We Make History - Early Victorian Ladies' Clothing

Main >> Hobbies & Interests >> My First Home Page

Clothing for Ladies Reenacting circa 1840-1869

The “Early Victorian” Era

Lord Scott

Ladies

(All ladies’ items are listed in the order in which they would typically have been put on.)

Stockings - These were long, coming up well above the knee and were made of silk, cotton or wool. Leather or fabric garters could be used to hold them in place.

Pantalets - Pantalets were crotchless underwear of about mid-calf length. They could be of cotton, silk or linen and often had lace trim at the bottom. Sometimes they were even flounced.

Chemise - The Chemise (aka “shift” or “shimmy”) was the basic undergarment and looked like a long blouse or short nightgown. Cotton, silk and linen were the fabric options. A woman clad in only her chemise was considered to be “naked” and would never be seen in such a condition by other than immediate family, a doctor or perhaps a personal servant.

Corset (aka “Stays”) - Virtually all women owned a corset and it is a necessary item to get a true mid-nineteenth century look as the dresses, skirts and bodices of the time were designed with the assumption that one would be worn. The corset of this era had a fair amount of “boning” for support and was designed to create an “hourglass” figure. It was worn over the chemise. The corset could be made of heavy cotton, linen or silk. Any woman who went out in public without wearing a corset was considered by at least one fashion and etiquette writer of the period to be “loose”. Whether this comment was intended to be relative to her physical or to her moral condition is somewhat open to conjecture.

At any reenactment event the difference in authenticity and quality of look between ladies who do and those who do not wear a corset can be quite striking. Good ones are fairly expensive to have made but not too difficult to make yourself.

Petticoat - The petticoat was essentially a skirt used as an undergarment. It was worn over the chemise, pantalets and corset but under the hoopskirt. A woman would wear at least one and possibly several. They were most often cotton but could be linen, silk or wool. In the early part of this period, ladies achieved the fashionable dome shape by using multiple petticoats, some of which may have been padded or quilted. The “crinoline” was originally a petticoat which had been stiffened, often with horsehair in order to hold out the voluminous skirt. But then in the 1850s came a new French contrivance popularized by Empress Eugenie – the Victorian era hoopskirt!

Hoopskirt - Types of artficial skirt support with varying shapes, forms and names (such as farthingale, bumroll, pannier, crinoline, cage crinoline, hoopskirt, bustle, etc.) were popular during the majority of the period from 1530-1890. The horizontal volume they created fell out of favor during the Regency Era (circa 1795-1825) with its emphasis on classical simplicity and vertical lines but then began a resurgence through the use of multiple petticoats and “crinolines”.

During our era in question actual hoopskirts (often still called “crinolines”) reappeared in the 1850s as a dominant fashion trend. They began fairly even all around in a dome or bell shape (very much like the 1720s variety) but then gradually flared out a little more toward the rear in the mid 1860s for an elliptical effect. Some ladies wore “cage crinolines” of hooped steel wires connected by linen strips. Others wore the classic hoopskirt (a skirt with hoops sewn in) which during this period could range in circumference from a humble 90 inches to a grand but rare 180! The skirt fabric might be cotton or linen and the hoops of wood, cane, steel or whalebone. The purpose was to create a “pedestal” on which a woman’s beauty and charm might be suitably displayed. (This was an era in which chivalry was still alive and ladies were held in high regard!) In 1869-1870 the all-around hoopskirt began to be supplanted by the rear “bustle” which ushered in the mid-Victorian look of the 1870s & 80s. With the late Victorian look of the 1890s such contraptions disappeared and haven’t returned to general fashion since.

Smaller hoopskirts are better for shorter women and informal wear. Larger hoopskirts should only be used if you are quite tall or if you are at least of medium height and attending a formal event.

A hoopskirt with a 90” bottom circumference will suit a woman under 5’5” for day wear or a woman of perhaps 5’5” – 5’9” for casual work wear.

A hoopskirt with a 120” bottom circumference will suit most women for most circumstances. It is by far the most versatile of the common sizes and for the great majority of women it is the best choice if you only intend to own one hoopskirt. A woman of anywhere from 5’5” – 5’9” could easily wear this size for both day and evening wear. If you are under 5”5” don’t go larger than this even for formal wear. If you are over 5”9” use this size for daywear and go larger if you desire for formal events.

A hoopskirt with a 150” bottom circumference can be used for formal wear for any lady of about 5”5” or taller.

A hoopskirt with a 180” bottom circumference is rarely attempted and for good reason. Don’t try it unless A) you are a very, very tall lady, B) the event is ultra-formal , C) the room is quite large and D) you will only be dancing with gentlemen who possess very long arms.

Overskirt - An overskirt was sometimes worn over the hoopskirt and under the dress. The purpose was to keep the “boning” (hoops) of the hoopskirt from showing through the dress. Alternately, the purpose could also be accomplished by sewing flounces onto the outside of the hoopskirt to cover up the curves made by the hoops.

Dress or Gown - The dress could be sewn all together or more likely consist of separate bodice and skirt and was worn over all else. It could be very simple or extremely elegant and typically reached in length to within two to four inches of the ground. Bodices were generally quite form-fitted through the use of darts or gathers and could utilize any of a large number of popular sleeve styles. They were usually cut higher for day wear and lower for evening attire, sometimes even being off-shoulder for the latter. A “bertha” was a fashionable option which consisted of gathered fabric sewn or worn along the neckline. A blouse, possibly along with a vest and/or jacket, could be worn with some outfits as an alternative to the bodice. Skirts could be cut straight or gored, be either pleated or gathered at the waist and could be plain, multi-flounced, scalloped or even split in front as per 18th century style in order to reveal a petticoat underneath. Cotton, wool, linen and silk were all used. The fabric could be a solid, stripe, plaid, print or brocade. Lace and ribbon were extensively utilized for ornamentation. Artificial flowers were common as well.

Shoes - There were various styles, (mostly of leather) both lace up as well as “slip on” with an early elastic gusset.

Accessories - Cameos, brooches, earrings, badges, reticules (small purses) and “Medici” belts were all widely used for fashionable and/or practical adornment. Gloves or mitts (most often of white or off-white color) would be worn to any social function with white gloves of cloth or kidskin being considered necessary for formal dancing.

Hats and Bonnets - Hats and bonnets of various styles were commonly worn. Bonnets could be made entirely of fabric or be based on forms of wooden or whalebone slats. Hats were often made from wool felt sewn over a stiffener such as buckram. Both hats and bonnets could be plain or richly adorned with ribbon, fabric, flowers, feathers, cockades or just about anything which tasteful creativity might suggest.

Hair - Most women parted their hair in the center. Most women didn’t wear bangs. Some women wore their hair in two coils, one on each side of the head. Some women wore their hair pulled back in a bun. Some women let their hair hang long in back or on each side. Some women wore “sausage” or “Grecian” curls. Some women wore braids. You’ll notice that I’ve used words like “most” and “some” but not “all” or “none”. Look through photos and paintings of the era and you will find great variety in women’s hairstyles. Let us notice also that hairpieces began a steep rise in popularity during this era, eventually culminating in the huge demand for such of the 1870s and 1880s.

Note: This article is the copyrighted property of the author amd may not be copied or reproduced in part or in whole except by expression written permission.