Mike and I skip protocol
and go out into the lobby to meet our fans. We're instantly mobbed
by girls wanting autographs and photos! In the months to come,
whenever I'm feeling down or having a bout with the blues, I'll
remember these moments.
Backstage, we receieve a long line of friends, fans, journalists
and other music business folks. Everyone is warm and so kind,
giving us gifts and high praise. We even meet the head CEO of
Sony, who has flown in from Hong Kong especially for our show.
What an honor!
October 29, 1997: The Man, The Train
A word about our manager Yoshi Nagato. I'll be eternally grateful
to him, because he was the first person who really believed in
Swan Dive enough to go to the record labels with our music. Where
other people in the business heard something that was stylistically
hard to categorize or difficult to format, Yoshi heard music that
he thought was great, and that was enough for him. During our
tour, Yoshi takes care of everything. His energy knows no bounds.
When I picture him, he's in motion, walking the Tokyo streets
at a fast clip, running ahead to find about train schedules, sorting
out last minute details, always with a positive attitude. He's
a remarkable guy, and also possessor of one of the most knowledgable
and passionate minds about pop music I've ever encountered. I
feel fortunate to know him.
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We ride the bullet train, or Shinkansen, to Nagoya. As it's name
implies, it's sleek, fast and clean. I doze, but catch some of
the night scenery flashing by the windows. No open space, but
one continuous cityscape, lit up white, red, yellow and blue.
There's more leg room than a jet airplane. A dapper little guy
in a brown-and-white checked uniform wheels a refreshment cart
through every twenty minutes or so.
October 30, 1997: Nagoya!
Somehow I thought Nagoya would appear much smaller than Tokyo,
but the cab ride is another trip through a shimmering gauntlet
of bright storefronts and neon lights that seem to stretch for
miles in every direction.
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Staff Gang, the company that's putting on our concerts, is doing
an amazing job. All details are attended to - the sound systems
are clear and powerful, and the lights, especially in Tokyo, reflect
the changing moods of the songs in our set. Again, this is all
such a step up for us, because in Nashville, a lot of the clubs
have crappy P.A.'s and the light show consists of a few washed
out spots that stay on at the same intensity for the whole set.
And I could certainly get used to having my guitar tuned and set
up before every performance.
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The crowd in Nagoya is reserved, but appreciative. After the enthusiasm
of the Tokyo audience, it's a little off-putting at first. But
we're told that the character of the Nagoya residents is very
shy and diffident.
October 31, 1997: Trick Or Treat!
During our final show in Osaka, we find the relaxed groove that's
been missing. My throat is clear, so I can sing unimpeded at last,
which restores my confidence. Mike walks on stage in a white policeman's
helmet, waving one of those red-tipped flashlights that looks
like a miniature version of a Star Wars light sabre. During the
night, he breaks into unannounced James Brown dances. He's hilarious.
Molly has learned some Osaka slang - "Mo karimaka?" "Bochi bochi
de na," and "Okini" - and the audience eats it up. The mix is
perfect. We sail through the set. We add a third encore, "Let
'Em In," by McCartney & Wings. This is how it should be.
November 1-4: Our Days Off
My first day off I devote to shopping. It's a holiday in Japan,
so the Shibuya streets are teeming with shoppers, couples and
families out enjoying the day. I find a store called Time Is On,
which has 60s style British straight leg trousers and very smart
shirts and sweaters. The prices are high, especially for a thrift
store shopper such as myself, but the fashions and selection are
too good to pass up. Next I hit the record stores, Tower, HMV,
Recofan and a whole slew of upstairs specialty shops. I buy a
bunch of Italian movie soundtrack compilations, a Ben Folds 5
live bootleg and some 60s British invasion stuff that's impossible
to find in the states. At the end of the day, I return to the
hotel, loaded down with bags, like a Christmas shopper in New
York City.
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If I had to pick one thing about our whole experience in Japan
that overwhelms me the most, it would be the Swan Dive displays
in the record stores. In the U.S., we are a regional act with
a small following in our hometown, Nashville.. But here in Japan,
we're given the full star treatment with our likenesses in styrofoam
and cardboard right next to international acts such as Mariah
Carey, Stereolab, Oasis and Hanson. In HMV, there's a beautiful
end rack display with a listening station devoted to Wintergreen.
I can't help but hang around, watching customers slip on the headphones
as they check out our CD. It makes me so proud, especially when
someone carries one off to the register.
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It's time to return to Nashville. I don't want to go back, but
I have a feeling that this is only the beginning for Swan Dive.
There's been some talk of releasing our next record internationally,
through Europe and Asia. Suddenly, I realize that we're going
to have a career.
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