5/18

11:00 AM - The description from the AAA guidebook to Hawaii appears innocent enough – "the summit of Mauna Loa can be reached by an 18 mile one-way hike." Later on it also warns that "this is a strenuous climb and that climbers should be prepared for the worst". As we pull into the National Park Headquarters in Volcano National Park on the big island of Hawaii, we both think that although 18 miles is a long way, it might be possible to do this climb in 2 days.

11:30 AM - The ranger at the front desk brings us back to earth when he tells us the realities of the trail. This is no walk in the park – 18 miles each way of rough lava, sun and wind exposure, guaranteed rain and potentially freezing temperatures at higher elevations. Plus the one factor that East Coast residents almost never think about – altitude sickness. So as we head back to our hotel in Hilo, we debate what to do.

5/19

9:00 AM - We wake up and look at our equipment. It is quite apparent that my army duffel bag and Steve’s school backpack are inadequate for the hike. Fortunately, there’s an army surplus store in Hilo – we buy framed backpacks, raingear and iodine tablets. After a quick stop in a local supermarket to buy food and other essentials we depart for the park.

1:00 PM - We register with the ranger and after a safety briefing we head up the Mauna Loa strip road to the parking lot at the base of the trail. Mauna Loa is a shield volcano – measured from its base at the bottom of the ocean it’s actually 31,000 ft. high – taller than Mt. Everest. Fortunately for mountain-climbing air breathing land mammals its "only" 13,677 ft. above sea level. The visitors center at the National Park is approximately at an elevation of 4000 ft. The strip road takes you to around 6600 ft. where you leave the comfort of your car and start the long trek up the mountain.

2:30 PM - Our packs are loaded and we head up the trail. The weather is perfect for hiking – temperature in the 60’s, a slight breeze and a nice cloud cover shielding us from the sun. The goal for the day is to reach Red Hill Cabin located about 7 miles up at 10,035 ft. The lower part of the trail is very lush with all sorts of plant life. Within a few minutes you pass the goat gate – a wire fence meant to protect the upslope area of Mauna Loa from feral goats.

3:45 PM - Stop for our first break. The terrain has quickly changed to the lava flows that characterize the mountain but there is still plenty of scrub brush. To the east is a recent lava flow which stands out because of its coal black color. After a 10 minute break we are off again.

4:10 PM - Slightly below the 8000 ft. level we cross paths with a descending climber, Alek. Alek has hiked all the way down from the summit and his exhaustion shows. He is staggering a bit and not a 100% lucid, but there is plenty of time for him to make his car.

4:45 PM - The pleasant weather gives way to a slight drizzle. It is a light rain but annoying enough to force me to don my raingear. By the time we reach 9000 ft. virtually all traces of vegetation have disappeared and the mountain appears as big swaths of red and black.

5:15 PM - I am getting tired but we decide to press on for a few minutes more since the ground is wet. 15 minutes later I again suggest we stop. We agree that after rounding a small red hill in front of us we will rest. By this time visibility is only a few hundred feet as we are in the middle of clouds. As we pass the 10,000 ft. marker we see another marker just up the hill to the right. What we see at that marker is a relieving sight - Red Hill Cabin just a few feet ahead of us.

5:45 PM – We stumble into the cabin. We covered 7 miles in a little over 3 hours – much better than 4-6 the park ranger told us it would take. There is a hiker in the cabin who had hiked up earlier in the day. His name is Craig Miller from Seattle, WA. The cabin is actually quite nice – it is totally enclosed with 5 bunk beds. There are spare blankets and even an extra sleeping bag.

7:00 PM - We chat with Craig for awhile and after a disgusting meal of canned corn beef and Vienna Sausages we settle down for the night. When the sun goes down slightly after 7:00 there is nothing else to do but to crawl in our sleeping bags for a nights sleep.

5/20

6:30 AM – We wake to find that the weather system from yesterday is still with us. It is cold, rainy and windy. Visibility is only a few hundred feet. After a breakfast of applesauce, granola bars and a banana we decide to wait to see if the sun will burn off the clouds we are trapped in. We debate leaving anyway, but the risk of hypothermia outweighs the possibility that we might hike out of the weather system.

9:00 AM - We check outside again and the weather is unchanged so we crawl back in our sleeping bags.

12:15 PM - I awake from a long nap to find the weather persisting. After a somewhat better lunch of Spam and M&Ms we talk about heading back down. Knowing that warm weather, hot meals and beautiful beaches are only a few hours walk away is a very compelling pull but we decide to give it another day.

3:00 PM – With nothing to do I get back in my sleeping bag.

6:00 PM – Wake up again and it is still rainy and cold. Dawdle around for an hour until the sun sets. Unfortunately after sleeping all day I am not particularly tired so I spend about half the night awake staring at the darkness around me. All through the night I hear wind and rain and start to get a little annoyed at wasting a whole day of my vacation in a cabin with no amenities.

5/21

6:00 AM - Awake to find the weather still rainy, but only a light drizzle. We pack up our stuff because we are definitely moving out - either up the mountain or down to the car.

6:30 AM - We see the sun through the clouds and clearing in the distance.

6:50 AM – The sun has burned off the remaing cloud cover. Directly across the valley we can clearly see the observatory’s on Mauna Kea. We saddle up and start out. It is 9.5 miles to trail junction at the end of the Caldera at 13,000 ft. 

8:00 AM - The lava colors along the trail are beautiful. Part of the lower trail goes through a lava tube which looks like a rollerskating half pipe except that it is all black. We pass a sign marking Dewey Cone - a small volcanic cone protruding out of the ground. Off in the distance we see smoke rising from Steaming Cone.

8:30 AM – We stop for a 15 minute break just a little south of Steaming Cone. We estimate the elevation at about 11,700 ft. Steve is feeling a little woozy – possibly from slight altitude sickness. Fortunately it was not enough to make him stop and we press on, soon passing Steaming Cone and reaching the 12,000-ft. marker. The slope of the mountain is fairly gentle but consistenly uphill. Walking over the lava is difficult - the lava crumples under your feet and I frequently scrape my legs. However, the weather is cooperating as we have bright sun all day.

9:30 AM - We pass a water hole – at least that’s what the sign indicates. I can’t see any water and do not feel like climbing down to take a look so we continue on.

10:00 AM - Break number two. We are both pretty tired and taking the packs off is literally a burden off our shoulder. After 15 minutes of sunning we resume hiking for the final push.

11:15 AM - We reach the 13,000 ft. trail junction sign. I can feel a headache coming on – a sign of altitude sickness. Our speech is definitely slurred but we are still in possession of our senses – or what little we had to begin with. At 13,000 ft. there are two options. The 2.5 mile summit trail breaks off the to the east and ascends 677 ft. while the 2.1 mile summit cabin trail descends slightly to the front before rising a few hundred feet to the comfort of an enclosed cabin. Like everybody else we wonder why the cabin is built on the opposite side of the Caldera from the summit.

11:45 AM - We ditch our packs and start off for the summit. Even though we are carrying 30-40 lbs. less the hike to the summit is extremely difficult. The terrain is rough and altitude sickness is definitely affecting us.

1:15 PM - With two rest stops we reach the top. Luckily Steve has regained his senses as I almost walk by the stone cairn at the summit. I might still be walking today given the state I was in. The summit is gorgeous, despite the presence of a few bugs, the first wildlife I had seen since about 9000 ft.. They must survive off the weakened humans whom periodically stop by.

1:30 PM - We sign the logbook and although I probably need a long nap to rest my headache we start our descent to the trail junction. Although we are finally going down hill it is still a struggle.

2:35 PM - We reach the trail junction and I am exhausted. We debate whether to hike the 9.5 miles back to Red Hill or to opt for the easier 2.1 mile walk to the summit cabin – which then means a very long hike down the next day. My main worry is about getting caught in the darkness. The weather is still cooperating, with sunny conditions and temperature in the 50’s.

2:45 PM - We decide to hike down to Red Hill and set out. The way down is a lot more enjoyable as my altitude sickness gradually ebbs and thoughts of a lava flow with a cherry on top (a local drink) keep my spirits up. We make much quicker progess on the way down, hitting landmarks at shorter intervals than on the way up.

6:20 PM – We turn a corner and spot Red Hill. We surprise a new group of nine hikers who now occupy the cabin. We stagger into the cabin, probably smelling like mountain goats. The hikers occupy all but one of the beds, so I roll my sleeping bag out on the floor. I’ve slept in a lot worse places. My legs are sore and the soles of my boots shredded from the lava, but I am very relieved that the next day we only have an "easy" 7 mile jaunt to our car. Unfortunately sleeping that night was a little difficult as we had a few snorers in the cabin, not to mention the noise my cabinmates make when they go for nocturnal bathroom visits. I consider it a bonus that I was only stepped on once.

5/22

6:30 AM - The next morning arrives and the cabin is a busy place with 11 people doing their own thing. I offer my remaining Vienna Sausages and Spam to the hikers but not surprisingly they all politely refuse.

7:10 AM - We depart Red Hill and joyously began our descent to the car. Each elevation marker we pass boosts our spirits.

10:10 AM - With two rest stops we reach the car. Taking off the packs for the last time is a great relief.

12.15 PM – We get a hotel room in Hilo and after a hot shower we watch Indiana beat the Bulls in a very exciting game. That night we treat ourselves to the surf’n turf dinner and drinks at Uncle Bob’s restaurant.

Overall the climb is difficult but well worth it. I don’t know whether I’d do it again – its beautiful but very long and the lava is very difficult to walk over. Its also psychologically difficult knowing you’re in Hawaii, the land of beaches and resorts, when its bleak and rainy where you are. A few lessons for potential climbers that I will share.

1) Be prepared – make sure you have the right equipment. A good pack and effective rain gear are a must.

2) Make sure you’re in shape. Our times are quick because we run everyday and play lots of sports.

3) Bring the right food – Vienna Sausages and Canned Corn Beef are disgusting. Applesauce, Oranges and dehydrated chicken noodle soup are recommended. I didn’t have a small stove but I highly recommend one for cooking soup and tea.

4) Water – make sure you carry enough fluids and drink frequently. Don’t overpack as water weighs a lot. The catch basin at Red Hill was overflowing but it may not always be – check with the park service.

5) Don’t overpack – a pack weighs a lot. Try and bring only what you need .